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Have a quick question, I been curious about the waste gate also. The question is if you have a tunner do you need to do this mod, wont a tunner make it so the wastegate doesnt dump at 5-8 lbs. Or will capping the red line, adding a regulator, further enhance the performance of the tunner.(When I say tunner Im talking about the superchips micro tunner). Thanks Brandon
side note: where can one purschase a line regulator.
The waste gate is mechanical not electrical, tuner will not control it. The regulator can be had at most hardware stores. A diode can also be used. Search some of the other posts for directions on that.
sorry, im new to this too a couple questions
-about how much will the regulator cost?
-this wont hurt my completely stock truck at all?
-will it greatly reduce my gas mileage?
thanks in advance for helpin a newbie out
Waste gate mod will not hurt your truck, over boost will, thats why you need gauges. The regs I've seen online were 35 or 40 bucks. I'm going to do the zener diode as soon as I can find one. Radio Shack here only had the 5.1, need the 4.7 .
unpluged mine the other day and capped it, not neck breaking but there is a noticeable increase in power. What i did notice was i could go up a couple steep grade hills in my area about 4-5 mph faster than i could before
The waste gate is mechanical not electrical, tuner will not control it.
That's not entirely correct. The wastegate is mechanical, but the other end of the wastegate control line is plugged into the wastegate control solenoid, which is controlled by the PCM. You are also correct that the tuner will have no effect on it.
Originally Posted by mech2161
I'm going to do the zener diode as soon as I can find one. Radio Shack here only had the 5.1, need the 4.7 .
Have them look up the 4.7v in the book at Radio Shack and order it....it will ship to your house in about three days.
Trying to keep it simple. I got an electronics buddy checking his stock tonight on the diode. You can't find anything when you want it. I'm worse than a kid.
I was reading the post about using the air regulator on the red line to the wastegate. By limiting the working pressure on this red line does that correspond to the boost leveling off at this pressure? If this is the case do you have a part number for the mini regulator?
Thanks
Scott
I just finished up installing the zener diode. Finally found them 2 for 2 bucks. Had to drive about 30 mins to get them, man what you'll do for cheep horsepower. I'll test it out on my way home and let you know the outcome.
It works great! No more SES light. It took some searching to find the directions on this so I'll tell you what I did. I used part # NTE5096A zener diode. It is rated at 4.7 volts 1 watt. I pulled the wiring for the map sensor out of the wrap about 5 inches back from the connector to make the connection, I can keep it hid by doing this. Seperate out the LG/BK wire, remove about 1/2 inch of insulation and solder on the banded end of the diode. On the other end solder on a piece of wire long enough to reach the ground strap above the blower motor. Crimp on an eyelet and ground it to the firewall with the bolt for the ground strap. Tuck the wires back in the loom and you are done. Takes about 15 minutes. This mod is cheaper than a regulator and just as easy. I hope this helps.
I was reading the post about using the air regulator on the red line to the wastegate. By limiting the working pressure on this red line does that correspond to the boost leveling off at this pressure? If this is the case do you have a part number for the mini regulator?
Thanks
Scott
The regulator does not go in the wastegate control line, it goes in the MAP sensor line. The amount of boost the truck makes will not change, you are merely limiting what the computer sees.
It works great! No more SES light. It took some searching to find the directions on this so I'll tell you what I did. I used part # NTE5096A zener diode. It is rated at 4.7 volts 1 watt. I pulled the wiring for the map sensor out of the wrap about 5 inches back from the connector to make the connection, I can keep it hid by doing this. Seperate out the LG/BK wire, remove about 1/2 inch of insulation and solder on the banded end of the diode. On the other end solder on a piece of wire long enough to reach the ground strap above the blower motor. Crimp on an eyelet and ground it to the firewall with the bolt for the ground strap. Tuck the wires back in the loom and you are done. Takes about 15 minutes. This mod is cheaper than a regulator and just as easy. I hope this helps.
I ran the diode a long time ago and liked it a lot. It worked perfectly with my old Superchip, but when I upgradeed to the custom program it would occasionally let the SES light flicker. I was finally convinced to change to a mechanical control means when someone pointed out the we really didn't know what the shunt was doing to the other sensors runing off the same voltage signal.....but like I said, I never had a problem.