Oil for Y-blocks
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
Oil for Y-blocks
I did a little surfing to get the poop on oil for Y-blocks. Here's the bottom line.
Run with Valvoline VV851.
For break-in, use GM EOS.
What's needed is a compound called zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate, an anti-scuff compound. The diesel engine oils have a different version called zinc-DIARYL-dithiophosphate that activates at higher temperatures than the gas engine oils.
I got this from a thread at
4M.net
Run with Valvoline VV851.
For break-in, use GM EOS.
What's needed is a compound called zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate, an anti-scuff compound. The diesel engine oils have a different version called zinc-DIARYL-dithiophosphate that activates at higher temperatures than the gas engine oils.
I got this from a thread at
4M.net
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 2
From: Southern New Hampshire
EOS is fine on later model engines for break-in and of course assembly lube at anytime. However if installing a non stock cam ALWAYS follow the manufacturers lube instructions.
For Y blocks (and flatheads) use plain ole 30W non detergent for the first 50 miles; then change oil and filter. Run 30W another 200-500 miles until the rings seat. This is the recommendation of numerous Y engine builders as well as on all the forums Ive trolled over the years.
Then any good multigrade oil will suffice for long life. Castrol GTX has been reported to have the slipperiest additive package. They also now have an oil for high mileage gas engines.
Shell Rotella is another superb oil for anti scuff and high mileage engines.
Between Castrol & Rotella Ive got 382K on a Dodge 318 and it still runs fine with no expensive noises.
I dont think Ill live long enough to get that kind of mileage on Y's or flatties!
For Y blocks (and flatheads) use plain ole 30W non detergent for the first 50 miles; then change oil and filter. Run 30W another 200-500 miles until the rings seat. This is the recommendation of numerous Y engine builders as well as on all the forums Ive trolled over the years.
Then any good multigrade oil will suffice for long life. Castrol GTX has been reported to have the slipperiest additive package. They also now have an oil for high mileage gas engines.
Shell Rotella is another superb oil for anti scuff and high mileage engines.
Between Castrol & Rotella Ive got 382K on a Dodge 318 and it still runs fine with no expensive noises.
I dont think Ill live long enough to get that kind of mileage on Y's or flatties!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 323
Likes: 3
From: m571.com/yblock
I am a FIRM believer in EOS, even if it does come from the "wrong" company. It is the only assembly lube/additive that I've been able to get easily from any car maker.
I use EOS as an assembly lube for the crank, rods, timing chain, etc. I use Isky cam moly grease for the cam, distributor gears, lifters, pushrod ends, rockers, valve tips, and guides.
I ALWAYS prime the pump and achieve full oil pressure by turning the pump with an electric drill before firing the motor for the first time.
GM wants you to keep the EOS in the pan for the first 500 miles, so I do that, as well.
I ALWAYS clean the threads on new oil filters, which are dirty on all brands I've ever seen, and ALWAYS use Gard filters from NAPA, filling them with as much oil as I can get into them.
Since I am going to use an oil cooler for this next rebuild, I may go to a remote with two filters in parallel, just to make sure that the bypass valve never operates.
I use EOS as an assembly lube for the crank, rods, timing chain, etc. I use Isky cam moly grease for the cam, distributor gears, lifters, pushrod ends, rockers, valve tips, and guides.
I ALWAYS prime the pump and achieve full oil pressure by turning the pump with an electric drill before firing the motor for the first time.
GM wants you to keep the EOS in the pan for the first 500 miles, so I do that, as well.
I ALWAYS clean the threads on new oil filters, which are dirty on all brands I've ever seen, and ALWAYS use Gard filters from NAPA, filling them with as much oil as I can get into them.
Since I am going to use an oil cooler for this next rebuild, I may go to a remote with two filters in parallel, just to make sure that the bypass valve never operates.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL (more or less)
Any additive that contains calcium or barium can lead to these being deposited in the combustion chamber when used regularly, possibly causing preignition or detonation. EOS falls into this category. The operative word being "regularly".
Got this from a GM engineer about 20 yrs. ago...
That being said, I've used it in virtually every engine break-in and never had a problem that was related to the EOS.
Mike
P.S. If it makes anyone feel better, a number of GM Winston Cup...err...Nextel Cup...whatever....teams use Ford brand brake fluid, wrapping the cans or pouring it into another container to disguise it.
Got this from a GM engineer about 20 yrs. ago...
That being said, I've used it in virtually every engine break-in and never had a problem that was related to the EOS.
Mike
P.S. If it makes anyone feel better, a number of GM Winston Cup...err...Nextel Cup...whatever....teams use Ford brand brake fluid, wrapping the cans or pouring it into another container to disguise it.
Last edited by Homespun91; Nov 14, 2004 at 12:13 PM. Reason: add'l info
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