Which tool will work to compress the front springs ? The FORD tool is out of the question. My strut compressor has to small of a radius to lock onto the spring. The inner one that NAPA rents, the hooks are too big.

What does everyone use. Can't be this difficult ?

 

I've used the AutoZone loaner, which looks identical to the coil spring compressor that JC Whitney sells. Only the lower pair of hooks are used. When in place, the tightening nut and washer sits on top of the upper coil spring seat, where the upper shock absorber is fastened.
Jan Richter

 

After removing my front coils four times now, I have found the coil compressor method is the most difficult route. Here is the easiest method.

Loosen wheel nuts, jack up the front end and support on jack stands. Remove wheel and loosen but do not remove the pinch bolt to the upper ball joint. Separate the outer tie rod. Remove the retaining nut from the upper end of the shock absorber, leave lower nuts intact. Place a jack under the lower control arm and jack it upwards until nearly level. Remove the pinch bolt and push upwards on the ball joint to separate it from the spindle. SLOWLY lower the jack and the lower control arm/steering spindle together as low as possible. The coil spring can now be easily removed or will likely fall out on its own. Note there are rubber isolator pads on the upper and lower ends of the coil spring. Be sure you account for both of these during installation. Also note the ends of the coil spring seat in a dedicated concavity in the lower control arm. If there is a lot of road dirt built up around the lower spring pan, the concavity may not be readily evident. Replacement is the reverse.

This method is much easier than using a spring compressor. I am really leery of handling a fully compressed coil spring - they are just plain dangerous. It is safer and faster to reinstall a non compressed coil.

This is a basic proceedure, the AWD version require a few additional considerations and their proceedure has been posted previously.

 

Addendum to the above procedure: In my haste to write that, I neglected to mention you must also remove the brake caliper and wire that back out of the way.

 

Also be careful when lowering the jack be sure to let it down slowly always take your time with springs under pressure.

When I replaced my shocks I also replaced my springs while I was at it because they looked bad too.

The method Aero gave is the same the Haynes manual gave me and the one I used. It is almost ridiculous to get a spring compressor in those close quarters.

 

When I do springs, I take at least a 5/16 and usually a 3/8 chain, run it trhough a coil, and wrap it around the upper or lower arm, and join the ends with a clevis or something, "just in case". The reason being is if a clamp is rusted through, it is possible to have the spring pop out.

 

I agree. Using a spring compressor is going to make the job harder. It's MUCH easier, really simple and easy, to use jack stands and a hydraulic jack. I did this before on both sides, I was amazed how easy it was.