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Speaking in terms of doing a lift , Is this bad ? Does it put the front end out ? I was under the truck tonight and looking at the front end and was wondering , why cant you re-arc the front and put a add-a-leaf in there and a bigger block in the rear ? Isnt this just what you`d get in a lift kit ? Add in some beefier drop brackets . Is this feasible ? I dont see this idea mentioned much , was just wondering why .
Thanks for any/all opinions .
Re-arched springs have a habit of sagging severely very quickly. All they do is anneal the springs, bend them, and re-heat treat them. Also, an add-a-leaf makes for a very rough ride. My truck from the factory has 4" blocks in the rear, and it has a major case of wheelhop. When it gets lifted, it is getting springs only all the way around.
Raising it with the springs causes the twin-I beam axle to droop, making the top of your tire stick out. You can put in adjustable balljoint spacers to fix this, but you can only compensate for a small lift.
When you buy a lift kit for one of these TTB jobs , how do they compensate for that ? Same way ? I`ve looked at pics of the kits and it looks like there are blocks for the rear , new springs for the front and new drop brackets . Or should I just look for the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ D60 Solid front ?
I lifted my 80 F-350 4x4 way back in 1980 by adding a leaf in the front springs and building longer drop brackets. It worked for a long time but the front crossmember finally cracked at the attachment point under the engine. I pulled the engine and made and installed a reinforcement plate for the crossmember and never had anymore trouble with it. All I was out was my time and a couple of spring leaves. The p/u had negative arch springs on the front and I got a couple leaves off a truck that were the same width. These were positive arch. I took a long tie bolt and sucked them together. This gave me about 2 inches of lift, which was all I wanted. I was running 14.00x36.5x16.5 tires at that time. Be sure and cut off the excess bolt and be real careful if you ever take it apart cause it might hurt you. I know this sounds real 'southern engineered' but it has only lasted 265,000 miles, so far!
Some use brackets like above, to lower the whole axle assembly. I believe some kits give you a whole new axle beam that has compensation built into it.
>Speaking in terms of doing a lift , Is this bad ? Does it
>put the front end out ? I was under the truck tonight and
>looking at the front end and was wondering , why cant you
>re-arc the front and put a add-a-leaf in there and a bigger
>block in the rear ? Isnt this just what you`d get in a lift
>kit ? Add in some beefier drop brackets . Is this feasible ?
>I dont see this idea mentioned much , was just wondering why
Many people say that re-arching the springs is bad becuase they will loose there arch quickly. I would have to disagree with this.
I have a 91 F-250HD 4x4 that I bought 6years ago and had 4" of lift added by re-arching and adding two leafs on all four sets. To this day it has not lost any arch, and rides very smoothly. I did buy Superlifts 4" drop brackets for the IFS to correct the camber.
That sounds like like a good idea . I can just imagine the force on those fronts after squeezing that spring in there As for the issue of re-arcing , I`ve done a couple vehicles now and never had any sag . There is a 4x4 shop here that does them all the time and he said IF the original springs are good quality and in good shape there shouldnt be a problem . Some good things here to consider . I just want to make sure its cost effective , where I live I`ve seen D60 fronts go for abround the $ 600.00 mark so ... Thanks
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