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Dana 60 pinion angle (front)
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2002
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You could drill the housing and install grease zerks on the pinion bearing I have seen a few done like that after they lost the pinion bearings more than once, if you use a slinger on the front the only time it would hit the pinion would be when your in reverse.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
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Unless you drive around with them locked in all the time I wouldn't worry about it. Mine is tipped 7 deg from stock & I don't even have the oil retainer on the drive pinion anymore. I would drill out the oil breather adapter as much as possible if you are going to over fill it.
Last edited by mark a.; Jan 25, 2005 at 07:04 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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Ivan, I've been thinking about your project, I don't think you'll have much of an oiling issue, the housing is already designed for the ring gear to push the oil up to the pinion bearing, so turning up a bit should not effect it much, the ring gear will still sling the oil up to the bearing any time it is traveling forward,
another thing, when you cut your C's loose and rotate them you will still have to shim the spring pad on the housing to rotate the pinion, correct? if so what if you just rotate the housing itself, then you only have to shim one side, also I think rotating the housing might be a little easier than tunring the C's,
another thing, when you cut your C's loose and rotate them you will still have to shim the spring pad on the housing to rotate the pinion, correct? if so what if you just rotate the housing itself, then you only have to shim one side, also I think rotating the housing might be a little easier than tunring the C's,
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Joined: Sep 2002
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Originally Posted by Skipped_link
Ivan, I've been thinking about your project, I don't think you'll have much of an oiling issue, the housing is already designed for the ring gear to push the oil up to the pinion bearing, so turning up a bit should not effect it much, the ring gear will still sling the oil up to the bearing any time it is traveling forward,
another thing, when you cut your C's loose and rotate them you will still have to shim the spring pad on the housing to rotate the pinion, correct? if so what if you just rotate the housing itself, then you only have to shim one side, also I think rotating the housing might be a little easier than tunring the C's,
another thing, when you cut your C's loose and rotate them you will still have to shim the spring pad on the housing to rotate the pinion, correct? if so what if you just rotate the housing itself, then you only have to shim one side, also I think rotating the housing might be a little easier than tunring the C's,
In a rear it would sling it up to the pinion but in the front how does the ring gear sling oil up to the pinion bearing when going forward? Wouldnt it sling it up and forward not up and back? And I disagree on turning the centersection the axle would have to be completely disassembled then you would have to drill out the plug welds and press the tubes out of the centersection. The Cs can be done on the truck with a grinder,a welder and a sledgehammer.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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The high pinion D60 has different oil passages than the standard D60 rear diff that allow the oil to flow up to the pinion bearing before it is sling forward,
As far as changing the pinion angle no matter how you do it, your in for a lot of work, I have disassembled a HP D60 and it was no easy task, I would say there is approx. .004-.005" press fit between the axle tubes & housing, and just as much or more at the C's, I would be willing to bet no matter how you do it the front diff will have to be disassembled & possibly removed, if you do decide to mess with the plug welds on the housingm just remember that the HP D60 center section is cast iron and the plug welds were done with nickle rod, (very hard), I used an air arc to cut the welds out when I took mine apart,
As far as changing the pinion angle no matter how you do it, your in for a lot of work, I have disassembled a HP D60 and it was no easy task, I would say there is approx. .004-.005" press fit between the axle tubes & housing, and just as much or more at the C's, I would be willing to bet no matter how you do it the front diff will have to be disassembled & possibly removed, if you do decide to mess with the plug welds on the housingm just remember that the HP D60 center section is cast iron and the plug welds were done with nickle rod, (very hard), I used an air arc to cut the welds out when I took mine apart,
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
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From: Senoia, GA
Originally Posted by Skipped_link
another thing, when you cut your C's loose and rotate them you will still have to shim the spring pad on the housing to rotate the pinion, correct?
-cutts-
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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Originally Posted by fishmanndotcom
you know thats true! why don't you just cut the spring pads off and rotate them around the tube where you want it to get the pinion angle desired? then if you feel you need to rotate the C's for correct caster/camber alignment you can still do that!
-cutts-
-cutts-
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by Skipped_link
Remember the left spring pad is cast into the center section, there fore you can't cut that one off, it will have to be shimmed to change the pinion angle,
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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What about cutting the pass side springpad off and reposition it and for the drivers side you could carefully bevel down the rear of the pad with a grinder- or even pull the housing and have a machine shop mill it to the proper angle?????
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by ivanribic
Ditto! So my plan is to shim both pads until I reach the proper angle, and then determine how much I need to turn the knuckles to get my proper caster back. I will be turning the C's. It's far less labor intensive than turning the tubes in the housing. I'll take pics of it as I go . . . hopefully I can get to it next week. Jesse is right in that the C's can sometimes be turned without pulling the axle off the truck. Still, not a job I'm looking forward to.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
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From: Senoia, GA
Originally Posted by bremen242
You do realize a set of rockwells will fix all your problems?
dad- "son why haven't you been doing good in skool?"
son- "i dunno i am just having a hard time"
dad- "well here ya go son here's a couple of rockwells to put under your bicycle"
son- "wow dad thanks a bunch"
1 week later
son- "dad dad dad....lookie at my report card, all A's"
dad- "wow son I am so proud of you"
dad thinking to himself- "DAMN I am glad i got that kid some rockies, I wish i had them back when I was a kid!"
-cutts-
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2004
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hey i had the same prob with mine with 20 '' lift it ended up at like 40 deg . I left the pinion at stock angle and the same wuth the t-case and got a drive shaft made from arizona drivelines called the bad boy 80deg cv it has double cv on both ends and a long slip yoke with flanges at axle and t-case . It was very $$$ but what the heck its not locked in all the time and figgure i will never need another one . oh btw it is now where near maxed out on mine and like i said im at like 40deg .