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erawtik, just a shot in the dark here, mainly 'cause I'm not familiar with your truck, does the actuating rod, that is the main link between the key lock cylinder and the electrical ignition switch at the base of the column, have a lot of slop in it so that it isn't moving the switch all the way to the off position when you turn the key to "off"?
hrmm im not sure but i will go out and remove the screws holding the ign switch in and see if its in the complete off position. Im thinking of just putting a battery shutoff switch on and be done i really dont care about looks since its just a work truck. But i still have to figure out why i have no signals other thing i was thinking is just through a 3 way toggle switch in and connect the signals to it and be done with this pain is *** wireing troubles.
ok iv also discovered i dont have to have the key in the ign for the wiper blades to work so it seems like there are a few things in my truck still getting power when there not suppose to
This just confirms what we have suspected all along. The fuel guage, wipers, etc should not have power with the key off. And you unplugged the connector on the ignition switch, and the drain went out(I bet the wipers won't work either with the ignition switch plug off). So you are right there at the problem, it's just going to take some head scratching to figure it out.
other thing i was thinking is just through a 3 way toggle switch in and connect the signals to it and be done
This is a good idea, but won't work unless you add more lights to the back of the truck. The rear turnsignals and brake lights share the same filament in the bulb. So when the signals are activated, the brake circuit is actually taken away from the bulb and the turnsignal circuit is connected in it's place. This is all done in the turnsignal switch.
ok i fixed the ign powering everything. Someone before me changed ign switch and pulled 1 of the power wires out of the plug and put it back in the wrong spot which looked like it was the ground side. I put it back in right place and probe didnt light up plus gas gauge and wipers didnt have power . Now I still dont have turnsignals like i said before if i jumper a wire between 2 wires in the plug that goes into the turn signal switch my blinkers work. So do you think it is just a bad turn sig switch or problem be somewhere else? I did notice if i jump between the green/org to the white/red it blinks either left or right dont remember.
I'd see how battery #3 holds up. New battery failures isn't an uncommon thing now days. You never know how long it has been on the shelf or how much it has been thrown around before you bought it. As for the fried wire, I would cut out the bad and splice in new wire and check continuity, especially if the insulation melted.
R.I.P. battery 3....Now I'm just gettin mad, what a hassle. It's getting real weird now. I replaced the battery with #3. And left it sit overnight. Immediatly the next morning it started right up after sitting abt 10 hours. So i moved it to near my dorm. Well not even 4 hours later I went to take it to hockey, and the guage reads a big goose egg. What i don't understand is: 1. the battery sat overnight and didn't drain. 2. I let it sit for 4-5 hours, and it's dead. 3. From the time i replaced the battery to the time I last drove it, the guage read a constant 12 volts. It went from 12 to 0 in just hours. A friend who is a mechanic, but is also 4 hours away, said it could be a regulator possibly? Can anyone verify this? He's a Chevy guy who didn't actually look at the truck since hes across the state, but I trust he knows his stuff. any additional help would be extremely welcomed and appreciated, I'm startin to lose it here.
disconnect neg clip the probe to the neg then touch probe to neg post if it light up bright start going through elec stuff like unplug reg then probe it again and see if the light dims. All this with key off. If no luck there start pulling fuses works best if you have a helper.