I`m putting a set of headers on my 97 f150 4.6 and was wondering if I should reuse the factory studs or take them out and use the supplied bolts.Btw Ithe headers are SS Gibsons I got off of ebay for $220 shipped brand new.Any replies would be helpful.Thanks.

 

Congrats on the purchase, sounds like you got an even better deal that I did on my Ceramic Gibson SS's.

http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...hlight=header+

I installed mine myself, and I used the supplied bolts. I wouldn't reuse the old ones as they will probably be hard to re-install, and the properties of the metal have prolly changed due to extensive cyclic cooling and heating of the motor.

Try to use a torque wrench, but it won't be easy, I ended up torquing 1 or 2 and then having to feel the rest by hand.

Here's some tips that I learned while installing mine, hopefully it will help to save some time for you.

Purchase a can of PB Blaster and make sure to soak all the bolts and nuts before you remove them, especially the front drive shaft bolts (assuming that you have a 4x4, need to remove them and swing the drive shaft out of the way to remove the drivers side header) and the flange bolts.

Use a set of good jack stands and raise the front of the truck as high as you can, this will make for easy acess once you remove the front tires and the wheel wells (Which I reccomend that you remove, makes things alot easier!! , be care full of all the plastic push fastners, and don't force anything).

Below the truck (atleast on mine) the drivers side pipe bends around back to the passenger side, in the middle of the truck there is a bolt type hanger for the pipe that goes to the drivers side header. Removing this nut will help to scoot the exhaust sytem back a couple of inches to give you even more room to work, it really makes it easier to get every thing lined up.

The one problem I had was the EGR tube, and getting it re-installed to the header on the drivers side was an absolute bear, it took me the better part of 2 hrs on my 5.4L.

Other than that, just make sure that the vehicle has cooled for quite a while before working on it. A smooth concrete floor and a creeper also comes in handy.

Check out my gallery for pics of my header job!!

Good luck!

BTW, Welcome to FTE!

 

superranger...great pics of the installation, you have me thinking i can do it myself... when i get stuck and cant finish, im calling you! Looking at gibson headers now...what is the diff between the stainless steel or ceramic, what are benefits of ceramic coated?

 

Hey, thanks!

The Ceramics help to send the heat out the pipe instead radiating into the engine compartment, and they won't discolor over time like non-SS's will over time.

SS's are a fine choice, and I would definately take them over chrome plated ones any day.

I just happened to get luck and get ceramic coated ones even though I had bought just plain SS Gibsons.

 

I have a 4x2 and removed everthing from the pass. side in under an hour.I was doing good but I did break one stud.Whats the best way to get it out?It appears I`m going to have to purchase a right angle drill,its the stud on the lower right.Overall the pass. side went easier than I thought but the drivers side appears to be the toughtest.I`ll keep ya`ll posted.

 

Is any part of the broken stud sticking out? Usually they turn out of the head pretty easy just with Vise Grips. I've replaced lots of broken studs on these and have lucked out and not had to drill any.

 

No its in the head not even flush.The worst thing I`ll have to do is tap the hole again.I am going to try an EZ out extractor first.Anythoughts?

 

Have you got a welder? You may be able to hold a nut up to the broken stud and aim the rod or wire into the hole in the nut to weld it to the stud and then turn it out.
If you do end up drilling you can bolt the manifold back on to use the stud hole as a guide to get the drill centered in the stud. Start with a bit just big enough to go through the hole. Just drill enough with that to make a dimple in the center of the stud so your smaller bit will be centered. Otherwise it can be very hard to drill in the center of the stud. The bit will want to walk out to the edge.

 

I ended up drilling the hole out and retapping it to 5/16-24.Finnished the pass side today.The bottom left bolt over the starter took an hour to get in,I probably should have removed the starter in the first place to get to it.