Ok, so i have been looking at some past treads (doing my homework on the ccv mod) and stumbled across some FPR Shim treads, and i was wondering, since i already did the 10K mod... should i make an atempt at the FPR shim.... or just leave the 10k mod in?? If you think i should do it... could you explain how to.... i couldn't seem to find a tread with a great explination... thanks!!

 

I would think that you could do the FRP shim, it would prolly work pretty good with the 10k, since the fpr mod raises you fuel pressure, that would inturn help out with the already raised injector pressure from the 10k. the 10k didnt work for me so I havent tried the FPR mod yet but some day.

Here is a link to a guy who has a HUGE webpage, about half way down is the FUEL section, there is a write up on the different FPR shim mods, along with the complete instructions.

http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html



Diesel Rod

 

thanks diesel rod (for the help on both treads!!) I allready checked out that site... which is awsome.... but i am more of a visual learner... and was wondering if anyone had maby a couple of picks or could explain the shim a little more indepth.... thanks again!

 

Robbgt,
I have the 10K mod and just did the FPR shim. It could be easier to do. Take the 3/4" brass nut off the drivers side of the fuel filter housing. Make sure you put a rag under it. Take the nut off and you will see a spring in there Pull the spring out with some needle nose pliers. Just make sure it goes back in the same way. Now behind the spring is a three sided plunger. that the spring rides in. It came out with my spring, but you may have to use a magnet to get it out. Put a 3/16 ball bearing in the hole that the spring rides in. ( I used a regular BB) Put the spring back in the hole of the plunger on top of the BB. Carfully put the plunger and spring back in the fuel pressure regulator housing followed by the brass nut. Make sure the nipple on the nut is centered in the spring. Snug the brass nut back up and your done. Note, the nut is a little harder to get back in because the BB is in there. But don't force anything it should go together smoothly. You don't want to cross thread anything. Hope that helps.

RubberDuck

P.S. I checked my fuel pressure with a standard tire pressure gage. Mine read 75psi with the engine running which is where you want to be. Anything over 80 you need a smaller shim or BB.

 

Diesel Rod thanks for the link on the 94-97 psd's. So much info! So many things to do now!