I'm looking for suggestion on what to do about covering the back wall of the cab on my truck. The section behind the gas tank and below the rear window.. I've seen some do carpeting all the way to the floorboard, some go half way, some with trim. Mine had carpeting. I'm still using the original tank so that takes up space also. Just looking for some creative ideas and recommendations here. Something I can put together myself would be nice.

 

Check out this thread started by fatfenders. excellent work, good ideas.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=332815

 

I saw what fatfenders did before, great job. I don't think I want to go that extensive as he did with stainless, fiberglass, etc. I think what I'm asking here is 1) can fatfenders come over to my house and do the same thing on mine, 2) what would be something I can do. I'm really interested in how to mount the thing to the wall. The one in my truck, the person shoved it up under the window rubber, then on the bottom, put in about 5-6 screws. To say the least it wasn't professional or clean looking. Does the carpet go all the way to the window bottom? I think it would look better with a little gap between it. 3) how do you form the corners of the cab without making crimp?

 

Lower

Got a PIC of your backwall? I’m unfamiliar with the 56 layout. Good auto carpet is limited in it’s ability to make a sharp bend, If your Wal-Mart is as good as mine, they have pretend carpet by their auto floormats. It will make a 90 degree bend. Under ten bucks a roll. Don’t quote me but I think a roll is 72x48. We won’t tell anybody if you have to seam it. It applies with regular indoor-outdoor carpet glue. I’ll give you the application particulars if you go that way. Interior fabric won’t be a good option if you have any sharp edges to deal with. It will tear and not have a good appearance.

 

Fatfenders- I really like your ideas of gluing it on. Or even fastening it with some small stainless screws. Here's a picture (it's not a great shot.). What do you think about some type of trim on the top edge? Any ideas? I'll check for carpets tomorrow. Let me know what you think.
Ed/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=67242&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=67241&width=0

 

Well, on my 53 I used regular upholstery cardboard. It comes in a few different colors,[like stock stuff]. It bends to just about any curve, and you could stick carpet to that if you wanted to.

 

Hey Ed, on the question of how high do you cover: My Rod Doors kit goes all the way to the rubber. The rubber is used to hold the edge underneth. This makes for a nice clean look.

How about using that special hardened backboard material that Dewayne used and covering it in upholstery material. The good stuff is $25 yard, but I'm sure that you can find some other at Walmart, material shops etc. that is not so pricey. If you construct one solid piece for the bulk of the back that is stepped it could go all the way from your carpeted floor t the bottom of the rear window. Then you would need to make two curved pieces to mount in the corners. Rod Doors' design has the corner pieces interlocking with the large piece. They accomplish this by having the mating edge of the curve part have a groove for the leading edge of the back to slip into.

===================== top view
))
================================================== ====

If this makes sense. Good luck, John

 

I think I'm going to locate that board material. I really need something flexible and I think that will work. Actually, I could probably make new kick panels while I'm at it. I'll have to experiment. At least I have an idea of which way to go with this one. Thanks all.
Ed

 

Sorry Ed, the post shifted after I completed it. I was trying to draw a double wall:



================ top view
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) )=====
================================================== ========

Let me try that again. John

The ")" is the back panel and
the "=" is the side panel.

 

I took Fatfenders advice and went to Wal Mart. I found the carpet kit and the color I needed (black). The carpet actually looks pretty good. It was $7.87 and is 36"X72". Great deal! I wouldn't recommend doing the floor but for kit panels and the back wall, this stuff is great and easy to work with. I'm looking for back board now, was even thinking about using a type of plastic material which is thick enough to support yet bends easily without creasing etc. I could still use my board that was on it but since I'm going through all this, I think I'll go with replacing mine, it's warped beyond in a few spots.

 

Lower

I think you'll be good with the Wal-Mart rug. I use it to cover subwoofer enclosures, the AMP board in my 53 etc. I used indoor outdoor glue. It's cheap. You're early enough in to the interior thing to buy a gallon. It keeps pretty good. Buy one of the disposable plastic applicators for a buck. Use it a couple times if you clean it up just a bit with a little thinner. Trick to the glue is to let it dry for a bit so you don't get any soak through. Don't rush, working time is long, and it doesn't completely dry for a very long time. Don't try to just use screws. Carpet needs adhesive when you go vertical.

I'd buy the panelboard if you can get it without being violated. 1/8 tempered hardboard would work too but it's more work when you get to the corners. Another option is to just skip the corners for now if you need to summon the energy. The carpet will wrap around and look decent even with nothing behind it in the corners. I guess my upper trim strip isn't showing in my PICs. I did use trim, but I tucked my carpet under the rubber window seal. It lays nice in there as John says, even with out trim.

John

Did I hear you say the good upholstery fabric is $25. Even the cheezy stuff I used was about $30. You ever price leather? $75 a yard last I looked.

 

I think you are right Dewayne. I got a good deal on mine direct from my upholstery guy. Also, that was almost 2 years ago. $30-35 is prob more realistic.

Just a thought on the 1/8" material for the corners. To make it bend easier, what if you scored the hardboard all the way across the back with a box cutter in vertical lines about 1 inch apart. I have seen carpenters do this to make a piece of wood flex the way they want to. Good luck, John

PS: Thanks for coming up with the idea of the hardboard NOW Dewayne! Where were you two years ago when I was ordering all that Rod Doors stuff? Oh well, it's just money.

 

John,

I won't say it can't be done, but I gave up trying to make the curve with tempered hardboard. I was very clear why I didn't Rod Doors. It's completely audio related. Rod Doors will save you a load of time. Only knock I really have on Rod Doors is the stuff is so popular, that it is cookie cutter-vanilla interior. You need to mold a design in to be original.

 

Thanks for the great advice again. As for the glue or adhesive, Walmart has a can of 3M upholstery adhesive which is a spray can. I've used it before for headliners and it won't bleed through and adheres pretty good.
As for the board? I noticed on mine(whoever did it before), the cut the board to fit the wall, then they sectioned it by cutting the board and actually sewing a piece of vinyl to the cut so that it flexs. Kinda of ingenius but seems like a lot of work. I'm going to check with the upholsterer who did my seat and see if he can get me some board or maybe recommend something else. By the way, I ordered that carpet kit and it's suppose to be here on Thursday. I'll let you guys know on a post how good this kit is, pros and cons.
Ed.

 

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Do you know what the number is on the 3M glue? Not to sound like Mr Know-it-all, but there are only a few spray glues I would use for carpet. And what happens if you don't mind me and use it anyway? It will fall off and you can use something stronger later. 3M 90 or 8090 might do the trick. I wouldn't use 8088 or 77. 3M makes 43 other models #s as well. Good luck.