I took my '98 Mazda B4000 by the Autozone today to have the codes read because I had been experiencing that flashing OD light along with the rough shifting intermittantly during the last few months. Searching through this forum, there seems to be a few more that's had this problem but I haven't seen anyone posting the fix. If there is a sensor replacement that I could handle on the outside of the trans, that would be nice. ;-)

The scanner revealed the P1740 code today and I found that there is a TSB on this problem (TSB# 0500399R) from Alldata.com. I don't know the text of the TSB (too cheap to pay for it) but, I was wondering, what are dealers responsibilities in concerns to these reports? I know that they are not "recalls" but do they still charge the normal arm/leg pricing to correct these problems?

Thanks,
Sonny

 

The vehilce speed sensor is the common fix, located on top of the rear, one bolt and one electrical connctor, 15 minutes.

 

Heres the TSB I think your talking about....

Printable View (19 KB)
Article No.
99-8-6 LAMP - O/D TRANSMISSION LAMP FLASHING - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0741 AND/OR P1740 - VEHICLES BUILT FROM 10/1/1997 THROUGH 1/31/1998
TRANSMISSION - 4R44E OR 5R55E - O/D LAMP FLASHING WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0741 AND/OR P1740 - VEHICLES BUILT FROM 10/1/1997 THROUGH 1/31/1998

Publication Date: APRIL 20, 1999

LIGHT TRUCK: 1998 EXPLORER, MOUNTAINEER, RANGER


ISSUE:
A flashing Overdrive (O/D) light with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0741 and/or P1740 may be evident. Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid lot numbers 769 and 771 may have damaged crimping points on the pintle. This allows the disc to move, causing the TCC solenoid to malfunction.

ACTION:
Perform normal diagnostics and inspect the TCC solenoid for lot number 769 or 771, broken crimping points, movement of the pintle and/or a broken TCC solenoid bracket. If any of these concerns are present, replace the TCC solenoid. New parts outside of lot number 769 or 771 do not have the crimping point damage concern. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Some vehicles may exhibit an O/D light flashing with DTC P0741 and/or P1740.

Perform normal diagnostics.
If the O/D light is flashing and DTC P0741 and/or P1740 is present, remove and inspect the TCC solenoid.
Inspect the following areas (refer to Figure 1 ):
Crimping points broken.
TCC solenoid bracket broken.
Lot numbers 769 or 771 present.
Pintle may be moved in and out.
If any of the above concern areas are present, replace the TCC solenoid.
Erase the DTCs and verify the repair.
NOTE: RETURN AFFECTED LOT NUMBERS 769 AND 771 THROUGH THE WARRANTY SYSTEM. PLEASE FILL OUT THE WARRANTY TAG WITH THE CONCERN AND TRANSMISSION TAG INFORMATION.




PART NUMBER PART NAME
F77Z-7G136-AA Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid


OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
NONE

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage

 

TSB repairs are free only when they are covered under warranty.

That being said, I find it very interesting that the TSB indicates that the repair is "Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage".

This would indicate to me that it might be considered a powertrain control issue which affects emissions enough to make that kind of coverage applicable. In this regard, the Federal Emissions Warranty for the powertrain control module (PCM) is 8 years:

If it were me and my truck had under 80K on it, I'd bring this point to the attention of the Service Manager and try and make the argument that the repair should be at no cost because it covered by the above-referenced law. After all, it says so right in the TSB, right? Worth a shot, IMO.

 

Whoa!....thanks for all the info! Ken00 and Rockledge, you are some informed dudes!

I should be able to get something done with all the ammo you supplied me with. First, I think I'll check on the part price and do it myself if it reasonable. Otherwise, it's off to a dealer since my truck only has about 56k on it.

While we're on the subject of TSBs...do you happen to know the particulars of this one?
"TSB# 0901604 MAY 04 Windows - Power Side Windows Chattering or Binding"

I've got that problem too. Anyway, many thanks for taking the time to reply in such depth.

Sonny

 

Pay the $25.
Then just $14 for your other vehicles.
Alldata has a lot more then just TSBs. I don't bother buying shop manuals for my cars/trucks anymore.
Unless you have a Honda.. they won't let alldata display their TSBs and shop manuals. I think that they have made a clear statement to me with that choice and I will never buy a Honda untill they change that. (sorry for the rant)

D

 

Printable View (14 KB)
Article No.
01-4-6 BODY - POWER WINDOW - CHATTER OR BINDING WHEN OPERATING POWER SIDE WINDOWS - VEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 2/1/2001
ELECTRICAL - POWER WINDOW - CHATTER OR BINDING WHEN OPERATING POWER SIDE WINDOWS - VEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 2/1/2001

Publication Date: FEBRUARY 20, 2001

FORD: 1993-2001 RANGER


ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit a chatter or binding condition when operating the power side window(s) either in the down or up mode. This may be caused by a window channel guide that is out of adjustment or dirt or debris trapped in the window guide.

ACTION:
Clean or replace window guide and apply service grease (Krytox) to glass guide assembly for ease of window guide operation. Check window guide channel adjustment and if necessary, adjust. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Remove door trim panel (left or right) as necessary.
Clean window channel guide(s) with a damp cloth (water) to remove any dirt or debris.
NOTE: IF WINDOW CHANNEL GUIDE COATING (COLORED BLACK) SHOWS SIGNS OF WEAR/SCRATCHES OR DAMAGE AFTER CLEANING, REMOVE EXISTING WINDOW CHANNEL GUIDE(S) AND REPLACE WITH CURRENT SERVICE WINDOW CHANNEL GUIDE XL5Z-1023288-AA LEFT AND/OR RIGHT ACCORDINGLY. WHEN INSTALLING NEW WINDOW CHANNEL GUIDE(S), HAND TIGHTEN TOP AND BOTTOM NUTS AND PROCEED TO STEP 4.



Loosen both top and bottom nuts on the window guide (left and/or right) ( Figure 1 ).
Apply a thin coating of service grease (Krytox) (Rotunda part number 164-R4906) to the entire outer surface area of the window channel guide(s) ( Figure 1 ).
Raise window(s) all the way to the up position.
Tighten top nut 12 ±2 N-m (106 ±17 lb-in) on the window channel guide.
Lower window(s) all the way to the down position.
Tighten lower nut 12 ±2 N-m (106 ±17 lb-in) on the window channel guide(s).
Cycle the glass up and down several times to work lube onto guide(s) and into position evenly.
Verify chatter is corrected.
NOTE: IF SLIGHT CHATTER OR BINDING IS STILL APPARENT, READJUST TOP NUT ON THE WINDOW CHANNEL GUIDE FORE/AFT WITHIN SHEET METAL DOOR HOLE TO CORRECT (ONLY IF REQUIRED).

 

My O/D started flashing last night and then went off, then started flashing again.

Few miles later Check Engine light illuminated.

Auto Zone pulled code for me and it was P1740 "Manufacturer Controlled Transmission"

Tranny seems to be shifting perfect. I notice no problems whatsoever.

I have every intention of getting this fixed, but I have a trip next Friday that I can't miss (job interview).

My question is, can I drive? Will it cause damage or is it that I will only suffer fuel economy?

 

On the window chatter thing, I had the same problem on my 99 Ranger passenger side windw last year.

I lowered the window all the way & liberaly sprayed the track on both sides, top to bottom, with "Prestone" silicone spray, giving it enough time to wet & run all the way down the track to the lowered window, then ran it up & down several times to wet the edges of the glass that run in the guides.

Problem solved, this was last spring, so it's lasted a year so far.

Beats the heck out of taking the door apart & using that expensive "Krytox" grease.

We used this stuff to lube Night Vision Goggles 25 years ago & I wasn't impressed with it's staying power.

It will loose about 40% of it's weight if left in an open container for 72 hours.

It's just a very expensive, aerospace, heavily PTFE loaded lubricant.

I have had good results, mixing it 50/50, with "Super Lube" grease though.

The super lube grease can take the heat & it's base doesn't evaporate like the Krytox does, but the SuperLube isn't as heavily loaded with PTFE as the Krytox, so the two complement & mix with each other very well.

This mix, lightly buttered on, will lube up your firearms & fishing gear, really well & last a long time too.

Even through hundreds of rounds in a simi-auto weapon & not break down, gum up, carbon up. or otherwise foul up the works, then just wipe clean, when you're finished.

I've put M-4's AR-15's, SR-25's & others through a brick of ammo,(1000 rounds) in one afternoon & not have one hang fire, then have the weapon's innards just wipe clean!!!! Couldn't do that with any other lube I'd tried.

SO, if your still of a mind to take the door apart & lube the channel as outlined in the TSB, I'd consider mixing the Krytox & SuperLube grease 50/50 & lube things up, will likely last longer than the Krytox alone. IMHO

But if it were me, I'd try the Prestone Silicone spray first, or maybe even the SuperLube spray, as it too is PTFE loaded.

Just some expierece & thoughts for consideration.

Let us know what you do & how it works.