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I would appriciate any help offered. I have a 68 f250 camper special with 2 gas tanks. There is a valve under the drivers seat to change between the two tanks. Two questions...
First: only one of the tanks reads on the guage (the tank in the bed). Is it possible to get both tanks to read off the origional guage or do I need to mount a second.
Second: the valve under the drivers seat to change between the two tanks spins 360 degrees. How do I tell which tank I am on? and do I need to change out that valve?
Any help would be appriciated because I have to drive from Idaho to Washinton and want to get this figured out before I do that. My big question is will it take long to fix these things? Thanks
trainerbu, welcome to the forum. I have a 68 SC with two saddle tanks plus the cab tank. There are valves for two and three tanks, they are different. I'm in the process of locating and installing floats in both tanks and adding a switch for the dash gauge. Was told Ford had 40 to 240 ohms resistance from full to empty on the dash gauge. Ford dealer mechanics are retired or dead that worked on these old trucks. Opposite the fuel valve lever is a small pointer to which tank you want to pull from. Help is just starting, hang in.
My 67 CS has the valve beside the driver door, I turn it from 12:00 to 6:00 o clock to switch the tanks, then I flip the switch on the dash to see the fuel level.
When I get to 190-205 miles I switch tanks unless I forget and die in traffic. Yes the *******s honk as i'm cranking until the carb gets gas. On the highway I have a four second "dead zone" before the carb gets gas, bad when pulling a grade. I have two 17.6 burn off gallon tanks outside the frame rails, 18.7 main. I hate to stop when on a mission for fuel. Remember the Pintos and Chebby trucks a few years ago? "BOOM"
Do you think a Ford dealer would be able to put in a float, guage, and possibly a toggle switch in the dash in 2 days. I fly in to idaho and will be there for 2 days then I must begin the journey to Washington. Thank you for all of the advice.
I would be surprised if they knew what a old pickup was besides parts. Short answer, NO. Anything beyond 5 years, plastic is is a antique to them, no money profit to them. Sit still and do some research, you'll be better off. The answers are out there.
If it is stock there is a switch on the dash that will change the gas guage between the two tanks. On mine, I changed out the old valve for an electric one, and run it off the same switch.
It is not a big problem if you do not get it fixed - just run the tank that does not have a gauge dry first, and fuel before you hit 1/4 tank on the other.
If the time it takes to change tanks and get gas back up to your engine bothers you, put an electric fuel pump in the main gas line and run it from a push button on the dash - works like a "prime" button on the big trucks.
My stock set up holds 40 + gallons - and, frankly, I do not have the kidneys enough to run both tanks dry.
I don't have the switch on the dash... only one of the tanks reads. I just have to figure out the positioning of the valve so I know I am on one of the tanks for sure, and I will feel much better. Thank you guys for all of your help.
On mine, the pointer of the gas valve points eather towards the seat, or towards the back. When it is pointing towards the back, I am on the back tank; when pointed towards the seat, I am on the tank behind the seat.
It is also possible to only half open the valve, or even turn all gas off.
In my dealings with fuel selector valves, it has been a hit and miss deal. You should hear or feel click at each 90 degree turn. From then on it is just knowning which way your valve is pointed to know which tank your on, my last one was marked on the floor when I got it.
As for fuel sender readings. The fuel sender unit on fords, [the variable resister in the gas tank] is 8 to 12 ohms of resistance at full and 60 to 86 at empty. After market fuel sending units [78 to 10 ohms]are available at numerous locations, mail order too.
J.C. Whitney sells a fuel sending unit for $17.00, if your non -gauged tank doesn't already have a sending unit hole cut in it, it will be a pain, not to mention a safety hazard due explosion possibilities cutting one in. A s.p.d.t switch mounted somewhere usually on dash and a simple wiring job is all that is nessary for hook up. If you decide to do this modification make sure your new sending unit is grounded.
By the way Steward-Warner gauges are 240 to 33 ohms G.M s are 0 to 90 ohms.
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