flat black/rat rod pics
#1
#5
Originally Posted by 51ford fan
How did you post that picture ???
Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100
#6
Originally Posted by 51ford fan
How did you post that picture ???
For instance:
[img] http://yourimagelocationhere [/img] (with no spaces in between the img tags and your url.)
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Mac and I wanted to make out to the Dash to the Dells. Looks like we missed a good show! Too much was on our plate. I forgot to add a pic of his panel, in suede. (It's getting a new color combo this winter.)
(more pics in my galleries)
(more pics in my galleries)
Last edited by Keahi73; 11-03-2004 at 02:27 PM. Reason: spelling error correction
#10
Thanks for the Info on how to link the pics.
Go to the Paint And Bodywork section on this forum and search for the John Deere Blitz Black paint. Its a satin black and it costs around $22.00 a gallon, I bought the paint, thinner, primer sealer, and hardner all for $100.00. The reason I went with it was because using just the primer won't stop the metal underneath from rusting. Primer is porus, the paint is not, at least that is the conclusion my reasearch led to. I really like the way it turned out, that paint is designed to be applied outdoors. John Deere also sells the paint in spray cans for $7.00 each. I shot my truck with it so I could drive it and finish the body work a little at a time. And respray the repaired areas with spray cans until I can afford to have it painted properly.
Go to the Paint And Bodywork section on this forum and search for the John Deere Blitz Black paint. Its a satin black and it costs around $22.00 a gallon, I bought the paint, thinner, primer sealer, and hardner all for $100.00. The reason I went with it was because using just the primer won't stop the metal underneath from rusting. Primer is porus, the paint is not, at least that is the conclusion my reasearch led to. I really like the way it turned out, that paint is designed to be applied outdoors. John Deere also sells the paint in spray cans for $7.00 each. I shot my truck with it so I could drive it and finish the body work a little at a time. And respray the repaired areas with spray cans until I can afford to have it painted properly.
#12
The one concern I have with using the JD black paint is it's compatability with the paint you will eventually use. If you are going to keep the JD paint as you final top coat paint there is no problem. But if you are going to top coat it with an automotive type paint later on, the JD paint might be a weaker paint that can't handle the binders or other chemicals in acrylic urathane, or other types of automotive top coats, it may lift. You would have to make sure you have removed it all before applying the better paint. You might be able to seal it off with epoxy primer but there is always the chance of lifting. Epoxy primer is a good sealer against the elements. I had it on the fender of my last truck for over a year and a half and did not see any rust or any other ill effects, BTW I live in SE Wisconsin and we have extremes in weather up here. You could use that while you are driving it and doing you body work. Just another note, as with any kind of paint good ventilation and respiration protection is needed, especially with epoxy and urethanes.
#14
#15
J.D. Blitz Black
Bobj49f2 is right on in his words of caution, about John deere blitz blck paint. I too like the flat or satin look and went ahead and painted my cab wit the J.D. paint,which by the way is synthetic enamel. When I investigated alittle more about covering this paint, I found I may have to take it off. One suggestion was to block sand it and cover with a primer/sealer,but even then
there may be a chance of the cheaper paint lifting. But if you like the look, and are going to keep it in this paint, then no problem.
Alan
there may be a chance of the cheaper paint lifting. But if you like the look, and are going to keep it in this paint, then no problem.
Alan