my 96 F150 4x4 has a radius arm bushing klunking around. looking for some tips on changing them. a friend said you could remove the nut and winch the axle forward until the stud comes out of the bracket. that didn't sound right to me. any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks....

 

i've always just ground the rivets off the bracket, drop it down change the bushings
then get some grade "8" bolts to put the bracket back on. just changed the one's on my '87 did it this way. just seems easier to me.

 

that sounds good to me. plus you won't be putting stress on the bushings on the front housing.

 

I agree with xltlariat. I just changed the ones on my 96, and removed the rear mounting bracket. I have heard of winching the front axle forward, but it seemed to me that might put stress on something else. If you don't have a grinder or an air chisel, use a dremel with the thick cutting disc. It takes the rivet heads right off in about 5 minutes.

 

i suppose the gas axe would also work. maybe a little quicker.

 

Replace the rubber bushings with urethane. When I replaced the bushings on my '93 I ground of the rivet heads and punched them out. MAJOR hassle!! Very difficult to get at some of the rivets. Five minutes with a Dremel? NO WAY. Those rivets are hardened steel!!
If I ever do it again I would winch the axle forward until the end of the arm is free of the bracket.
Also, the big nut on the end of the arm is super tight. I took mine to a repair shop and their 3/4" drive air wrench just barely got the job done. Broke the nuts loose, snugged them back up and drove it home with no problem.

 

I did forget to mention three titanium drill bits. Center punch to start, then 1/16 (pilot hole), then 1/8. then 1/4 through the center of the rivets. After that, dremel cuts through the remaining rivet in about 5 minutes. All told it took 20 minutes to drill and cut each rivet. It did, however, take two hours of fiddling with a hand chisel and other attempts to come up with the final solution. Hardened steel is highly overrated....I believe my head is harder......

 

i suppose they call for total disassembly in the chiltons manual. i will have to look and see. i'm not sure if i want to winch or cut? hummmmmmmmmm

 

If you still have the originall axle pivot bushings, then why not just replace those when you replace the radius arm bushings and you can drop the whole suspension at the same time. Thats what I did. Th axle pivot bushings are kind of a PITA though. They are pressed into the axle. I didn't want to drill out any rivets and replace with bolts. With my luck it probably wouldn't go back together right. Anyway, this is just my opinion. I do agree with the polyurethane. I used Energy Suspensions bushings. I have heard that Pro-thane I think is what is called is a good company too.

 

I had to have mine replaced on the '96 about 2 years ago after the driver side bushing turned to "jelly" in only 65k miles. Shop did it for about $400. Most dissapointing performance from OE parts. Ever since then the front end squeaks and groans but it is holding the alignment. Are squeaks and groans common?

 

i will check on the poly bushings. i don't know what would make a squeak though. maybe they are not tight???

 

Should the radius arm bushings be lubed before installation? And if so, and if rubber, what kind of lube?