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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

header problems!@#$%^

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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 09:57 AM
  #16  
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gtex
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by GolferSA
Hey Greg...
Do you know if cast exhust manifolds can be ceramic coated?
Or is there a high temp powder coating?
Thanks...
I don't know! I've never seen anything done to the cast logs, except for maybe some paint. But that would have a hard time holding up. Logs get hot! Headers ger hot as well, that's why they use Ceramic or other metals (nickel/chrome) for coatings. .

You can ask around at the powdercoating places. I bet they say it's not good for exhaust levels of heat. I could be wrong....Powdercoating isn't cheap either!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 01:50 PM
  #17  
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From: Tuttle, Oklahoma
there are high temp powder coatings out there, but, ceramic coating is better for exhaust. I have a friend who had his cast iron manni's hpc coated (ceramic) inside and out, man did it make a difference in the underhood temps!! yes the ceramic coating sticks to the stock mani quite well with no burn/flake/corrosion(as long as you keep it clean) and he has been running it for about 5 years now and has yet to have a problem with it.

_Ken
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 02:03 PM
  #18  
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From: outback
[QUOTE=gtex]FPA Ford Powetrain Applications...

awesome headers, very knowledgeable about fitment.

Which headers would be for a 67 F250 CS? The 222Y for $355 or the 222Y-14 for $445? What is the '14'?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 02:09 PM
  #19  
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From: Texas Hill Country
Originally Posted by ranger240
there are high temp powder coatings out there, but, ceramic coating is better for exhaust. I have a friend who had his cast iron manni's hpc coated (ceramic) inside and out, man did it make a difference in the underhood temps!! yes the ceramic coating sticks to the stock mani quite well with no burn/flake/corrosion(as long as you keep it clean) and he has been running it for about 5 years now and has yet to have a problem with it.

_Ken
Thanks Ken...

Now I need to find the "cast iron headers" that some of the FE's (390?) came with... will probably grab the heads and exhaust manifolds. All FE heads swap out, correct? Or do I need to stay in the 352/360 range for my 352?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 02:28 PM
  #20  
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by GolferSA
Thanks Ken...

Now I need to find the "cast iron headers" that some of the FE's (390?) came with... will probably grab the heads and exhaust manifolds. All FE heads swap out, correct? Or do I need to stay in the 352/360 range for my 352?

For the most part, the heads are the same and will interchange without issue. You don't want any big valve heads if you're running the standard bore, 4.0 or 4.05". And there are some heads with a different exhaust bolt pattern. I think they called them the GT heads. earch the FE foru mfor more baout heads...there's been plenty of discussion there.

the cast iron headers will run you $400+ on ebay. Good luck finding them anywhere else. A dirty old pair just went for $426 on ebay. I would just as soon pay for the FPA. I'm sure they flow better.

As for the questions about which FPA to get, call Stan at FPA. He's very good with FEs and the old trucks as well. if you have an option, spring for the heavy duty flange (3/8"). You shouldn't have any warping or sealing issues with these.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 02:49 PM
  #21  
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two years ago I found a set of the factory hedders at the muscle car ranch swap meet in chickasha, oklahoma. the guy wanted $500 for them and they had already been black ceramic coated......ooooh, they were nice. but I was poor then, so someone else got then
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 04:48 PM
  #22  
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From: "Islander"
Thorley headers, love hate, mostly love

Goodold71, I have a set of Thorley headers that i purchased 5 years ago before he sold the company. They needed alittle tig welding, grinding and cleanup before getting HPC inside and out. The headers fit great on the engine, ports match perfect but the collector on the right pointed into the trans pan rail.The left pointed at a different angle but not straight to the rear. Quality control sucks. I had to machine the collector extension stub out of the flange and add two mandrel bent pipe pieces to each side to aim to the rear. See my photos in the exhaust section under "Beemer Nut". Been told the name lives on but quality dosen't. This is on a 2 wheel drive 68 CS. I had to remove the motor mount nut and rock the engine over to install the headers on the left,tight fit with the Bendix box. On the right it's a juggling act between header and starter, three hands. Once done they are great without any leaks, i have copper header and collector gaskets. Carl.....o&o>.........
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #23  
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the cast iron headers will run you $400+ on ebay. Good luck finding them anywhere else.

There is as set for $5 on ebay right now, but for a 351.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 11:19 PM
  #24  
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Hmmm, I just saw some cast iron OEM headers 390/406 a week ago going for $600+ shipping on a web site.. I just went back to stock after 25 yrs same headers. Make sure when ordering headers there for you model truck (check if you car remove starter) IN the side NOTES A,B,C, and so on with out removing the header, most you can't. The #4 port tube has to go around back bell housing side inorder to have enough room to slide the starter pass
the 3 other exh tubes..... my 2cents

orich
 
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 09:10 AM
  #25  
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From: outback
Originally Posted by orich
I just went back to stock after 25 yrs same headers. orich
Why? Has your gas milage suffered?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 09:57 AM
  #26  
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orich
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Hmm I didn't notice any lower mileage change if any it was more.I went to 2''1/2 pipes added a cross over H pipe and 2'' 1/2 in and out mufflers. I did not
have a good test area to check for mileage my last little mimin vacation.Up & down hills head wins plus a camper and all the extra junk, water food, bikes
and so on.. My truck weight is 5,300 with out camper. Per NV. DMV scales PINK-SLIP says 3,800 lbs.. my 2 cents
orich
 
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