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Hard for me to find any 55's that are flat black or in primer (im lookin for "rat rods" basically) so i was seeing if anyone had any good pictures of 53-55's in flat black, red oxide, gray or any rat rod type style. (i call it budget style myself)
When you hit "Post Reply" there are several icons above the text entry area that comes up. There is one that looks like a couple of mountains with a yellow sky. Clicking it will pop up a box where you put in the URL of the picture. Clear as mud?
Mac and I wanted to make out to the Dash to the Dells. Looks like we missed a good show! Too much was on our plate. I forgot to add a pic of his panel, in suede. (It's getting a new color combo this winter.) (more pics in my galleries)
Last edited by Keahi73; Nov 3, 2004 at 02:27 PM.
Reason: spelling error correction
Thanks for the Info on how to link the pics.
Go to the Paint And Bodywork section on this forum and search for the John Deere Blitz Black paint. Its a satin black and it costs around $22.00 a gallon, I bought the paint, thinner, primer sealer, and hardner all for $100.00. The reason I went with it was because using just the primer won't stop the metal underneath from rusting. Primer is porus, the paint is not, at least that is the conclusion my reasearch led to. I really like the way it turned out, that paint is designed to be applied outdoors. John Deere also sells the paint in spray cans for $7.00 each. I shot my truck with it so I could drive it and finish the body work a little at a time. And respray the repaired areas with spray cans until I can afford to have it painted properly.
The one concern I have with using the JD black paint is it's compatability with the paint you will eventually use. If you are going to keep the JD paint as you final top coat paint there is no problem. But if you are going to top coat it with an automotive type paint later on, the JD paint might be a weaker paint that can't handle the binders or other chemicals in acrylic urathane, or other types of automotive top coats, it may lift. You would have to make sure you have removed it all before applying the better paint. You might be able to seal it off with epoxy primer but there is always the chance of lifting. Epoxy primer is a good sealer against the elements. I had it on the fender of my last truck for over a year and a half and did not see any rust or any other ill effects, BTW I live in SE Wisconsin and we have extremes in weather up here. You could use that while you are driving it and doing you body work. Just another note, as with any kind of paint good ventilation and respiration protection is needed, especially with epoxy and urethanes.
I was going to use some black base then spray clear on it that had been mised with flattening agent...I WANT PICTURES! i have also been considering leaving it oxide red
Look at the Rust Bullet or POR 15 thread below. There is a car painted with Zero Rust and clear coated looks great to me I think that is how I am going to go.
Bobj49f2 is right on in his words of caution, about John deere blitz blck paint. I too like the flat or satin look and went ahead and painted my cab wit the J.D. paint,which by the way is synthetic enamel. When I investigated alittle more about covering this paint, I found I may have to take it off. One suggestion was to block sand it and cover with a primer/sealer,but even then
there may be a chance of the cheaper paint lifting. But if you like the look, and are going to keep it in this paint, then no problem.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.