no idle
#1
no idle
i just put a carb on my 360 but whene i rev it up it backfires thrue the carb a couple times thene runns smooth everytime i hit the gas but as soon as i let completly of the gas pedel it dies ive tride ajusting the idle sq1rew but it dint seem to do nothing but backfire worse im new at this stuff so if someone cud help me that wood be great thanks
#2
The way I was taught to adjust Ford carbs was to turn the screws in all the way. Then turn them back out 2&1/2 turns. That should be a good starting point. You might also want to check your float level inside . Be sure you don't have any leaks around the mounting surfaces, that could be part of the problem too.A little wd-40 sprayed around the base while running will help find any leaks. Check to make sure your vaccum lines are hooked up correctly or plugged off. I hope this helps
#3
I had the same problem. Sometimes it would idle, sometimes it wouldn't, and sometimes it would backfire. And when it idled it wasn't smooth. The idle would jump all over the place. The problem was a broken spring in the distributor. Reman was $22.50 at Pep Boys. Runs like a top now. Also check your point gap, timing and maybe give it a tune up if it's been a while.
#5
#6
I forgot to tell you this. What keyed me to think about the distributor was that I had the cap off and if I twisted the rotor it didn't spring back. My neighbor has the same truck and I did the same to his and it sprung back. That's why I went out and bought a new distributor. I think the broken spring is why the idle jumped all over the place. Sorry, I thought I had put that in my post yesterday.
#7
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
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#8
im put a rebuilt back on ..yes im trying to gess the bad running prob i finnaly figured it out it was the sending tube in the gas tank stoped up but i did git the the idle tunned in..........bithe way you no where to fined a tank for a 72 f100 everywhere i whent they said they remanufacter from 73 up ...
#12
I unplugged mine by blowing air through it. It was plugged between gas tank and fuel filter. Fuel filter and carb. I blew air through both lines. Got it flowing good put on new filter, started it up, drove 4 blocks and it dies again. I'm thinking of removing the tank and getting someone to coat the inside or maybe put an inline filter before the pump filter and just change it over and over until I'm clean.
#13
#14
Pull the tank, and get it steamed out, after draining it. Most radiator shops will do this sort of thing, including installing tank liners. Be wary of the tank liners though, as all to often the tank isn't prepped right, and the coating starts to come off in chunks...just as bad or worse than the initial rust problem.
#15
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I had gotten some kind of bad Gas once in the winter living in Nv. got a few blocks,
and it did the stop & go trick.I pulled gas line cranked it no gas. Removed canster filter on pump, yep full of some white Milky goop like whale sperm. Pulled tank flushed it out but it had some old crap stuck in button.Got a few hand fulls of pea gravel and put it in a old sock tired a knot to keep from coming out then put in the tank with some good old Tide soap and put a rag in all open holes and shook the Hell out of it back & forth then reflushed with hot water dried it out good dumped alittle gas in and dumped it in a glass jar to see if all water was out. Flushed lines plus pulled open top of carb and sucked some more milky shxt out refill carb with clean gas. I then started it up.Then while running removed carb top carefully and checked for any more crap in the bottom of float bowl area. (You shouldn't do that unless you know what your really doing and ready for a fire.You should have a few rags to catch any spilled gas and not run the engine to long as the the hotter it's gets a the easier it is for a fire to happen.. my 2cent. There is tank coating that you can do your self and if you do it right it will never rust on you again. It my Father inlaws 70 cab tank 8 yrs ago and still good. It was aroung $27.00 bucks then.. hope this has helped you in some way..
my 2cent
orich
and it did the stop & go trick.I pulled gas line cranked it no gas. Removed canster filter on pump, yep full of some white Milky goop like whale sperm. Pulled tank flushed it out but it had some old crap stuck in button.Got a few hand fulls of pea gravel and put it in a old sock tired a knot to keep from coming out then put in the tank with some good old Tide soap and put a rag in all open holes and shook the Hell out of it back & forth then reflushed with hot water dried it out good dumped alittle gas in and dumped it in a glass jar to see if all water was out. Flushed lines plus pulled open top of carb and sucked some more milky shxt out refill carb with clean gas. I then started it up.Then while running removed carb top carefully and checked for any more crap in the bottom of float bowl area. (You shouldn't do that unless you know what your really doing and ready for a fire.You should have a few rags to catch any spilled gas and not run the engine to long as the the hotter it's gets a the easier it is for a fire to happen.. my 2cent. There is tank coating that you can do your self and if you do it right it will never rust on you again. It my Father inlaws 70 cab tank 8 yrs ago and still good. It was aroung $27.00 bucks then.. hope this has helped you in some way..
my 2cent
orich
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