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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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Battery still going dead

Well after couple days the battery is dead. I done the probe light test with neg off and it shines but dim. Only thing i dont understand is there is no radio so there should be nothing that is drawing power so the light should be out completly. So im assuming i still have a short somewhere correct? And now turn signals dont work, hazards work and tail lights all work.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 09:29 PM
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I think you where on top of it before when you cut that certain main wire, and the light went out. But you found that wire at the fuse box, cut it there, and the light stayed on. It's obvious this wire splits off somewhere and powers other parts of the truck. I am not sure, but still think it may power the ignition switch. If you do not agree, then try to trace the wire to see where else it splits off.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 10:34 PM
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so you are thinking if i change ign switch that might cure the current problem and the old problem of fuel gauge? Or you saying its in the wires to the ign switch?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 10:59 PM
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I haven't found what kind of vehicle you have, but a good place to start is disconnecting the voltage regulator and/or alternator.
a bad regulator can cause a battery drain as well as a shorted diode in an alternator.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 11:21 PM
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here is my old thread you can see whats been done


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=291616
And im tried both those FSC but thanks for the input
 
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by erawtik
so you are thinking if i change ign switch that might cure the current problem and the old problem of fuel gauge? Or you saying its in the wires to the ign switch?
I do not recommend buying a switch yet. I think you should just un-plug the connector on it. The connector will have wires that feed the switch, and wires that leave the switch. Pulling the plug off will physically separate the incoming power from the outgoing power. If the light goes out when you do this, then you know that either the switch is in the wrong position mechanically, or there is something wrong electrically inside the switch.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 05:51 PM
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Since you have already tried the alt., did you disconnect it or test it? If it wasn't tested, have someone test it and the battery. Bad diodes in alt. will drain one. Also, try a different battery. I just replaced one that would test as good, but leave the radio on with truck off for just 15 minutes and it was dead. It had bad cells, but would not turn up on the tester.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 07:08 PM
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Do you think the ign switch could be the cause of the turn signals not working or should i just start looking at other wires? Well battery is dead completly like i said the probe was lighting up dim and i have no radio. Well i pulled the ign switch and the probe went out so im gonna replace that along with the key tomorrow. So now you think i might need a new turn signal unit? Is there any way of testing them?
 

Last edited by erawtik; Oct 11, 2004 at 08:01 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 06:33 PM
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Well i put a new ign switch and key in and it didn not fix any problems the gas gauge still reads with key out. And the probe light still shines so there is something getting power but like i said the light goes out completly with the ign switch unplugged so its something that gets power off the switch. I can live with the gas gauge since i have a toggle to turn the gauge off and on but something else is still getting power when i turn the gas gauge off. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 05:32 PM
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Anybody with suggestions??????????????
 
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 11:05 PM
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Well i pulled the ign switch and the probe went out
The only suggestion I have now is the ignition switch is not centered. How did it go with the centering pin on the new switch? Is the linkage messed up that goes to the switch?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 05:48 PM
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no went right together
 
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FSC
I haven't found what kind of vehicle you have, but a good place to start is disconnecting the voltage regulator and/or alternator.
a bad regulator can cause a battery drain as well as a shorted diode in an alternator.
My battery's been draining too. My first one drained, and I was told my battery was bad. so i got a new one, I drove it for a lil over a week, and it too died. I took it to have it recharged, and they said the battery had a bad cell. Is it possible my truck is screwed up, and the truck is messing up the batteries? I'm on my third one now, luckily this one was free since the other one was messed up. So far after 2 days the voltage is staying steady. I have a relay on the pass side that got messed up when I tried to jump the first battery. I melted a smaller wire (12 ga maybe) and I reconnected it. could this relay be fried and that is what's causing my drain?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 08:21 PM
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I'd see how battery #3 holds up. New battery failures isn't an uncommon thing now days. You never know how long it has been on the shelf or how much it has been thrown around before you bought it. As for the fried wire, I would cut out the bad and splice in new wire and check continuity, especially if the insulation melted.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 08:28 PM
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ok iv also discovered i dont have to have the key in the ign for the wiper blades to work so it seems like there are a few things in my truck still getting power when there not suppose to. I also replaced the turn signal switch and i still have no signals. But if i jumper a wire between the turn signal wires in the plug the signals work so im wondering if its possible that i may of just got a bad turn signal switch. But this still isnt solving why everything is getting power with key off which is still running my battery dead. Im almost at the point of just finding a new body this a is a bunch of bs.
 
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