Flare nut wrenches
#1
Flare nut wrenches
I have a set of Craftsman flare nut wrenches (also called "line wrenches") that have never worked very well on any fitting that was difficult, which is most of them. I'm not sure if it is poor fit from being just a bit too large or if the wrench spreads a bit under load. Either way they are best at rounding off the corners on flare fitting nuts. They have given me good experience working with vice grips on tube nuts. Normally I have found Craftsman wrenches to be more than adequate for my needs, but not these.
My question: What brand of flare nut wrenches have you found work well, including on rusted flare nuts (especially brake lines)? Do you have any other tricks for getting these nuts off in a reuseable condition? Looking under my driven in Wisconsin salt '93 F-250 I know I'm gonna be dealing with this problem again.
TIA
MIDLF
My question: What brand of flare nut wrenches have you found work well, including on rusted flare nuts (especially brake lines)? Do you have any other tricks for getting these nuts off in a reuseable condition? Looking under my driven in Wisconsin salt '93 F-250 I know I'm gonna be dealing with this problem again.
TIA
MIDLF
#2
I have the same set of craftsman wrenches in my box at home and have the same experience with them. The jaws are spreading. Try clamping your vicegrips on over the wrench & that usually works. Professionally I use only snap on because they are one of the few that will not spread, especially the crowfoot flarenut wrenches. (i like the looks of the S-K ones too but have not tried them)Try e-bay....1/2 price
#6
I found the best thing to use on flare nuts is a good quality adjustable wrench set. When you buy the wrenches you need to take a bolt or nut with you, and see if the wrench grips four out of the six sides. Some do, but most don't. My craftsmen do, but the smaller sizes are too thin. The older Kleins were the best, but the new pink handled ones only grip two sides. I worked for a company that did commercial fuel oil service, if they caught you using vise grips or pliers on a flare nut they would suspend you the first two times, the third time they'd fire you.
#7
Same hear, I did a couple brakelines a few years ago, so I bought the crapsmans. It was like $18 for 4 wrenches. Car Quest had a set for around $60, they were highly polished, and the guy said they were made buy Snap-on. Snap-on are like $150, Arn't they? I contimplated it for a while, but for the once in 5 - 10 years I would use 'em I went with the cheap crap. They slip at 5 lbs of torque. I borrowed a Snap-on and was blown away you can't make 'em slip. I started giggling like a kid when I saw how well they worked. The crapsmans are still in the tool box, but next time I need 'em, I going to throw 'em away get some real tools.
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#10
I usualy cut the lines off and use a socket. I work in a small shop and im still in high school and mainly use craftsman because my wallet isnt deep enough to jump on the snap on truck (yet) so when ever the line must be saved I just borrow my bosses snap ons. Also I mostly work on GMs and their fittings seem to be pretty soft and rust doesnt help also try the straight jaw vice grip trick by squezing the flats of the fitting to help loosen it
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#14
Originally Posted by mleichtle
Snap-on are like $150, Arn't they?
S-K are a lot cheaper... about $51 from thetoolwarehouse.com.... anyone have any experience with these?
Proto prices aren't bad either: about $72 for a 5 pc metric set from Gainger.
Check out this Facom contraption on Griot's: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=FK290
Last edited by Ian F; 12-17-2004 at 06:15 AM.
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