I'm no tranny expert so bear with me. The 3.8L version of the AX4S is a little beefier than the 3.0L version. But I think they still have the aluminum (vs. steel) forward drum up until '95, no?

And I don't think Xwarrior86 can put an AX4N in his '93 freebie. The electronics are indeed different between it and the AX4S, not only because of the differences in year, but also because of different PCM calibrations.

FWIW, the SHO also used the AX4S from '93-'95 (it's often referred to as the "ATX", as opposed to my 5 speed manual "MTX"). The '93 version of the SHO AX4S is the worst, supposedly it was improved in '94 and again in '95. That's what I've read, anyway. In any case, those SHO owner's who do have the AX4S often do a rebuild with the newest and best materials/components plus a shift kit, along with a custom--burned chip that someone has developed specifically for that application. Additional coolers are installed, as well. The overwhelming consensus of the SHO community is that these upgrades substantially increase both performance and longevity.

 

Rockledge, your SHO is awesome. Are those recent pictures? You can EAT off that engine!

I'll bet you're glad you don't have one of the V8 SHO's.....

 

Thanks for the positive feedback! I'll take my V6 over the V8 any day, but of course I may be a little biased on that. There's only about a 10-15 peak HP difference between the two anyway.

Thing is too, the V8 SHO ('96-'99) never came with a stick, and that is one of the big reasons I bought mine. I don't think I would even own my SHO right now if it didn't have the MTX tranny.

 

Wow. Who knew I had inherited a 3000lb. Paper weight? So if the forward clutch is shot, is that something I can pick up at Autozone or something? Or is that one of those "bend you over a barrel" Ford parts? Also, if I have to change that thing, will I have to pull the tranny or can it be had from the oil pan? I want to know who had the bright idea of putting a cheap, 2 piece cast aluminum part on a 500*, 3000rpm Tranny! I swear I'll kill the Turkey! Thanks guys.

 

I reallly don't think there is any quick fix to this one. Either you roll the dice and go with a used tranny from a boneyard, or you rebuild the original.

If you are thinking about doing things yourself, then you are a far braver soul than I am. However, I do know that a few SHO owners have rebuilt the AX4S out of their ATX models and had good success with it. In fact, I would think that you or anyone else interested in rebuilding an AX4S tranny (or even just having it rebuilt by a 3rd party) might benefit from the following references:

http://hosting.superhighoutput.com/a...andy_trans.txt

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=37080

http://www.transonline.com/transdige...ers/index.html

I would also highly recommend a Ford Factory Workshop Manual be your guide, as well.

Good luck.

 

If the rest of the car is clean and checks out it seems you have two basic choices, IMHO. (check electrical, compression, motor mounts, AC...which is another weak spot if I recall. At least on the earlier ones the AC tubes were under the radiator in the front, and suceptible to parking lot curbs or road debris. AC seals averaged 4-5 years according to one AC guy I talked to.)

Either get junkyard tranny and put fresh fluid and additive in it, with an oil cooler; or spring for a fully upgraded tranny from Ford. If the car is reallly nice and you plan to drive it til it drops, I'd think about the new trans, considering the pain it is to replace. You don't want to have to go in there twice.

My two cents.

Erik

 

Hello again! I think I almost got things squared away on my Taurus. The new problem is that it just wont start. It cranks but just won't come to life. I don't know what the problem is. I basically rebuilt the distributor, new wires, coil, module, stator, everything... Now I'm thinking that it's possibly the fuel pump. I took out one of the injecters to check it and fuel rushed out of the rail. What's up with that. I also changed the fuel filter and made sure there was plenty of fuel. I really don't know... Any guesses?

 

You can force the fuel pump to run by using a jumper wire to ground the Fuel Pump Pin on the EEC Test connector located under the hood.



Just run a jumper wire from any good ground (battery neg. is best) to the FP PIN and the pump should run manually. You should be able to hear it. A fuel pressure check would be the ideal next step.

If fuel checks out OK, then move along and check for spark at each cylinder.

 

Check coil/ignition Fuse in the power Distribution box.It will be one of the tiny fuses,not the larger ones.I think it it a 10vlt.The distribuion box will be located on the driver side up near the windsheild/firewall.Also check the third fuse in from the far end of the box,the end nearest the passenger side of the car,it will be a large one and it blew on mine once.When it goes the car will just shut down instantly,assuming it goes while driving.Let us know what you find.

 

Almost forgot,try the fuelpump shut off switch.I've seen people shut the hatch/trunk on them alittle to hard and activate that safety switch.It will be in the trunk along the fenderwall.Good luck.

 

Hello.I have had 3 Ford Taurus,and 1 Mercury Sable.1 with the 3.0 and the rest with the 3.8.First let me say that you did not get a "Free paper weight"If you list that car on Ebay it will bring you atleast $200.00 so if somebody were to give me $200.00 I'd be pretty happy.Even if you listed it with the bad trans you will get $200.00 at least and if you list it in the parts section it will only cost about $20.00. Next let me say that the trans planted behind the 3.0 seem to be junk,However if you take a close look you will figure out the problems with these cars pretty quick and a Mechanic at the local Ford dealer confirmned it for me,The Cat.Converter is mounted way to close to the tranny pan.I tacked a home made heat sheild in place and that Taurus has 147,000 miles with the stock trans.Yes it had regular fluid changes but it has been run hard at times as well.I also just purchased a 1998 Ford Taurus from the "Back row" of A Ford dealer ship here in town for $550.00 It has the 3.0 and it needed the headgaskets replaced,after getting the rear head pulled I found that the head was cracked in 3 different spots,Front head and gasket were fine and I was lucky enough to find a good set of used ones off a 2001 Taurus on Ebay.I got both heads,Exhaust manifolds and gaskets for $113.00 and that included shipping from Ny. to Pa.Yes they have problems but the Headgaskets are fairly easy to replace on both engines and you can pick a recked Taurus with a good tranny for about $200 or less for a wrecked one.So to each his own but when running properly they can and have beaten those Dodge hemis off the line and they handle really well also.

 

Rock,
great looking car!!! I had nearly the EXACT car, same color and all.(no leather) I forget what Ford called the color but it looks like a British racing green to me.

 

Thanks guys, that's good info. Is it normal for fuel to pour out the rail like that when I remove the front passenger side injector? Thanks again...

 

Worst case senario you could sell it to one of the outdoor museums that are home to many more of its kind and age.All kidding aside it sounds like the same thing that happened to my cousins Taurus tranny.The clutches had to be replaced.The guy (friend) that did it never got it completely fixed.It had erratic shifts when he sold it.Good Luck!

 

Thanks DOHCmarauder!

Xwarrior, yes it is normal for fuel to come out of the fuel rail like that. The fuel injection system is under high pressure so some squirting gasoline is common when removing a component.

Many people will tell you that if you have fuel squirting out like that then the engine must be getting fuel, but that's not necessarily always the case, which is why I recommend a fuel pressure test.