as I wrote in an earlier post, my 'clunk' returned in less than a week after removal/lubing. So it looks like I need to replace the yoke on my truck. Is it just the part on the driveshaft (female splines) that typically fails and needs replacing? Or do I need to replace the mating part (male splines) also? If so, what's involved in the removal?

Thanks, Wm.

 

The slip yoke on the driveshaft is usually what needs to be replaced if greasing it didn't help. Make sure you have a new U-joint on hand in case you need it.
The shaft in the transmission is replaceable only if you take the whole transmission apart. it is about the last part to be removed from the transmission.

 

Racerguy,

Thanks for the timely reply, I sure appreciate the help. That was the answer I had hoped to hear (I plan to replace both u-joints also).

Cheers, Wm.

 

RE: The U-Joints -

Check the Tech Forum if you haven't swapped them out before. If you're impatient, just dive right in. I forgot which one you're working on, so forgive me if I mention something that doesn't apply to your particular setup!
A couple of things to think about/tips:

- Unless you've got a bench vise, swing by a hardware store and pick up a BIG c-clamp. It's got to be big enough to open up to approx. 9" or so. Use this to press your new u-joints into the yokes where they're not fastened down with u-bolts.

- Before you remove the driveshaft, make a mark on the flange and shaft so that you maintain this positioning/relationship during re-installation.

- Use a couple of cheap imported sockets with a diameter just a hair smaller that the U-joint caps as "spacers" when you're pressing things together. This'll allow you to press the caps far enough into the yokes to get snap rings back into place.

- While you're out, make sure you've got plenty of grease, and that you've got tips/adapters for your grease gun so that you can get into every single possible zerk fitting. Don't be stingy with the grease when re-assembling.

- Be extra careful when the caps are off of the U-joint: The needle bearings have a habit of falling out at the worst times! If you drop a cap and the bearings spill out, stop everything and make absolutely sure that you've got all of the bearings back in and that there's nothing "extra" in there with them.

- If you haven't got a set of snap ring pliers, don't try to fake it. Chasing those suckers (or trying to find them) when they "pop" out of your greasy needle-nose set really sucks.

- Look up the torque specs for the U-bolts and use your torque wrench instead of winging it.

- Don't drop the driveshaft. It's surprising how easy it is to mess one up!

Hope this is helpful! Have a great Thanksgiving... Cameron

Cameron Adams
1977 F250 400 4X4 (X2!)
1999 Buell X1 Lightning

"Tequila: It's not just for breakfast any more..."

 

Good tips Cameron

 

Mine does the clunk thing too.I'm replacing my u-joints tommorrow after I get more info on this slip yoke problem.I was going to replace them today but saw this thread and decided to wait.Does Ford sell the yoke? How much? Any additional info is greatly appreciated.

 

The 'clunk' is due to the slip yoke, if you are going to do the u-joints, then lube or replace the yoke too. My local Ford dealership does stock the yoke.

Cheers, Wm.

 

Wm what is the new slip yoke worth?

 

Can I use an EP-2 lithium grease or does Ford sell a special grease? How much goes into the yoke?

 

From Ford it's teflon grease but some people have had good luck with other good quality grease. Just use enough to lightly cover the splines inside the yoke.

 

"SLIPE YOKE" is two piece......"YOKE" is one peice. I think the one's that are the problem is the one piece.....like mine. When they go bad the splines on the yoke/seal wear's out and has to be replaced together. If they wear out too much it can become so loose that the yoke turning can actually blow out the transfer case housing like it did on mine. Replace these two components as soon as you hear the clunk and count on a routine lube schedule for the life of the truck.

 

z 97ford1,

As for the seal you mention, is that the rubber boot that it slides into?

Thanks, Wm.

 

The rubber seal is the seal that goes into the rear of the transfercase housing.....yes, the yoke slides into this seal.
Be sure you apply PLENTY of teflon grease into the cracks of the seal.