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I just got a superunner steering kit for my 95 F250. It says you must use the superlift dropped pitman arm. Does anyone know what the differance is between the superlift arm and any other one? I would hate to spend the extra money if the one (pro Comp) that I have now will work.
Its the axle pivot brackets where stuperlift screws you in the earhole. You have to have superlift pivot brackets for the supperunner steering. You can get them from JBG for ~250.
No you don't HAVE to get the brackets....I refused to get the superlift brackets because they stink in comparison to the skyjacker brackets (the superlift kit on my other F-150 stunk in general to my new skyjacker kit)...but I still got the superrunner steering under my truck.
So I took a piece of 1/4" steel plate, welded it between the skyjacker bracket and the crossmember. Then I modified the bracket on the superlift kit, welded it to the piece of steel..and away I go.
The pitman arm doesn't matter as long as the joint at the bottom of the arm is at a proper angle.
I had the superlift pitman arm and the skyjacker pitman arm side by side and they were similar enough I just used the skyjacker one.
Slightly off topic, what is the differences in the F250 supperunner steering vs. the Bronco/F150 one? In other words would the F250 steering work on a Bronco?
i agree with you on that mustangGT i have the skyjacker brackets on mine and a friend gave me his old superrunner system i just drilled the 4 holes and mounted the idler arm no problems also i have a pro comp pitman arm on it from my first lift
Last edited by fordsrgrt; Oct 3, 2004 at 10:38 AM.
Reason: omission
Slightly off topic, what is the differences in the F250 supperunner steering vs. the Bronco/F150 one? In other words would the F250 steering work on a Bronco?
I believe it's the same steering...call up superlift (superlift.com) and ask
I believe it's the same steering...call up superlift (superlift.com) and ask
I asked them and they said NO. I was looking at a new runner for a pre85 F250 because they required mounting the idler bracket to the crossmember rather than the pivot bracket. I thought it may be "heavier" but would work since the early 80 F250s had leaf sprung d44 ttb setups. I can get it new for $259.
Edit: I'm considering getting it and making it work. I've got to do something about that y setup. But that is approaching the cost of a D44 HD for a SAS.
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