Power tailgate lock installed
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Power tailgate lock installed
It’s been most of a week since I modded something on the F-150, so today I added a tailgate power lock. It’s wired to the power door locks, keyless entry and auto lock.
I found this site online, and it’s a good looking unit, with very good instructions.
http://dynolock.net/ffs04c_install.htm
I would buy this one, but I was in a hurry and I had a spare power door lock actuator on the bench, so…
Anyway it was easy to install, I killed a couple of hours fabricating a plate, installing the actuator and wiring under the truck.
It’s independent of the key lock, which was a pain to remember to lock after unloading the groceries out from under the tonneau.
Two 17 feet lengths of wire, two all weather connecters, 15 feet of black plastic wire sleeve, some wire ties, a small piece of sheet metal, one piece of ‘metal tape’, a door lock actuator, some junk from the shop and it works great.
If anyone wants the details, post.
Chris
I found this site online, and it’s a good looking unit, with very good instructions.
http://dynolock.net/ffs04c_install.htm
I would buy this one, but I was in a hurry and I had a spare power door lock actuator on the bench, so…
Anyway it was easy to install, I killed a couple of hours fabricating a plate, installing the actuator and wiring under the truck.
It’s independent of the key lock, which was a pain to remember to lock after unloading the groceries out from under the tonneau.
Two 17 feet lengths of wire, two all weather connecters, 15 feet of black plastic wire sleeve, some wire ties, a small piece of sheet metal, one piece of ‘metal tape’, a door lock actuator, some junk from the shop and it works great.
If anyone wants the details, post.
Chris
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Marple Township, PA
Hey Chris...think you could PM me the particulars for wiring?? Also, where did you splice in, in the cab, eng compartment, or somewhere else?
I'd like to do the same thing, and probably buy the dynolock you referenced.
Thanks / Don
I'd like to do the same thing, and probably buy the dynolock you referenced.
Thanks / Don
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Hi, DonsFx4. Since I already typed it out, I guess I’ll just post it. They tell you which wires to tape on a stock rig.
The description is great at the link I posted, but here’s my take on the job.
Removing the inspection plate from the tail gate takes a 40 torx head socket. I hung the super thin plate on peg hooks in the garage so nothing would happen to it while I was working.
I had to drill a small hole in the plate behind the door handle, for mounting. I also used the bolt under the left hand nut that holds on the handle. As I made my own bracket, I had to drill another small hole in one of the left bent metal pieces that separate the inner and outer doors.
Both places I drilled had plenty of room under them for the length of the screws. Be sure of that before drilling!
The green clip that holds the actuator rods unclips with a small screwdriver. Then you can push the left bar out of the way while you work.
The pictures on the website show how to mount their opener.
They include wires and instructions on how to tap in.
I did it a little different. I used about three feet of wire inside the tailgate, the hardest part was lacing it through the holes, and out the drain hole on the passenger side. Not really hard, but fumbling kind of work. I snagged the wires with mechanical fingers, also called a ‘grippy’.
When the wires were out the drain hole, on the passenger side, as the drivers side doesn’t have a corresponding hole, I left enough slack so that if I
wanted to, I could pull the tailgate off, and unplug the waterproof connecters I used here.
They include some kind of boot when you buy the kit, but I used some clear neoprene tubing I had handy. Under the truck, (plenty of room with a creeper. This is a tall truck), I laced two 14 gauge wires, each one 17 feet long, inside a black corrugated plastic sleeve. The smallest size black tubing is perfect. I followed the taillight wiring across the rear of the bed, up over the frame, making a corner where they did with the stock wiring. Then forward, past the gas tank to the rear of the cab. I used high quality wire ties. The tubing looks like what they used, just smaller.
Here’s where it’ either easy, or it’s not… On my truck there is a removable rubber plug at the back of the channel that runs along side the door jamb. This channel is where they put a ton of wires for the rear of the truck. You access it by pulling up on the plastic sill guard/channel cover. I didn’t even have to remove the plastic channel cover, just raise it enough that I could grab the wires, and lace them under the green tape the factory used.
I punched a hole in the center of the rubber drain plug, after pulling it out and making sure it was what it looked like.
I pushed the two wires through this hole, leaving no airspace, and then put the plug back in place.
Lacing the wires the length of the cab took about two minutes.
The inspection cover over the left side comes off easily, after you pop the emergency brake release cover out. It pops out , and back in. It’s a little tricky getting the rubber over the plastic, and being sure it goes under the long strip when you put it back together.
Now on my rig I had the two wires there that I had added to put in my power door locks. I just joined them to the two new wires, and the job was finished. Of course, the first time it was backwards, locking the tailgate when the door unlocked. I had forgotten that Ford had reversed the colors on the lone factory lock actuator that came already installed on my truck.
Now, if you have the factory door locks, you might find a pair of standard relays there. My truck had the two relays, but they were not connected… So I used them on another job.
You might have the relays, and you could just tap the output wires right there, in the channel, under the door runner. The instructions with the kit might tell you.
Actually pretty easy. I used 38 feet of wire total. 18 foot of the small black wire tubing.
Chris
The description is great at the link I posted, but here’s my take on the job.
Removing the inspection plate from the tail gate takes a 40 torx head socket. I hung the super thin plate on peg hooks in the garage so nothing would happen to it while I was working.
I had to drill a small hole in the plate behind the door handle, for mounting. I also used the bolt under the left hand nut that holds on the handle. As I made my own bracket, I had to drill another small hole in one of the left bent metal pieces that separate the inner and outer doors.
Both places I drilled had plenty of room under them for the length of the screws. Be sure of that before drilling!
The green clip that holds the actuator rods unclips with a small screwdriver. Then you can push the left bar out of the way while you work.
The pictures on the website show how to mount their opener.
They include wires and instructions on how to tap in.
I did it a little different. I used about three feet of wire inside the tailgate, the hardest part was lacing it through the holes, and out the drain hole on the passenger side. Not really hard, but fumbling kind of work. I snagged the wires with mechanical fingers, also called a ‘grippy’.
When the wires were out the drain hole, on the passenger side, as the drivers side doesn’t have a corresponding hole, I left enough slack so that if I
wanted to, I could pull the tailgate off, and unplug the waterproof connecters I used here.
They include some kind of boot when you buy the kit, but I used some clear neoprene tubing I had handy. Under the truck, (plenty of room with a creeper. This is a tall truck), I laced two 14 gauge wires, each one 17 feet long, inside a black corrugated plastic sleeve. The smallest size black tubing is perfect. I followed the taillight wiring across the rear of the bed, up over the frame, making a corner where they did with the stock wiring. Then forward, past the gas tank to the rear of the cab. I used high quality wire ties. The tubing looks like what they used, just smaller.
Here’s where it’ either easy, or it’s not… On my truck there is a removable rubber plug at the back of the channel that runs along side the door jamb. This channel is where they put a ton of wires for the rear of the truck. You access it by pulling up on the plastic sill guard/channel cover. I didn’t even have to remove the plastic channel cover, just raise it enough that I could grab the wires, and lace them under the green tape the factory used.
I punched a hole in the center of the rubber drain plug, after pulling it out and making sure it was what it looked like.
I pushed the two wires through this hole, leaving no airspace, and then put the plug back in place.
Lacing the wires the length of the cab took about two minutes.
The inspection cover over the left side comes off easily, after you pop the emergency brake release cover out. It pops out , and back in. It’s a little tricky getting the rubber over the plastic, and being sure it goes under the long strip when you put it back together.
Now on my rig I had the two wires there that I had added to put in my power door locks. I just joined them to the two new wires, and the job was finished. Of course, the first time it was backwards, locking the tailgate when the door unlocked. I had forgotten that Ford had reversed the colors on the lone factory lock actuator that came already installed on my truck.
Now, if you have the factory door locks, you might find a pair of standard relays there. My truck had the two relays, but they were not connected… So I used them on another job.
You might have the relays, and you could just tap the output wires right there, in the channel, under the door runner. The instructions with the kit might tell you.
Actually pretty easy. I used 38 feet of wire total. 18 foot of the small black wire tubing.
Chris
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Hi 82f1507.5.
Frankly, I would have thought these would be standard on the higher trim trucks.
I suspect you have some kind of deluxe locker. The Pace seems to retail for about 69 bucks plus shipping, and the Dyno is about 12 bucks less. I had the spare actuator, so it cost me 5 bucks for the wiring, 2 bucks for the black tubing. The rest was just junk off the bench. My wife loves it though. Only the second mod she really likes.
Chris
Frankly, I would have thought these would be standard on the higher trim trucks.
I suspect you have some kind of deluxe locker. The Pace seems to retail for about 69 bucks plus shipping, and the Dyno is about 12 bucks less. I had the spare actuator, so it cost me 5 bucks for the wiring, 2 bucks for the black tubing. The rest was just junk off the bench. My wife loves it though. Only the second mod she really likes.
Chris
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Nice post ChrisAdams
That was a real good idea for placing a weather proof connector at the gate.
Good job. When I bought my lock, it came as a kit with all the wire, cable ties, bracket, cable tube, instructions, etc.. because it was a FORD branded accessory but not made by Ford. I guess they are a lot less now
That was a real good idea for placing a weather proof connector at the gate.
Good job. When I bought my lock, it came as a kit with all the wire, cable ties, bracket, cable tube, instructions, etc.. because it was a FORD branded accessory but not made by Ford. I guess they are a lot less now
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Hi 82f1507.5, I think the 'Ford brand' explains the price
When I worked autoparts never a day passed without someone complaining about dealer prices. VIVA the aftermarket.
Have a great day,
Chris
When I worked autoparts never a day passed without someone complaining about dealer prices. VIVA the aftermarket.
Have a great day,
Chris
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