Besides the usual mods like restrictors in the heads, drilling out the pump to filter pad passage to 7/16, chamfering the main bearing oil holes to better line up with the hole in the bearing, running a high volume pump and heavy duty ARP pump driveshaft, is there anything else that we can do to help a top oiler FE? Has anyone ever painted the inside of the block and heads? What kind of special paint does that take and where do you get it? Wouldn't it help to enlarge the drainbacks in the heads? I do have a windage tray and when the motor comes back out for some performance mods (cam, beef the valvetrain, oil pump etc.) I want to trim the tray so that I only have to use one gasket for the pan, then somehow secure it to the inside of the pan. I bought a pan off of E-bay that was a regular pickup-truck pan that had the sump modified so that the pan could hold more oil. I need to get a digital camera from someone so that I can show it to you guys and see what you think. It is supposed to hold 8 quarts but I haven't checked that yet and may just end up to doing some mods to an FT pan and using it instead. What do ya guys think?

 

Glyptal is the inside the block paint your thinking of and Eastwood sells it. $22 per qt brush on. GM used it for years inside their blocks. You must prep the block correctly or it will flake off and clog in the oil passages. Some swear by it and I've used it before but can't tell if it really did anything. You can enlarge the head drainbacks but never done this myself. A guy I met on another forum has done this to avoid using the head restrictors and is supposed to send me pics and details of his. Also check if your oil filter adapter has the later style large CJ C8 style ports. If you have an early C0 adapter you can drill the holes to 1/2" and dremel the rest like the later C8 adapters. I've done several this way and saved the $$$ by doing so. G.

 

the paint if it is not completly oil free will bubble and flake off just do the drain back mods and restriction mods