Hi all,

Well I just recently purchased a 2005 F150 STX SCAB and I love it. Ride is great(compared to other trucks) and I really have no complaints other then the fact that I didn't think I would be missing the remote door locks.
I am looking at installing some door lock actuators and hooking them up to an alarm system. The question I have is this...
Does anyone know if the Door Locking Mechanism in the 2005 F 150 is the Rod Type or the cable type. The reason I ask is the Lock actuator kits I am looking at come in 2 different types and I really would like to order them without taking the door panels off first...yeah I'm lazy.
Also has anyone else tried doing this and experienced any problems? Any input would be great. Thanx.

 

It's a rod from the key and a cable from the door handle. My buddy installed the power locks and didn't encounter any issues.

 

Door panel come off easy, and the locks are 'rod' type. Ten - fifteen bucks on ebay, including shipping. I put a Crimestopper system in my truck for about 60 bucks total, but recently redid it to a stock Ford 'Deluxe' system with alarm. That also cost about 60 bucks.
The Crimestopper system was nice, no complaints at all, but the Stock Power Code system can work with the 'stick on' door number pads, unlike the Crimestopper.

I also added a stock Ford power door lock switch, mostly because I had one laying around.


Chris

 

Hey Chris...I have a Quick Question...

-Does the Ford Deluxe Alarm come with Built in relays for the door actuators or do you have to use seperate ones?

-Mike

 

Unlike the Crimestopper, you do have to add two relays. I have a third for my trunk( front panel lock on my Fold-a-Cover).

Oddly, my truck had the two relays under the drivers side door sill, not hooked up.

The dealer had put some kind of remote system in, and then pulled it out when I wouldn't pay 10-12 times what it was worth.
They left a harness with diodes, three relays, a drivers door lock actuator (wired backwards and poorly) and about 20 'wire taps' where the harness was plugged in.
Worked out, I didn't buy the system, but have used all three relays, the actuator (after fixing their wiring) and have the diodes, etc. if I ever need them. I'll call it a win.
Chris

 

...well how about that. I just finished installing door lock actuators on a buddy's car. Could be the Numbersboy listed in this thread. This door was designed for this, really. Do NOT buy any cheesey door lock actuators on Ebay. Spend some money and do the job once. The sounds of cheap China plastic grinding in your door panel instead of moving the lock can be pretty depressing. Trust me, any shop that you go to that gives you a qoute is a reflection on his labor not materials. Having to do all the same labor all over again to replace it will quickly soak up any savings made initially on the product. I used the Omega DL's. Omega makes alarms in a number names that you have probably heard of. On his vehicle he just wanted a keyless entry so I gave him a simple three button system with parking like flash. This unit had all the relay built in so it was quick.

I've got to tell you this. Since you this far into this door panel it makes great sense to strap on a SPAL power window kit. Absolutely a breeze. At the end of the day you are left with just 4 wires; 2 for lock/unlock and 2 for up and down,

 

Got to agree with Geolink about the windows. If your going inside do it all at once. Just had power locks and windows installed in my STX and they are great. The SPAL system was used for the windows and I like the fact that they operate off the window crank and that nothing has to be changed within the door mechanisms. This way if the window motor fails for whatever reason you can operated the windows up or down with a special tool provided. Good luck

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by geolink3rd

Snip;
Do NOT buy any cheesey door lock actuators on Ebay. Spend some money and do the job once. The sounds of cheap China plastic grinding in your door panel instead of moving the lock can be pretty depressing. Trust me, any shop that you go to that gives you a qoute is a reflection on his labor not materials
Snip

I've got to tell you this. Since you this far into this door panel it makes great sense to strap on a SPAL power window kit.
snip

ALL the local shops (this is Southern California, there is a custom shop on every corner) use the Tesor brand door actuators. 60-80 bucks apiece.
Or I got Tesors, same box and part number, on E-bay for 20 bucks a pair.
The best ones I have bought off E-bay were some yellow Swiss made ones. 7.00 plus shipping for a pair, and they are the best made of the twenty pairs or so I have installed.
Check the poor results that Ford has with their 60 dollar factory ones… there is a reason the dealerships prefer to use aftermarket units, rather than Fords factory ones.
Or you can buy Ford stock units on e-bay for about 20 apiece. I checked them out, not heavy enough, but you could use em.

I have had to get back into one door on 30+ actuators but it wasn’t the actuator, it was the clamp on the end. A screw backed out slightly. My fault entirely, and it took ten minutes to fix start to finish. Use lock tight when you lock down the screws.

On Spal kits, they are fine, but very light duty. If you can put a very few dollars more or get lucky (the kit I used in my F-150 brand new was 48 bucks including shipping) get the Colibri Kit. They are much heavier and these are big windows. Bigger motor, very sturdy construction.
Doing the power windows, speakers, and locks all at once is a great way, if you can swing the bucks and the time at once.
Chris

 

Yanno that is a great Idea guys...I will definitely look into doing the total swap out...just another quick question on the window crank...does it just pop off with the panel removal tool or do I have to curse at it first?

 

The back of the entire handle pops off. Give it a pry down at the base of the handle on the opposite side of the extension. Below that you will find a Torx T-20 screw. That's it.

Everything that you need to remove the door panel is obvious except for two things. Use a pick tool and remove the little plastic panel behind the door handle (the handle used for opening the door not closing it) and behind it you will find two bolts. The entire speaker grill which is MUCH larger that the speaker will pop off with little force. Behind it you will need to remove the four screws that hold the speaker. Not only that, you will have to remove the bottom two white plastic speaker anchors. Just use a pair of duck bill pliers and try not to collapse it in the process. After that the entire door panel will slide UP the OFF.

Geo!

 

Does the actuator hook to the rod or have to be hooked to the cable?

 

All you need is the rod not the cable. The cable is tied to the handle to open the door latch. The rod is basically the what you see coming out the top of the door panel with a nice smooth end on it. There is no secret hocus pocus going on when you install one of these actuators. You basically mount the motor so that it slides the **** up and down for you. If the truck had a brain it would not know the difference between you manually locking and unlocking it or the newly installed actuator doing it for you.

Geo!

 

tHANKS, i'LL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT.

 

Thanx for all the replies Gents....Ill let everyone know how it goes when I am done....Again TY

-Mike

 

Well I am finally taking the plunge. I just ordered my door lock actuators and window kits from A1 Electric for about $250.00 total. Considering I ordered the stuff online at 6:15 PM EST on friday and I got a shipping conformation 2 hours later. I would say that This place is on the ball.
I ended up getting the Colibri Star Window kit, The 2 Door MES Central locking Kit and the DLSW-LT Door lock Switch Kit (2). As for Speakers I am going with the Pioneer TS-A6870R 6x8" 3-Way Speakers for both the front and the rears.
Looking at my work situation at the moment...chances are very high that I will be going out on strike within the next month. I figured what better way to spend a strike then by working on my truck. Wish me luck.