Yes, the C-8AEH heads can be fitted with the CJ size valves. I wonder if you could use rubber coated steel shim head gaskets with aluminum heads?... I wouldn't just limit yourself to Crane or Comp cams, I would maybe take a look at Erson, Engle (I don't know if they ever made many cams for the FE but it's worth a look), Isky, SSI (which is in the PAW ads), or maybe have Clay Smith, Crane or any of the cam manufacturers cut you a custom cam for your application. It looks like you will be putting a fair chunk into this engine so why not have a cam custom made for it so that it reaches it's full potential?... I am thinking about having Lazer cams make one for my 390 to replace the Edelbrock Performer-Plus cam.

 

Well this build will only cost about 3000 dollars even if i used alluminum heads so im not to worried about the price. But i think that the cams ive been looking at pretty much take the build to the limits...as far as long rods are concerned. I dont think i will have much luck finding a piston thats 1.932, but a piston thats 1.816 I know i can get but i have to use the long rods, which Im thinking will only put up with 350hp and im looking at around 370(with the dd2k estimate that is). I think every thing hinges on the pistons and rods and how much power those long rods can handle.

 

It's not really power that kills the long rods, it's rpm. Keep it below about 5500 and I think it'll be fine.

I agree that with cast heads a dual pattern is more desirable, but with edelbrock heads you dont need a dual pattern, and a single pattern should work good. However, DD2k still shows significant gains with a dual pattern over a single pattern with edelbrock head flow numbers.

 

Well if you are concerned about the rods, then a good idea would be to polish the beams and have them shot peened, and stick some good ARP rod bolts in it and then you may not have near as much concern about them. I think other guys in here will agree that this is a good idea in any mild to wild build as it strengthens the rod, and could eliminate the possibility of a 22 to 34 year old rod bolt "letting go" and it gives you peace of mind that the critical areas are stronger.

 

Also make sure and align the oil passage holes that go to the top main bearings as these are usually quite a ways off from the factory, drill out the hole from the oil filter adapter (can't remember exactly what size at the moment) and chamfer the inlet and outlet. I sometimes wonder about the actuall insurance of using the larger entry oil filter adapter and when you do (I did and then you have to use a shorter version of the Napa 1515 oil filter part #1068 I believe, I don't think the shorter oil filter issue is a big deal) but maybe it is critical. Another alternative would be to use a remote oil filter adapter/ and cooler which would be the way to go I think. I also seem to remember some oil passage mod. to allow more oil to the back main bearing (I didn't do this mod and wonder how necessary it is, I didn't do it at the time because in all honesty I didn't quite understand it at the time and thought maybe it was for solid lifter conversions into hyd. lifter blocks but I am sure one of the more knowledgeable guys may correct me on this one). Another tip that may be a good idea is to paint the insides of the engine so the oil drains back faster to the pan (not necessarilly necessary but probably not a bad idea if it is done right and the right paint is used although I am not sure what kind of paint they use for that). Finally (with cast heads anyway, not sure with aluminum heads, And I have seen some heavy duty rockershafts with a quote/unquote "smallest oil passage possible" in them so a guy will have to do some asking and research there if you use those type of shafts and/ or aluminum heads) restrict the amount of oil to the rockershafts. There are many different ways to go about this so just ask if you don't know.

 

Yea I agree with the oil mods there a must with the cast heads. I think ratsmoker covers those on his webpage. But what heads should i use...? C8AE-H or C3AE....?

 

If you wonder what the 272 degree Energizer can do, I have one in a std bore, stock pistoned 68 390 ( 10.25 to 1 comp w the stock cast flat tops) Aside from the cam, the only other mods to this motor are a new high pressure oilpump, a few oiling mods, a factory 428PI intake topped with a list #3310 750 Holley ( 50cc accellerator pump, white sec spring) FPA shorty headers. In the 4200 lb 68 Merc Monterey it sits in with an unrebuilt C-6 and 3.70's out back with a Detroit locker, it pushes the car to mid 14 sec 1/4's, pulls up to valve float at 5500 rpms ( stock CJ spec valve springs) Idles like a stock cam, only the slightest hint of a lope when cold. Also runs on 89 octane gas. I personally never believed in dual pattern cams for FE's they just never had the restricted exhaust ports some say they do. The restriction they had was the crappy manifolds.

 

Thats pretty good considering my 68 f-100 only weighs about 4200 lbs. So your red line is 5500 rpm's? I think 5500rpm is about perfect for this build It will be a 4spd probly 3.50 gears so I think that either cam will be good. I just plan on running different heads and i noticed dsc has some powerflo heads that they sell that look pretty good for 1,100 dollars It says their ported and polished so they probobly flow better than stock I just dont know which pair to go for because they both can have CJ valves in them. But they look good considering all the machine work is done so all i have to do is ship them to myself and bold them on.

BTW: has anyone ever put any really good hp through a set of piston that are stock from napa? I know baddad has got to be pushing around 350 hp.

 

Well thanks for the info guys I'll look around and see what i can come up with.

 

I'm running the silvolites are a keith black hyperuetectic pistons. Drag raced for 2 years running ~350hp without any problems. Still have ~140lbs/cylinder.

 

Are you going to polish the beams on your rods? (supposed to strengthen them 25 to 40% I think, maybe slightly more) What about the shot peening and ARP bolts?

 

Well thats what it's looking like, I'll have the rods renewed and use ARP hardware. I'm still baffled on the heads because I need heads with the smalles chambers possible like 64-68cc I'll probobly just get some DSC heads that are shaved down and ported.

 

Seriously though, I think that beam polishing and shot peening would be a very wise thing to do even if you aren't that worried about it. You can do the beam polishing yourself (it eliminates possible stress risers). Shot peening is probably a good idea but I don't know how much it cost so...