block heater
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block heater
Does anyone know how to test the engine block heater?
I'm sure you check the resistance with an ohm meter but not sure what the reading should be.
I have a Chilton manual but it doesn't even mention the block heater.
2000 F-250 SD Powerstroke.
Thanks.
I'm sure you check the resistance with an ohm meter but not sure what the reading should be.
I have a Chilton manual but it doesn't even mention the block heater.
2000 F-250 SD Powerstroke.
Thanks.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Cleveland Area
Easy way to check the block heater is plug it in and wait 3 hours. You should have a slight temp reading on the cooland temp at startup. And it will start faster than without being plugged in. The Glow plug light will also go out a lot faster!
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From: Dededo, Guam
The block heater I believe is a 1500 watt heater. Based on that I get a 13 amp draw using Ohms law. (watts=volts * amps) To figure resistance its volts=amps * resistance. So 115 Volts AC = 13 amps * 8.8 Ohms of resistance. So the answer to your question is the resistance between the two power leads of your block heater should be between 8-10 ohms.
If the heater is truly blown it should read at full resistance, fully open circuit. If it was shorted it would pop your circuit breaker every time you plugged in.
If the heater is truly blown it should read at full resistance, fully open circuit. If it was shorted it would pop your circuit breaker every time you plugged in.
Last edited by jrs_big_ford_f150; Dec 19, 2004 at 08:14 PM.
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From: Greensboro, NC
I have read the heater has anywhere from 1000-to something of the neighborhood of 2500 Watts. Most household elec. water heaters only have 1500-2000 Watt elements 2 each although. OK, I have '01 F-350, went and checked resistance of mine cold and then at normal engine operating temp. although it should not matter, it's not temp. sensitive. It only knows to get hot when A/C electricity applied.
Unless I'm totally way off here or my heater could be somewhat bad, but it works fine when pluged up, here is what I came up with.
Resistance measured at bumper (includes wiring harness to unit) was 13.9-14.0 Ohms, we will use 14 for simplicity.
115 V divided by 14 Ohms = 8.21 Amp draw
115 V times 8.21 Amps = 944.15 Watts.
Based on: E divided by I times R (E=Volts, I=Amps, R=Resistance) and P divided by I times E (P=Watts, I=Amps, E=Volts)
NOT trying to kick dirt on anyone, just asking if this is right! If so, I would say its a 1000 Watt (944Watt) heater element...
Unless I'm totally way off here or my heater could be somewhat bad, but it works fine when pluged up, here is what I came up with.
Resistance measured at bumper (includes wiring harness to unit) was 13.9-14.0 Ohms, we will use 14 for simplicity.
115 V divided by 14 Ohms = 8.21 Amp draw
115 V times 8.21 Amps = 944.15 Watts.
Based on: E divided by I times R (E=Volts, I=Amps, R=Resistance) and P divided by I times E (P=Watts, I=Amps, E=Volts)
NOT trying to kick dirt on anyone, just asking if this is right! If so, I would say its a 1000 Watt (944Watt) heater element...
Last edited by bug juice; Dec 20, 2004 at 04:10 PM.
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Posting Guru
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From: Dededo, Guam
Originally Posted by bug juice
I have read the heater has anywhere from 1000-to something of the neighborhood of 2500 Watts. Most household elec. water heaters only have 1500-2000 Watt elements 2 each although. OK, I have '01 F-350, went and checked resistance of mine cold and then at normal engine operating temp. although it should not matter, it's not temp. sensitive. It only knows to get hot when A/C electricity applied.
Unless I'm totally way off here or my heater could be somewhat bad, but it works fine when pluged up, here is what I came up with.
Resistance measured at bumper (includes wiring harness to unit) was 13.9-14.0 Ohms, we will use 14 for simplicity.
115 V divided by 14 Ohms = 8.21 Amp draw
115 V times 8.21 Amps = 944.15 Watts.
Based on: E divided by I times R (E=Volts, I=Amps, R=Resistance) and P divided by I times E (P=Watts, I=Amps, E=Volts)
NOT trying to kick dirt on anyone, just asking if this is right! If so, I would say its a 1000 Watt (944Watt) heater element...
Unless I'm totally way off here or my heater could be somewhat bad, but it works fine when pluged up, here is what I came up with.
Resistance measured at bumper (includes wiring harness to unit) was 13.9-14.0 Ohms, we will use 14 for simplicity.
115 V divided by 14 Ohms = 8.21 Amp draw
115 V times 8.21 Amps = 944.15 Watts.
Based on: E divided by I times R (E=Volts, I=Amps, R=Resistance) and P divided by I times E (P=Watts, I=Amps, E=Volts)
NOT trying to kick dirt on anyone, just asking if this is right! If so, I would say its a 1000 Watt (944Watt) heater element...
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From: Yakima, WA
I had problems with my pigtail shorting out. While trying to put a new end on it found that water had seeped in around the factory plug and corroded the cord almost a foot past the plug. I re-wired (spliced) a new section of cord into a female generator receptacle w/waterproof box and flip cover, hard mounted it to the bumper on the driver's side in one of the 3x5 holes in the bumper (97 psd). Modified a HD extension cord w/male generator pigtail end... no problems...no water, no cord hanging out... 1/4 turn plug keeps it secure when plugged in.
No pictures of this mod, about $12 of parts -minus extension cord. Just a thought for a good permanent fix if your power cord is bad. Just plug truck in first, then into your timer...two male ends and one hot.. good ground in the snow... you get the picture!!
No pictures of this mod, about $12 of parts -minus extension cord. Just a thought for a good permanent fix if your power cord is bad. Just plug truck in first, then into your timer...two male ends and one hot.. good ground in the snow... you get the picture!!
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Well I finally got around and checked the ohms on my block heater.
It looks like bug juice got it, mine read 14.7 ohms so I quess it's OK.
We have been having really cold temps and high winds lately here in Michigan and it didn't seem to be working as well as in the past years but it must be my imagination. I had one crap out already when the truck was still under warranty.
I was thinking of getting a magnetic oil pan heater and use it also when the temps get real low.
Thanks to all for the help.
It looks like bug juice got it, mine read 14.7 ohms so I quess it's OK.
We have been having really cold temps and high winds lately here in Michigan and it didn't seem to be working as well as in the past years but it must be my imagination. I had one crap out already when the truck was still under warranty.
I was thinking of getting a magnetic oil pan heater and use it also when the temps get real low.
Thanks to all for the help.
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