my 96 f250 e4od 4x4 will shift funny sometimes. it will hesitate like it's building up presure and then shifts with a bang almost like a shift kit. sometimes it;s once a week sometimes it's once a day. lately it does it every time i shut off the engine and restart it, with in a few minutes it will do it again, then after a few minutes of running it will quite. sometimes when this occurs the overdrive lite will flash on and off. i've had it to the dealer but since it comes and goes they said they couldn't find the code. by shutting off the engine the computer resets it self so i was told. any input at all would be helpful.
thank you.

 

My 92 e4od acted like that last year. I took it to my mechanic who found the wire harness an the transmission was dirty. He cleaned it up, and the problem went away. Came back 3 months later so I replaced the MLPS switch. Ford makes an updated one, You may or may not have to re-wire it. I had to rewire, all the parts are there. The part cost around $90-100 and took about 30minutes to swap. Truck has been fine since. The only difference is mine produced a code. I was told there a 4 sensors that contribute to a e4od shifting. 1. The Throttle position sensor 2. The Temp sensor 3. The speed sensor 4. The Manual Lever Positing Switch(MLPS). Any way check the terminal on these, Personaly I would check the MLPS first.
Hope this helps

 

Roger on the MLPS, clean or replace it (may have to rewire a little), but should do it.
Tex

 

Similar problem - my E4OD tends to slip into neutral randomly, and seems to be getting worse. I bought the new style MLPS, but not too sure how to remove the old one... for instance the "directions" say to place tranny in neutral, but when I try to remove the shaft nut, I rotate the shaft. Do I just let it rotate to its stop then procede to remove the nut, or is there a way to hold the shaft while removing the nut?
Also is there some adjustment to be made once I install the new sensor?
Last, is there anything to removing the wires from the old terminal block and putting them in the new style block?
Thanks!

 

Had the same problems 3 yrs ago...shifts erratic, shudders, dealer couldn't do a thing for it. Finally it went. A local shop tried overhauling it 3 times with no prevail. After 10 minutes of driving, it would go forward. The tranny got so hot, you couldn't touch it. The rebuild would have cost $1700. But I saved $1400 by buying an AOD out of a Bronco, installed a B&M Transpack with external cooler and larger pan. Total cost $500 and it still hanging tough to a 400HP 5.8 turning 33x12.50's.

I know this isn't the most appropriate fix, but I've had little luck with the E4ODs. Now I have heard the 97 and later transmissions went through some modifications and they are better. If you do anything with that thing, ensure the fluid and filter is changes at least every 30K miles.

 

I give the tranny regular full-fluid/filter changes. It was during the last fluid change-out that I looked at the sensor to get an idea what I was in for. I unplugged the wiring block, and figured I wouldn't have enough time to figure out exactly how to remove the sensor and re-wire it, so I just plugged it back in. It then shifted VERY smooth for several days straight, so I think I'm at least in the right area.

 

wrenched

if you do decide to change it be careful taking that nut off the shaft. on the other end of that shaft is a fork to shift the valve body and that is what you are feeling stopping the shaft, if you torque on the nut you will bend that fork. one bent on me and the trans would not come out of 1st. had to order one. if the shaft does not have a flat hold the unit that is on the shaft. good luck

 

Got the job done yesterday - pretty easy. Tranny now shifts great (for now). Here are the steps:
1) Put tranny in neutral. Block the wheels.
2) disconnect battery (lots of wires when replacing the connector don't know if any could be shorted, but I didn't want to find out the hard way).
3) unplug wire connector from top of MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor).
4) remove pushrod from shift lever at the MLPS - it just pops apart.
5) remove nut from shift lever shaft. Tranny shop uses impact wrench while holding on to the lever. I clamped a vice-grip onto the flat end of the shaft to hold the shaft from turning while removing the nut (15mm).
6) remove the shift lever from the shaft.
7) remove the 2 8mm bolts, and remove the MLPS.
8) before installing the new MLPS, make sure the "neutral" reference lines line up between the MLPS body and shaft collar, then install it in reverse order of removal.
9) I also had to re-wire the connector, which is also pretty easy - just take your time and don't goof up the wiring. Mine is an 8-wire connector. The MLPS came with the new connector plus all required parts, including 2 alternate parts for wiring different-style (6-wire I think) connectors.
10) pop out the red terminal separator from the bottom end of the connector (with a small dental pick, or equivalent - I used a miniature screwdriver).
11) pop off the top cover (where the wires come in) of the connector, which then reveals a slippery-silicone 'block' thingy that sits inside the connector. This silicone block has holes for each wire to pass through, configured for specific wiring pattern of different connectors. The MLPS kit I bought had the correct silicone block thingy already in the new connector housing (probably the most common one), and 2 others for different wiring styles. This silicone block is a wire separator/moisture barrier.
12) remove each wire from the old connector by inserting a small screwdriver up alongside the terminal to release it, then just pull the wire out of the top of the connector. Take a good look at the new wiring connector to see what the terminal locks look like, so you'll have a better idea of where to insert the small screwdriver.
13) It is recommended to do only one wire at a time so you don't get them mixed up. Insert the wire first through the new end cap, then through the silicone block, then into the connector until the wire terminal snaps into its place.
14) After all the wires are snapped into place, press the silicone block down into the connector housing, and snap the end cap onto the top. Then take the new red terminal separator and pop it into place into the terminal end of the connector. Thats it.
15) Plug the connector onto the MLPS.

The MLPS kit I got cost around $40 online. Ford dealer wants over $100. The one I got has the part# filed off. The tranny shop I consulted with says that is because the part is original equipment, and the retailer is not allowed to resell it with the Ford part# showing. The tranny shop also sells the part for around $40 (I would have bought it from him, but I had already bought it online after checking with AutoZone and all the other usual parts places, who didn't carry it). I didn't think to check a tranny shop for a replacement part.

 

You should no longer have shift problems any more (knock on wood). The old MLPS was prone to getting dirty and also getting water inside. And after that happens all sorts of shift problems would occure. Sounds like the job went very easy for you. Hope it last a long time

 

oh yah one more thing, anybody wanting to replace their MLPS should print out WRENCHED's instuctions cause that is exactly how it is done.
good job!

 

Do you have a link to this online vendor?

 

Link to the MLPS:

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=8

Link to the vendor:

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...T&Store_Code=2

They were very helpful in their emails (sales@bulkpart.com) - Good Luck!
(and thanks MIKE93 for the generous words).