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46o build. How far?

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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 11:07 AM
  #1  
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460 build. How far?

I guess I will ask. I have been kinda quite about it try to fiqure things out myself but I guess it don't hurt to ask for opinions!

Truck: 1978 supercab short bed 2wd
Engine: 460/ c6
Goal: 11's in 1/4 on pump gas (mid to low 11's)

So far I have come up with an engine with only one truely custom part. Being the pistons. Stroke it to a 530 or 557 use scj heads ported, single plane soild roller cam and a little 150-225 shot.

The pistons will need to be a deep deep dish due to the 10:1 cr. One other true custom part problem is going to be the 2-1/8 headers. I have found somone that can build them but it's a custom part and that is money. The closest pistons I have found that are not custom is some probe pistons.


All of my friends are running 13's if not faster I am a truck guy. I really wish the truck would be fuel injected and get 13 mpg or more and be just as streetable as anyone elses. They have turbos and fuel injected. I am thinking of holding out and just doing a plain rebuild and buying the new cobra or an 03-04 . But it would kinda defeat my thinking. First off modding a new car is kinda silly to me now plus it isn't a truck.

If you don't mind tell me if I am looking at this wrong. I have though of a supercharger but I don't want to cut the hood.
 

Last edited by move; Nov 24, 2004 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 03:46 PM
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So swap to fuel injection,seems like an easy enough solution to me.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 07:06 PM
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Turbo charge it, or supercharge it. Those are your only options. You shouldn't have to cut a hole in it for a supercharger.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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You can stroke it until you go blind.... The largest problem you are going to have is traction! 2/3 of the weight rests on the front wheels. The back end is way lighter then you think. My 64 weighs in at 4023 lbs minus the driver. Now I can burn a beautiful midnight black patch of rubber going 30 miles an hour. Your going to have to scrap the rear leaf springs and replace it with a ladder bar or 4-link system to be able to hook it right. I need to do the same thing to my truck. I have looked around for a while for the right set up and I am still nervous of taking that project on. Also you say that you have a C6 tranny, I am rebuilding my tranny with a kit from broaderperformance.com for $355. The kit comes with everything you will need to replace. This is a total Ford place. Looking at the tricks and tech info I see, I can't imagine my transmission not withstand all the abuse it will see. So you can do the low 11's but you are going to pay a few dollar more then you maythink you are.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 08:53 PM
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Trans pretty much taken care of all ready. I just can't decide on engine.

I had been looking at a root or screw supercharger but I couldn't find an intake adapter, besides a custom made one. Does any one know where I can find one? That's why I kinda wrote it out. That would be sweet if I could find one. That would change my engine internals more into my favor.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 09:34 PM
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for pistons Diamond makes a dish piston for stroker applications either the 4.3 stroke or a 4.5 stroke, and I believe J&E also makes one either one of these pistons will get your compression down alot, or if you go with TFS A460 heads they are 91cc chambers, and with flat tops on a 4.3 stroke you will end up at about 11:1 but you couldn't put the fuel injection back on.
And you can get a paxton type supercharger to work on the 460 with ease
and one other thing use a roller cam, you can get there with a flat tappet but it will have to be so radical as to not be driveable on the street, but a roller will get you were you want alot easier.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 10:20 PM
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Blue thunder makes intakes for roots style blowers.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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Thanks. It's looking like I'm going to calm it down just a hair. I think I will go with a hydo roller cam. Still plan on going big bore. Probably go a little milder on the head too.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 01:06 PM
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O I have talked to the machine shop. I think I am just going to go witht eh 4.5 crank and the 6.8 rod. Don't know my piston size yet due to not knowing how much needed. I'm thinking it shouldn't need any more than .060 over. that should leave enough for it to be a good acting street engine. I also now know I am going with the hydro roller cam. Now I need to decide on what heads to use. I was going to go with a set of scj with alot of port work, but now I am unsure. I like the 72cc scj heads. I just don't know if I will need any port work to get to my 750hp goal.

What type of flow numbers should I be looking for in a head? Would another head meet my goal that might be alittle less expensive? I'm trying to start buying the parts I need so It won't take me forever.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 01:33 PM
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You might want to stay with a 4.3 crank unless you like the wrist pin being up in the ring grooves. 0.030 over is plenty, the extra bore won't make a huge diff in displacement (only 12-15 ci) and will leave you some room to grow.

No way to get to 750 HP without ported or aftermarket heads, or without building the short block to take at least 6500 RPM.

Your main goal should be more torque-oriented than HP-oriented. You're hauling around a lot of beef, and hustling it off the line will take some good low and mid-range muscle. The two critical areas are heads and cam. Get someone who knows Ford heads to set up your heads up for you. As far as cam goes, a stroker can take more cam than a stock displacement engine, but it's still better to slightly undercam than to overcam. To get maximum streetability at the power levels you're looking for you will need to go ahead and bust for an all-roller valvetrain setup (including cam). 750 is doable with a flat-tappet cam, but they tend to be high-strung beasties. The roller cam profiles do a better job of handling airflow across the RPM range. They are also more costly.

Count on your build costing at least $5000-6000, if not more, with all the machining and parts it takes to make that kind of power.

To break into the elevens in a 4000-4200 lb (estimated) vehicle you're going to need somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 HP at the rear wheel, which equates to roughly 625 at the crank. Shouldn't be a problem with a 521 stroker (4.3 crank with 0.030 overbore). Just understand that it's not a simple bolt-together build. You will have to put some thought and planning into it (not to mention a pretty healthy amount of money). Head work, valvetrain parts, block work, crank and rods, etc. are all going to be more than you may expect.

(edited to add) Almost forgot to mention that filling 521 cu inches at 6500 RPM will require a minimum of 1000 cfm carb capacity (at a predicted 95% volumetric efficiency). Now you're going to have to pop for a Dominator or Race Demon, a dual carb setup (not recommended), or have a stock Holley or BG extensively modified.

Brad
 

Last edited by Brad Johnson; Dec 3, 2004 at 01:38 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 01:48 PM
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That's why I have been asking all these questions. I have my price from the machine shop. I am planning on taking the block and rotating to them so they can make sure everything fits right. I need to decide on heads because if I use a scj the pistons need alittle work plus I also need to know what cc pistons to get. I already know it is going to be a flat top or a dish. Probably going to go with a dish. Should work good if I decide to spray it alittle!

Thanks about that edit. I was thinking somewhere around 850 cfm now. (From what local racers have told me.) I have kinda droped the Idea of driving the truck around and just start pulling the engine.
 

Last edited by move; Dec 3, 2004 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 01:53 PM
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Also plan on getting every thing balanced. just going to take the flywheel balancer and all the new stuff to the machine shop too.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 02:04 PM
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It would be nice to keep the engine build under 6000. Boy! the more I think of how much stuff could, should or would like to have done. It seems like it will take for ever. I fiqure once I pull the engine I can take the trans to the shop then start working on the rear end. I can put the three link in while working on the engine.
 
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