Brian: Have some scans to send you but unsure how to do it on here....can you email me at k7ais at msn ? I spread it out because the list won't allow addys for some reason; hope I'm not breaking any laws here.....

Thanks,
BJ

 

Brian, the Haynes I'm working from is FORD Pick-ups and Bronco 1980-1896. Serial number 36058 (880). Mine has a red cover, although they might change covers from one printing run to the next.

The step-through I mentioned is a table on page 4-18 titled General EEC-IV Power and Ground Checks. The legend says to see illustration 15.5 to for a diagram of the pinhole layout, but the photo captioned 15.5 has nothing to do with it! Instead you want to see illustration 5.57 on page 6-8 for this layout. (Hopefully this little tidbit saves you some frustration! This isn't a bad aftermarket manual, but it certainly isn't perfect, either.)

If you ever decide to convert to Duraspark II to eliminate the computer entirely, there is a side-by-side comparison illustration set of the two systems on facing pages 5-2 and 5-3. I thought that was a pretty interesting thing for the author/editor to do because such conversion is never mentioned in the text. One of those deals where we didn't condone that idea... but here is a helpful reference for you just in case you got that idea from somewhere else.

The "easy way out" would mean changing the distributor, ignition module, coil, and finding the harness intact at the wrecking yard. One splice between the ignition switch and the module and the rest should be plug and play. I think you would have to swap carbs, too, but I'm not sure. I'm not sure that all is any easier or any more cost effective. I also wonder what the emissions test station would say. It would only affect me if the truck doesn't pass the tailpipe. I wouldn't qualify for a repair cost ceiling waiver until I put it all back to factory original for the model year. I can see why a lot of guys want to do the conversion, though. Duraspark II is much simpler and more forgiving in terms of engine and intake mods. If you were looking to go to a 2v or 4v carb, etc. converting to Duraspark is pretty much a prerequisite. It would also be simpler and cheaper to repair in the future. DII modules cost less than TFI modules and less prone to failure, from what I've read. And since the computer would be eliminated, you would never have to replace it again. If I wanted to tweek and mod to any extent I'd probably start with a pre 1980 truck. (Emission testing is only required on vehicles built in the last 25 years where I live.)

You're getting there, Brian. I think when you get this problem licked you'll have that reliable truck. Like I said about mine, once I got it right, the only thing I've done in the 17 months since is change the oil and put the air pump system back on (removed by the previous owner ) to pass emissions.

Peter

 

1986 Ford Shop Manual
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=34221

or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=34221

Found these on eBay. Im not the seller and I don't know the seller.

 

BrianBJ: THanks for the scanned schematics. They are awesome!!

Castman: Thanks. I ended up buying a Haynes. I couldn't take the chiltons anymore and it was short $. Its good but Big difference w/ factory manual schematics that Brian sent me.
And I hope so too re: reliable truck.


Jay: I couldn't get anywhere w/ links but did a ebay search again...amazing what a week will do and saw some mid-80's ford manuals...I take it that is what you meant?

Eitherway the ones there are too much $ imo....well, considering what my truck is

WEll, I just got a call the rebuilt EEC is in...I want to do one more check of the power relay using Brian's prints to be triple sure and then install the EEC...will I be finally there??

straight6_nh

 

Let us know how it goes.....

Brian BJ

 

OK FINALLY, I get to post the outcome...I've been out of town parts of the last 2 weekends and with everything else this has taken longer than I wanted. I also didn't want to continue to bother folks until I had a definitive answer.

So, it wasn't the computer or the EEC relay and I got initially *fooled* into thinking the relay wasn't it so I moved on to other things and I could go on with a long list but the short answer is:
It was a short in the wiring harness somewhere between the battery and the relay...potentially a fusible link which is shown on the schematics Brian BJ sent be (THANKS AGAIN) but I don't have any idea where it is and at this point don't care to go look for it so I made up a jumper from the fuse block to the relay.

Turn the key on you here the relay click. Start the truck get out the timing light and we've got advance!! Yippee!! I won't say its completely "fixed" yet until I give it the couple longer trips test.

So I'd like to thank everyone who gave ideas esp: Brian BJ, Castman, Sail2244, nm5k, and tmcalavy.

Thanks again,
Brian

 

YES!! (high-5 here)......You're almost there...you could even slip an in-line fuse into that jumper, at least until warmer weather gets here. You can now probably pull codes after one of your trips to give an idea of how things are. My thoughts have been with you these past couple of weeks, wondering how things were going. Really glad we could help......I'm learning also.

Brian BJ

 

I had the same symptoms. Try taking the vac line off the EGR and put a screw in it.

I had the same problems diag problems on my 85. I had 90k on it then. I did the head, got a non feed back YFA, and installed the Duraspark ignition. It ran BETER than new and got 18MPG highway. Emissions may be a problem for you though. I used to just disco the speedo cable at times to keep the milage below 5k a yr. But this is just a hobby truck now.