Engine Idle Control
Originally Posted by arcturner
Jim: That's a great idea. If you figure it out, please post the details.
Project Cost: $47,560 (including truck)
Project Time: 4-6 weeks (includes truck ordering, building, & delivery time)
You will need the following:
1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions (with pictures)
Optional:2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum

1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions (with pictures)
1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear
Directions:1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear
- Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
- Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
- Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
- Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:

- Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
- Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
- Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
- Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
- Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
- Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
- Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
- Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends) as noted in this photo:

- Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
- Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
- Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
- This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.
Testing
All the following are required to enable high idle:
Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed
Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed
There are many options available (higher rpm, gas engine information, E-series, etc) and all are noted in this document I noted in my first post in this thread (thanks Y-Guy).
Happy Hi-Idling!
Jim
Originally Posted by R1ZOOM
Also, where does the upfitter switch come into play? Maybe I am blind but I don't see where to wire it in?.
If you have an '05 without UpFitter switches, but do have the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (I'm guessing they may be stock on all trucks - gas or diesel), all you need is a switched 12v source (your own switch).
HTH,
Jim
Originally Posted by Lazy Cat
I'm confused. This sounds like a simple way to elevate the idle. Why does the aftermarket make a unit like the Throttle Commander ($149 U.S.) to do the same that $1 worth of parts can do?
I don't know exactly what that device does, but there are other options such as different idle levels, feedback circuits which could control features, etc. For me, 6" of wire and two butt connectors work perfectly.
Jim
Originally Posted by Lazy Cat
Does this work for a manual as well as a automatic transmission? On page 8 (a resistor chart) of the Q-108 service bulletin it says a manual trans. needs a resistor.
Get Catalog #: 271-1342 - 47K ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5
and Catalog #: 271-1339 - 22K ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5
Try the 47K first, it may work just fine. It may not get to 1200 rpm. If not, use two 22Ks in series for 44K. That should give you very close to the required 43K. A 22K single will give you 1320 rpm.
Now, if you have a Fry's Electronic around, you might be able to get the exact size.
HTH,
Jim





