Thought I'd share my experience with this product. I was looking for a zinc additive as the oils now have the zinc deleted. Was not finding it in the local shops, came across this stuff. Their website shows some interesting claims, Zinc Replacement Additive , so when I changed my oil I put in a bottle.

Now I have not seen it, but I understand that sometimes you can put a synthetic oil into an engine that has some sweating but no real leaks, and have it start to pour oil. This is what happened to my 410 when I put the Hy-Per Lube Zinc Replacement in. I now have a huge oil stain in my driveway, and I have leaked about half a quart of oil in 4 weeks. Seems like this stuff acts similar to a synthetic.

I'm going switch over to a simple zinc additive. Hope it stops leaking because it is a mess.

 

I am so reluctant to put anything "in a can" into motor oil, it's not even funny.

If I ever EVER rebuild an FE ever again, it's getting a roller cam, zinc be damned

 

Krewat, I hear you, but the lower zinc content is bad for all engines, worse for older designs. It is only good for extending catalytic converter life.

If I had been able to find a high zinc oil such as Brad Penn up here I would have used it, but the one place that seems to sell it is not near me. Clearly the additive I used was not ideal, but since then I have found a source for a Lucas zinc additive which is a conventional oil base. Clearly the Hyper-Lube was not ideal.

It is worth pointing out that you are putting things from a can into your engine when you add oil, and it contains additives that you usually don't know about.

 

Mmm... Lucas... I know of two engines that Lucas oil stabilizer ruined... Different stuff yes, but again, stuff in a can

I know, oil is "from a can" too (plastic bottle) but when it says Castrol GTX on it, I know what it is

 

"Liquid Engineering" LOL

 

The stores here sell a few different brands of additives.

The STP was in a HEAVY carrier oil, much like that motor honey stuff. I never bought a second bottle.

Riselone has a product that claims to have the recommended amount of ZDDP. It pours like a 30wt???

Since I had just regasketed this engine, the only leak it developed came from a 20-year-old valve cover grommet.

 

like to comment on the stp additive, i put this stuff in my 1945 farmall H. comes in a little blue plastic bottle.
i use Quaker state 10w-30. before using the stp my oil pressure was 30 psi at start up and about 15 psi after it got hot. i put a can in with the oil change and noticed the psi was at 50 when started and remained at 25 psi during my field cutting. the former owner put in the gauges, kinda nice. just my .02 cents.

 

STP oil treatment is way to thick to run in a crankcase IMO. I used it for an assembly lube before but I wouldnt use it or Quaker state in my motor. Had several old mechanics tell me Quaker will sludge up a motor, had alot of parafin in it. I tend to agree with V10, I dont like putting anything in the crankcase but oil but I dont know if there is something to this ZDDF stuff or not.

 

I remember back in the 70's, both Quaker State AND Penzoil would sludge up an engine.. guessing because of the parafin. Things could be different now with the change in motor oil technology, but out of habbit.. I still stay away from both of them.

 

I actually went to an oil comparison demostration in 1980. They heated, froze and performed friction test's many brands. Shell Fire and Ice, Exxon's Nitrex, Penzoil, Kendal, Valvoline, etc. Penzoil left a yellow/brown varnish coating on the metal after heated, not parafin. Valvoline was right up there at the top in the tests. I've been using it ever since. ALL oils are WAYYY better now than back in the day. SG rating or higher is what you want. Really, there is no need to run synthetic oil anymore for the average Vehicle. I still use synthetic, just because,

As far as Quaker State oil, they do not have the parifin issues they had in the past. True, they used to advertise that they only used "pure Pennsylvania Crude oil", they dont anymore as far as I know. Also, this is\was funnnnnny to me even back then. Their TV advertisements used to state: "Quaker State, a layer of protection for your car!" He he Yea, I scraped a bunch of it (parifin) out of many engine's. Mix that with the carbon from those smog era engine's, it was a mess.

The Zinc issue is something else. This issue of synthetic oil leaking where conventional oil doesnt may or may not be 100% true. I've heard this argument for years. In some cases, I have no doubt it has happened. Is it because of the detergent in the synthetic oil cleaning old sludge in the old gasket's better than dino oil? I dont know. This smaller molecule crap in synthetic oil causing leaks, I think is BS. I have synthetic oil in all my vehicles from my 76 F250, to a new Murano, not a leak at all. If oil leaks out somewhere, replace the dogon seal or gasket. I'd think 10w30w conventional would find the weak gasket\seal and leak eventually anyway. JMHO.)) I could be wrong, but I think the sealing surfaces on new vehicles still use gasket's/seals/silicone/sealer just like the old engines. I put it (synthetic oil)in my Son's old 1986 lincoln 5 months ago for the first time. I just called him, no leaks at all. Mayby the old cork\fiber type gasket's do leak synthetic oil. I dont use those anymore. Mayby that's the answer.

 

Riderman,

I don't claim this is based on the scientific method, but what I noticed was that I ran synthetic in engines that didn't leak on conventional oil, and they didn't leak with synthetic. I never put a synthetic in an engine that leaks, but I have friends that did, and the result was a small, sweating seal became a gusher. Don't know why, but that is what happened.

My 410 has some minor issues, sweating from the rear main seal, and a slow leak around the dipstick plate, but once I changed the oil and added the Hyper-Lube it started pouring oil. I will shortly change the oil again and see if it persists.

 

I know these are opinion's, just like mine This is mis-information though. Used correctly, there is no issue with STP. As I said, used correctly! You do not just dump it in with the cold oil during an oil change. If you do, most of it goes to the bottom of the oil pan and stay's there. Your oil pump cannot suck this stuff up in it's original form anyway. It will fill the sump of the oil pan up if used incorrectly and there will be a hole through the stuff to the oil drain plug and oil pick up screen. I've seen it many times, back in the day. STP was used by MANY people in these old engines then. Probably because Richard Petty advertised it in Nascar and it was pushed on TV. You could tell the people who used it correctly and those who just dumped it in at an oil change with the cold oil just by pulling the oil pan.

PS: Warm the engine up and pour it slowly into the engine. It WILL mix with the oil. I do not think there is any need for this type of additive anymore with the modern oil's available today. "Motor Honey" and other viscosity thickners are band aid's to suppress Mechanical noise\ssues that should be repaired anyway. If it get's someone by for a while GREAT! I just hope they do not try to pawn that engine off on me or mine sometime later! My soap box just collapsed)))

 

I broke my FE in using Castrol GTX 20W50 and there was a small bit of oil leaking out. Later on I switched to Mobil 1 15W50 mostly because it is reputed to have higher zinc in it, but also as it is supposed to be good oil. I have a much larger oil leak now.

Well, the size of the leak is likely the same, but more oil comes out of it. Interestingly, my hot idle oil pressure is also up about 2 psi with the Castrol. So the Mobil 1 must be thinner than a comparable dino oil, and that may explain why more of it leaks. Or maybe it's just more "slippery" and slips out.

Speaking of STP (can you even buy it anymore? I havn't seen it on the shelves in a long time), back in the early 80's I was driving a 74 Datsun 710 about 180 miles a day (round trip) to work. The rings were going and it used at least 1 qt of oil per day.

I thought I'd try some STP (don't remember if it was the blue bottle or the red bottle). I used to open the STP bottle cap, and then set the bottle in hot water to make it thinner, and then pour it in. My engine suddenly stopped burning oil...... for 3 days. By day number 4, it was back to burning oil, and by day 5 it was back to burning the normal 1 qt a day.

I did fix it though. I found a 2 litre version of my little 1800 and rebuilt it and did the swap.

That was my lesson. Burning oil = a rebuild requirement.