Front floor pan replacement
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Fitchburg, MA
Front floor pan replacement
Okay,
I cut the front section of the floor out this weekend, now what? Let me back up. I took the cab off the frame, sandblasted, and assessed what sheet metal needs replaceing. I built a rolling frame out of 2x6 to move the cab around, but once the floor section was removed (front and toe board), the cab is resting on the dolly in the rear, and the center bracing only. After I cut out the rockers, the dolly will have no place to rest. Do I have to dangle the entire cab from the ceiling in order to work on the sheet metal replacements. Any suggestions....anyone?
Thanks
I cut the front section of the floor out this weekend, now what? Let me back up. I took the cab off the frame, sandblasted, and assessed what sheet metal needs replaceing. I built a rolling frame out of 2x6 to move the cab around, but once the floor section was removed (front and toe board), the cab is resting on the dolly in the rear, and the center bracing only. After I cut out the rockers, the dolly will have no place to rest. Do I have to dangle the entire cab from the ceiling in order to work on the sheet metal replacements. Any suggestions....anyone?
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Adams,CO.
Are you really sure you want to do the floors while the rocker are out?? this may be a good way to warp/twist the cab. Do one then the other and work one side at a time. I just finished both rockers,both front/rears,and both floor sides. All 1 piece at a time. If you don't , the doors may not fit right. planning and patience is very important here. See the gallery under Body work. Good luck to you and have fun....
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Northwestern PA
have to agree with El Cabron, without a great deal of bracing I would not remove the rockers untill the floors are in.
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=262953
This thread link will give you some measurements that will be helpfull also.
Also some of the work your doing can be done with the cab rolled onto the front and on the back, just be carfull not to dent the back when setting it.
good luck
Mike
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=262953
This thread link will give you some measurements that will be helpfull also.
Also some of the work your doing can be done with the cab rolled onto the front and on the back, just be carfull not to dent the back when setting it.
good luck
Mike
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Joined: Oct 2004
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I have to agree with one piece at a time also. If you remove everything, even though what is left of the cab is being supported by dollies or wood, it could sag on you because you have removed the main support structure of the cab, which is the flooring. You will never see that slight sagging until you start fitting fenders and aligning the doors on it.
You may want to start with pieces that are in the worst condition? Floor pans or rockers? If it were me, I would probably start with the rockers and work my may inward toward the floor pans. Double check your bracing/cab support and try to support it in a different way, so when you do remove either the left or right rocker the support will not be in your way.
You may want to start with pieces that are in the worst condition? Floor pans or rockers? If it were me, I would probably start with the rockers and work my may inward toward the floor pans. Double check your bracing/cab support and try to support it in a different way, so when you do remove either the left or right rocker the support will not be in your way.
Last edited by Hseries; Dec 1, 2004 at 09:30 AM.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 105
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From: Fitchburg, MA
Thanks alot. I have braced the cab pretty well, front to back, side to side, as well as Z braced between all parallels. Doing one thing at a time is the way to go, floor then rockers, then cab corners, then cowl repair, then.....well you get the picture.
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