250 I6 Build
WTF factor. I use the truck for work so I'll get to enjoy my fruits of labor dailySo to start with the engine is a 1969 250 Inline
Boring and honing to .030 over dished pistons (9.5:1 CR)
Line bore mains/rods with .010 bearings
Cam bearings
Surface block and head
De-bur and polish chamber
Pocket port, 3 angle valve job, back cut on valves stock size 1.64/1.38
Mill intake for 2V or 2bbl conversion
Melling oil pump
New freeze plugs
Now the good stuff
Custom Comp Cam Kit (springs locks seals timing set cam)
206/212@.050" .424/.440" w/ stock 1.5 rockers
Duraspark II kit
Tubular exhaust manifold (basically stock manifold but mandrel bent tube)
2.25 exhaust to glasspack, 4" exhaust mandrel bent tube for tail pipe
I've got a bunch of this and figure it won't be much different than a dumped system. Looking for deep exhaust note and won't rev over 2,500 so shouldn't be real "buzzy"
Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
NV4500 5 speed 93' GM Transmission
8.8 LS 3.73 65 @ 2,057 in OD
I ran this through DynoSim and got 288 ft.lbs. @ 2,000 and 155 hp @ 3,500
I tried to keep it as truthful as posibble with the sim, baselined close to stock figures then built it up from there. Definitely mo beta than the 2.3 in it now, not to mention odd but with a cool factor of 7 I guess. I really like the sound of the small 6's 200 and 250, even the 170 sounds pretty good, but for some reason the 240 and 300 just don't sound the same, weird huh?!
Oh well let me know what you think, open to all opinions.
The power figure I posted earlier do you think they're realistic or a little high?
That is a Forum dedicated to the Ford small block six.
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The other thing is the 250 has a different exhaust note compared to the 300. Something about a low revving straight piped small six that just sounds good to me, if you listen to a 200 or 250, even Jeep 4.0 at idle up to about 2800, that's the sound I like. The 300 just doesn't suit me, but to each their own. Won't argue with the durability, as long as there's oil and water in it, you just can't kill'em. But that's inherent to the inline 6's I think.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.fordsix.com/250swap.php
Just to make sure I'm not misunderstanding, the Ranger swap had a 300 in it, yes?
Is the 250 as big as the 300?
The 84 I tried to do back when I was 16 was a 300 with a 3.03 transmission 3-speed. The engine was grazing the firewall and the radiator support needed to be massaged a little because the water pump was sitting where the radiator needed to be. The pinch weld on the floor pan and fire wall was a problem. I was dumb and didn't know **** then, thought cutting was the only solution. 2" body lift would probably had afforded enough room to get it stuck in there.
Flash forward to today and I've learned a little bit, expanded my mind in fabrication. The 250 engine will fit in the 96 Ranger length wise. No heater box cutting like with a V8 swap. From what I've gathered, the 250 was essentially a Windsor when it came to bellhousing, flywheel clutch etc. etc.. Internally balanced instead of the external balance of the V's.
The oil pan and oil pump pick up needs be fabbed up (front sump to rear sump for truck.)
I need to sit the engine as low in the frame as possible, because I don't want to cut or body lift the truck. Basically try to mod the engine to work with the truck instead of altering the truck.
Right now I am trying to figure the transmission out, I pulled the C4 transmission off and removed the bell housing. I am going to the machinist this week and discuss an adapter plate to mount this bellhousing to the NV4500. Only thing that concerns me is whether or not the bell is capable of holding up or is it going to bust the bell. I don't thrash the truck, no dumping of the clutch, no burn outs, no banging gears taking off or accelerating. Should I be worried or will I be alright?
The 84 I tried to do back when I was 16 was a 300 with a 3.03 transmission 3-speed. The engine was grazing the firewall and the radiator support needed to be massaged a little because the water pump was sitting where the radiator needed to be. The pinch weld on the floor pan and fire wall was a problem. I was dumb and didn't know **** then, thought cutting was the only solution. 2" body lift would probably had afforded enough room to get it stuck in there.
Flash forward to today and I've learned a little bit, expanded my mind in fabrication. The 250 engine will fit in the 96 Ranger length wise. No heater box cutting like with a V8 swap. From what I've gathered, the 250 was essentially a Windsor when it came to bellhousing, flywheel clutch etc. etc.. Internally balanced instead of the external balance of the V's.
The oil pan and oil pump pick up needs be fabbed up (front sump to rear sump for truck.)
I need to sit the engine as low in the frame as possible, because I don't want to cut or body lift the truck. Basically try to mod the engine to work with the truck instead of altering the truck.
Right now I am trying to figure the transmission out, I pulled the C4 transmission off and removed the bell housing. I am going to the machinist this week and discuss an adapter plate to mount this bellhousing to the NV4500. Only thing that concerns me is whether or not the bell is capable of holding up or is it going to bust the bell. I don't thrash the truck, no dumping of the clutch, no burn outs, no banging gears taking off or accelerating. Should I be worried or will I be alright?
Not to mention I completely missed the part about the NV4500, and made that post thinking you were keeping the C4, which is what prompted me to post that article. God, I've been making myself look like an idiot a lot on forums lately.

Does the engine not sit on mounts on the truck frame? Why would so much of its weight be sitting on the transmission at any rate?
I am trying to get the engine to set as low as possible so I will have as much wiggle room as possible for the transmission. I was concerned about the bell housing because of how small the C4 bolt pattern is to the transmission. Manuals seem to have the mounting hole spread farther out compared to the C4, I assume to spread the torsional load more. Even though the transmission mount and the engine mounts will support it, I just don't want to have to freak and find another bell housing since this is my daily driver.
I may come across knowing what I'm talking about but only because I've been reading up on it and pulled measurement more than once ha ha. Not really a whole lot of support on this swap though but once I get the truck done, I'm going to try and do a write up on the swap, who knows, I might start something once word gets out ha ha.







