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98 4wd Auto Locking Hubs

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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
98RANGER4WD's Avatar
98RANGER4WD
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98 4wd Auto Locking Hubs

I have 98 4wd ranger 4.0 and I went to replace the front brake rotors but these black plastic caps were on the hubs and must be removed in order to remove the rotors. In attemping to remove the cap, it broke in half and as a result, there are plastic retaining "fingers" lodged inside the hub assembly. I am looking for advise on how the remove the remaining plastic and the hub assembly. I have been told a special tool is needed to remove the hub. Please help me if you have experience in this area. Feel free to email me. Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 07:11 PM
  #2  
Rockledge's Avatar
Rockledge
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Welcome to FTE!

Unfortunately, I have to be the one to tell you that you don't need to remove the black plastic caps in order to remove the rotors. It only looks that way. The rotors slide off over the caps.

I haven't removed the plastic caps myself but a few guys around here have done it before. Hopefully they will chime in with advice on what you can do.

Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #3  
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98RANGER4WD
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Tried that

I tried to remove the rotor prior to removing the cap but this was appearently not possible. Aftermarket rotors maybe? thanks for the reply.
BTW, have you ever had 4wd problems with your ranger?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 07:34 PM
  #4  
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Ken00
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This might help....

Wheel Hub — With Pulse Vacuum Hublocks (PVH)


Special Service Tool(s)


Bearing Cup Puller
308-047 (T77F-1102-A)


Driver Handle
205-153 (T80T-4000-W)


Hub Puller
205-405


Hub Removal Clips
205-404


Impact Slide Hammer
307-003 (T59L-100-B)


Needle Bearing Replacer
205-402


Pitman Arm Puller
211-003 (T64P-53900-F)


Pusher
211-078 (T81P-3504-M2)


Seal Depth Set/Vacuum Test Cap
205-400


Seal Remover Guide
211-071 (T81P-3504-E)


Seal Replacer/CV Tester
205-399


Snap Ring Sleeve
205-403


Removal

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-00».

2. Remove the brake disc (1125). For additional information, refer to «Section 206-03».

µ 3. CAUTION:
Do not attempt to remove the hub lock assembly by prying at the hub lock legs. This can result in cracked or broken hub locks, which can cause vacuum leaks.

Install the Hub Removal Clips.

µ 4. Install the Hub Puller.

1 Align the puller with three slots in the hub lock.

2 Tighten the set screw finger-tight.

5. Using the slide hammer remove the hub lock.

µ 6. CAUTION:
Whenever the hub lock is removed the O-ring must be installed new. Failure to do so may allow vacuum leaks causing loss of four wheel drive operations and contamination of the hub lock vacuum system.

Remove and discard the wheel hub O-ring.

µ 7. Remove the brake disc shield (2K005).

l Remove the retaining bolts and the brake disc shield.

µ 8. CAUTION:
The axle shaft retainer ring must be installed new every time it is removed from the axle shaft. Failure to do so can cause damage to the wheel hub or the axle shaft.

Note:
Pull inward on the constant velocity joint outer shaft to aid in removal of the retainer ring.

Using a suitable pair of snap ring pliers remove the axle shaft retainer ring.

µ 9. Disconnect the vacuum hose and, if equipped, the ABS harness electrical connector.

µ 10. Disconnect the vacuum hose and, if equipped, four ABS harness retainers from the frame.

µ 11. Remove the tie-rod end castellated nut.

1 Remove and discard the cotter pin.

2 Remove the castellated nut.

µ 12. Using the special tool, disconnect the tie-rod end.

µ 13. Remove the three wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts.

µ 14. CAUTION:
If any dirt, metal shavings, moisture or corrosion is found in the hub or the hub bore in the knuckle, a new hub lock vacuum valve must be installed. For additional information, refer to «Vacuum Valve—Hub Lock» in this section.

CAUTION:
The wheel hub and bearing are not repairable. The bearing preload cannot be readjusted. If the bearing retaining nut on the wheel hub and bearing is removed, a new wheel hub and bearing must be installed.

CAUTION:
Do not allow the axle shaft to rest on the knuckle main seal. Failure to follow these instructions can damage the main seal.

Note:
The wheel hub and bearing is a slip-fit design and should not require a puller tool for removal.

Remove the wheel hub and bearing. Carefully pull the axle shaft out of the knuckle. Secure the axle shaft with mechanic's wire.

µ 15. CAUTION:
Whenever the wheel hub is removed the O-ring must be installed new. Failure to do so can allow vacuum leaks causing loss of four wheel drive operations and contamination of the hub lock vacuum system.

Remove the bearing/knuckle O-ring.

µ 16. CAUTION:
The thrust washer must never be reused. Install a new thrust washer whenever it is removed. Failure to do so can cause damage to the wheel hub and the axle shaft.

CAUTION:
Never loosen or remove the large nut on the wheel hub and bearing. The bearing preload is factory preset and is not adjustable. The wheel hub and bearing cannot be greased or repacked. Removal of the large nut can cause loss of wheel bearing preload and severe damage to the wheel hub and bearing.

Remove the thrust washer.

µ 17. Remove the needle bearing set.

1 Install the Bearing Cup Puller.

2 Install the Impact Slide Hammer.

3 Remove the caged needle bearing.

18. CAUTION:
The wheel hub is not repairable. Any attempt to repair the wheel hub can cause severe damage to the vehicle's suspension/front drive axle, loss of four wheel drive operations and wheel end contamination.

CAUTION:
If the wheel hub has excessive metal particles present in the axle shaft bore area the vehicle's vacuum system must be flushed out and tested for correct operation. Failure to do so will cause severe damage to the wheel end seals, hub lock vacuum valve and the vehicle's vacuum system.

CAUTION:
The wheel hub and bearing is not serviceable. The bearing preload cannot be readjusted. If the bearing retaining nut on the wheel hub and bearing is removed, the wheel hub and bearing must be installed new.

Note:
Inspect the bearing preload nut and bore slots to ensure that the slots are aligned. If the slots are not aligned or the slots are damaged, install a new wheel hub and bearing.

Clean and inspect the wheel hub.

l Inspect the axle shaft bore for scoring and excessive wear.

l Inspect the needle bearing bore for scoring, blueing and excessive wear.

l Inspect the wheel hub sealed bearing for excessive looseness or binding.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 07:35 PM
  #5  
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Ken00
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From: South Jersey
Installation

1. Note:
The cage needle bearings set must be installed into the wheel hub and bearing with the stamped part number portion of the bearing race facing upward.

Coat the needle bearings with Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A then insert the needle bearing set into the wheel hub.

µ 2. Install the needle bearing set.

1 Position the Needle Bearing Replacer onto the needle bearings.

2 Install the Driver Handle into the installation tool.

3 Using a hammer, tap on the Driver Handle until the Needle Bearing Replacer seats against the wheel hub and bearing.

µ 3. Verify that the needle bearing set is seated into the wheel hub and bearing.

l Measure the depth between the face of the wheel hub and bearing and the face of the needle bearing set.

µ 4. CAUTION:
Make sure that all eight locking tabs are seated into the groove in the wheel hub and bearing. Failure to do so can cause the thrust washer to come free from the wheel hub and bearing, allowing the bearing preload nut to back off, causing wheel hub bearing failure.

Install a new thrust washer.

1 Coat the needle bearings with Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.

2 Install the new thrust washer.

µ 5. Clean and inspect the knuckle main seal for wear or damage. If the seal is not worn or damaged, proceed to step 12. If a new seal must be installed, follow steps 6 through 11.

6. Note:
The knuckle main seal should only be removed from the knuckle if it is damaged or failed the leak test. The main seal cannot be reused once it has been removed from the knuckle.

Using a drift and a hammer, remove the main seal from the knuckle.

µ 7. Thoroughly clean the knuckle's main seal bore.

1 Clean the main seal bore.

2 Using the shop air supply, thoroughly flush the vacuum hose and the knuckle vacuum chambers.

8. Inspect the knuckle main seal bore for any damage, nicks, burrs or pitting.

9. Apply a thin coat of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the bore of the knuckle.

µ 10. Install the main seal.

1 Position the main seal into the special tool, then install the tools on the knuckle.

2 Using the special tools, install the seal until it seats against the knuckle.

11. Remove the special tools.

12. CAUTION:
Apply at least 3 grams of grease to the sealing surface of the main seal. Failure to do so can cause premature failure of the main seal, resulting in damage to the axle shaft or wheel knuckle, or loss of four-wheel-drive.

Apply a generous coat (3 grams or more) of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-15950-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the sealing faces of the main seal.

µ 13. Install a new bearing/knuckle O-ring and apply an even coat of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the O-ring.

14. CAUTION:
Use extreme care when positioning the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the knuckle. Do not damage the bearing/knuckle O-ring. Any damage to the O-ring will cause a vacuum leak preventing the front hub lock from engaging resulting in a loss of four wheel drive operations.

CAUTION:
Carefully install the axle shaft into the knuckle avoiding contact with the main seal.

Position the axle shaft and the wheel hub in the wheel knuckle.

µ 15. Install the three wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts.

µ 16. Connect the tie-rod end.

1 Position the tie-rod end.

2 Install the nut.

3 Install a new cotter pin.

µ 17. CAUTION:
The retainer ring must be installed with the steel band facing outward. Failure to do so can cause failure of the retainer ring, resulting in the loss of four wheel drive operations/wheel end contamination.

Note:
The seal remover guide is used as a pressing handle when used in conjunction with the Pusher and the Snap Ring Sleeve in this operation.

Install the retainer ring installation tool.

1 Place a new retainer ring, with the steel band facing outward, onto the tool and place the tool onto the axle shaft.

2 Position the seal installer tool onto the Snap Ring Sleeve.

3 Position the Seal Remover Guide onto the Snap Ring Sleeve.

µ 18. CAUTION:
Be sure the retaining ring seats in the shaft groove by pulling and pushing firmly on the axle shaft and tool. Listen for an audible "CLICK" as the ring seats. Failure to seat the retaining ring will result in axle main seal leaks, loss of four wheel drive operations and wheel end contamination.

Install the retainer ring.

1 Pull and hold the axle shaft into the wheel knuckle.

2 Simultaneously press on the tool until the retainer ring seats.

µ 19. Install a new wheel hub O-ring and apply an even coat of Ford High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A to the O-ring.

µ 20. Install the four vacuum/ABS harness retainers into the frame.

µ 21. Connect the vacuum hose, and if equipped, the ABS harness electrical connector.

µ 22. Install the brake disc shield.

µ 23. Note:
Always reuse hub locks if not cracked or broken.

Note:
It may be necessary to bounce the axle shaft and turn the wheel hub to align the hub lock splines.

Note:
To aid in hub lock installation, the hub lock should be in the engaged position while aligning it to the axle shaft and the hub and bearing.

Install the hub lock.

1 Position the hub lock onto the wheel hub using hand pressure, then using a rubber mallet, install the hub lock.

2 Inspect all of the hub lock locking arms to ensure that they are fully seated in the hub groove.

24. Perform the wheel-end vacuum leak test. For additional information, refer to «Vacuum Leak Test—Wheel-End» in this section.

25. Install the front brake disc. For additional information, refer to «Section 206-03».

26. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-04».
 
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 07:43 PM
  #6  
98RANGER4WD's Avatar
98RANGER4WD
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Thank You

Thank you. This will help. Is there a website with a complete repair manual for rangers that you know of?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2004 | 12:13 AM
  #7  
Rockledge's Avatar
Rockledge
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Originally Posted by 98RANGER4WD
I tried to remove the rotor prior to removing the cap but this was appearently not possible. Aftermarket rotors maybe? thanks for the reply.
BTW, have you ever had 4wd problems with your ranger?
If I remember correctly, I sprayed some penetrating oil in and around the "seam" where the inner part of the rotor looks like it's attached to the cap (but it's really not attached). Then I used a rubber mallet (I didn't go crazy on them) to loosen up the rotors.

I personally have not had any trouble with my 4WD, but many other people have. The '98-'00 Rangers use what is called a "Pulse Vacuum Hublock" 4x4 engagment system. The PVH system uses vacuum to engage/disengage the hubs, so one of the more common problems seems to be vacuum leaks. The hubs themselves are sealed units, so a leak can develop internally in the hub (a bad or missing O-Ring, for example). Also, I've read several posts where the rubber vacuum lines leading to the hubs have been knocked off.

Some very detailed information on the PVH system can be found here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=113363
 
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Old Nov 14, 2004 | 11:47 AM
  #8  
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Higgin
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Ken00 - just wondering where you get all that info from above? Do you have an online repair manual or something? I've seen you have those big, detailed posts before, adn just thought I'd ask.

And yes, the hubs on 98-00 rangers are TERRIBLE!! I'm on my 3rd set now. And there are no aftermarket replacements. Boooo!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2004 | 06:18 PM
  #9  
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Drgslayr
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How are the Hubs on the 95 rangers?


Been having trouble with my 4x4 lately and wondering about the hubs as well.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2004 | 08:29 PM
  #10  
Ken00's Avatar
Ken00
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From: South Jersey
I have the Ford manuals.

The 95 is different, might be a dirty motor, what problems are you having.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #11  
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LB3711
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I recently did a front brake job on my 98 ranger 4.0 4x4 and do not need to remove the hubs at all. my rortors came off seperate of the hubs. I had to do this brake job within 8000 miles of the last one because the backing plate on the pads rusted solid in place on one side and the pads we constantly attached to the rotor causing major drag and brake dust.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2004 | 12:37 AM
  #12  
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99DR4X4
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One way to do it

My method of removing the plastic hub asembly is probably not good, but I have only done it twice and I had to do it. I take the spare tire iron and use the end that is suposed to be used to remove the center caps. There is a pattern of rectangular cuttouts where the hub meets the rotor, take your tire iron and wedge the tip into those rectangular holes and GENTLY use it as a lever to pry out the hub, when you get it moved out a little bit, take the tire iron to the other side of the hub and pry it a little more. The goal it to gently shimmy the hub out. If you are having a struggle, give up and get the right tools. Mine came off with ease both times and did not harm the hub or wheel in any way. Good Luck!
 

Last edited by 99DR4X4; Nov 15, 2004 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2004 | 12:51 AM
  #13  
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99DR4X4
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Ignore My Last Post!!

I actually just read this from Ken00's detailed post:
"µ 3. CAUTION:
Do not attempt to remove the hub lock assembly by prying at the hub lock legs. This can result in cracked or broken hub locks, which can cause vacuum leaks."

This method that I used 2 times did not have a negative effect on my hubs, however it may not work for you and you may end up causing severe damage to your hubs. I have taken my rotors off before and I know you dont need to remove the plastic hub casing. I have discovered working with our trucks front driveline requires a lot of know how and information on that specific 4x4 system. In most cases dealers and shops really dont know what there doing to our hub lock system. So if you must remove the hubs, read ken00's post thouroughly.
 
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