HELLO ALL!

Recently added long tube headers w/o any EGR connections on them. Is there a way to do away with all the EGR components instead of cutting/drilling the headers AND still have a decent running engine? Right now the EGR is plugged and it runs like poo, hesitates on acceleration kinda like the timings off. Any suggestions?

'94 351w 5.8 Fi

 

If you pull codes you will see that the computer is confused as to mixture, etc. Refer to emissions questions in that forum and you'll see what is going on very easily.
Tex

 

Thanks man!

 

I plugged mine and it runs great. You have to get rid of the converter or it will plug up quick and make your truck run like "poo". IMO, less crap to break and emission components that are old are inefficient anyway. What brand are your long tubes? My bbk shorties fell apart and I had to put the stockers back on. If I buy headers they will be long tubes. All I need is a O2 bung, heck even if it does'nt come with one, i'll weld one on.

 

Mike, you mean the catalytic converter?

 

Oh ya, don't know about the brand. I had them in the attic for the longest time, got them off of ebay. Should I have to make any other adjustments, like intake???

 

Yes. I don't know of any adjustments to the intake you would need to make, except for pluging up the EGR valve that's bolted on the intake. I have yet to make a block off plate. This is considering you already pulled off the air pump (and got a shorter belt) and plugged or removed the vacuum lines that are no longer needed. You would also have to take the small exhaust cross over pipe (the one that runs from the back of the heads to the catalytic converter) off and cut the tube off and turn the end blocks backwards and screw them back in the back of the head (I used a little bit of silicon sealer as well). Now it will be much easier to change plugs, access the headers and it really cleans up the engine bay. I just have to figure out a way to shut the check engine light off (for good).

 

Does your truck use a mass air flow meter (in the air intake plumbing before the throttle body) or a MAP sensor (usually mounted on the firewall. a hard vacuum line is usually run directly from intake to MAP sensor, with a three or so wire connector. about the size of a pack of cig's.)? Not familiar enough with this year model. I've got an 89 bronco 5.8 that had egr plugged when I got it. I've made some mods you might be interested in, but mine is a MAP sensor type. If Mass air flow type, they would be useless at worst.

 

I have removed all of the emissions equipement and installed high flow cats. I disabled the EGR and Thermactor functions with the tuning software I use without any problems...a chip of some kind will also help to do the same.

 

I have one of those cig. boxes on the left near the a/c-heater blower housing, is this what you're talking about?

 

More than likely. This is your MAP sensor. Tells me you've got a speed density system. I've got a bronco 5.8 with headers, like you wrote. Mine had egr valve blocked off when I got it and it ran like crap. The problem is that blocking your egr system makes your system run lean. What I did was this. First, I plugged in the egr position sensor, which I bought from a local parts house. Just pluggin it in shows the system that the egr is in a closed state..always. This is good. Then, I purchased a coolant temp sensor, unplugged the temp sensor in the intake and plugged in the spare. I then cut a small hole in the air intake tube and shoved the coolant temp sensor in there. That tells the computer that your coolant is always at the cool temp of the incomming air. This richens the mixture some. Then, I bought a resistor, which you can order from someone on ebay for $20 or so. They sell them as a "high performance chip". There's no chip to it. Its just a resistor that matches the resistance that your inlet air temp sensor shows when the air is cool outside, I forget the resistance, but if you can't find out yourself, email me at shawn@swenglert.com and I'll get you the value. Just plug that resistor in the connector for the inlet air temp sensor. This makes the computer think its cool outside, richening the mixture. My final outcome? a truck that runs very well. Its a little rough when the motor is really cold, but once it warms up, it runs really well. lots of pep. Just a couple mods you might try.

 

Interesting post from swenglert. I heard the same thing, except the part about resolving the issue. I have a 90 stang/mass air and that has ran great for the last 10 years without egr stuff, except that has a dyno tune with custom autologic chip. The truck is fine too, in fact, I was out hunting on Dec. 19th (4 degress, -19 degrees windchill) and I could start my truck without touching gas pedal and everything was great. This might be due to fact that i'm running a supercharger with stock injectors and an fmu, so I thought if it's going to run a little rich, that would be a good thing (for me). IMO, if you free up the intake, exhaust and advance timing, the little bit of extra gas will keep you from detonation. Every truck is different though.