1954 F100, 239 Y, 3 speed manual trans
I converted the column shift to a floor shift and on test drive I broke off the threaded stud on the trans for first\reverse gear! All had worked good in driveway...go figure.
I had planned to pull trans to re-seal anyway, so now I have to fix broken parts or replace trans altogether...?
Does anyone know where to get trans parts for this old trans (hav'nt pulled numbers yet) , or better yet...what other transmissions would bolt up to this old 239 y block? Stick prefered but an auto might do as well. I have invested a little money in upgrades to my current motor, but might even conside uping to a larger y-block and trans combo...that way the headers would at least carry over!
ps....The Toyota power steering set up is finnally done and works GREAT!!!

Thanks for any help with parts , transmission info or leads for both, Ed

*this question also in "48 to 60" section*

 

I think you could drop in a T5 by modifying your current bellhousing. Lots of information about that swap on this board..

 

Out of curiosity, what transmission do you have in there right now? I've heard of HD 3sp transmissions that have the shifter mechanism on the top.

But to answer your question, if you have the narrow pattern bellhousing, you can use a T85, a T86, and some of the newer 4 speed 'top loader' overdrive transmissions. Some of the newer transmissions had dual bolt patterns drilled and they would fit to the bolt holes of the narrow bellhousing. They go by names like RUG, SROD, and 'three speed with overdrive'.

I have a RUG/OD transmission and although it doesn't have the bolt pattern for the narrow bellhousing, it looks like it would be easy to drill new holes in the transmission's flange to make it fit. I also have a SROD case with the dual patterns and it looks like a perfect fit.

Input shaft length varies between the cars and the trucks, so you need to hunt for truck-type transmissions.

The T-5 swap looks interesting, but it requires a modified (welded) bellhousing and a modified input shaft/bearing retainer and the shifter will end up going through your seat, so plan on bucket seats.

I have a friend with some S10 T-5 tail shafts and we're going to look at swapping that onto a Mustang T-5 to move the shifter forward. That may solve the shifter location problem.

For automatic transmission choices, there's the Ford-O, but there's also a way to convert to an FMX transmission.

 

Hey Pc....
Thanks for the info...I have the standard 3 sp. with the linkage on the left side...and yes, there was an option for the F100 to have the HD with the linkage on top (used in the bigger trucks in '54.)
I've narrowed my options down to two...
I am going to pull both cam and shaft assy's. and have them drilled and tapped for new studs and have a machine shop make some custom shift linkage brackets that will fit on the cam shafts keyed collar like the stock brakets did, this will take the stress off the threaded studs...or I am going to swap out for a later model three speed trans.
I've got a line on a 3 sp. out of a 64 F100, its a HD with the linkage on top and was behind a six banger...but should'nt the bolt pattern on the bell hsg. be the same as what I have? I've seen transmissions listed for use on 53 to 64 models...you would think these would mount the same?
Let me know what you think, and again thanks for the info.

Ed

 

Thanks Dantudor57 and PCMenten for responding with the advice...

I ended up welding a piece of threaded stud to the end of the shaft at the trans, made a couple of custom brackets to take any stress off the stud and repositioned the shifter to trans rods so there was no ****-eyed stress when pushing or pulling on shifter....works good and will buy some time until I'm ready to pull motor and trans for rebuild.

thanks again, Ed

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed! But i would stick with the 239 Yblock if it were me, i understand you can find a 72 ford pickup and put that rear end in it, but be sure it had a 302 as an engine, because if it had a big block FE your ratio would be worse than it is now. One user on her that has a 54 ford f100 with a 239, im not sure how he did it, but he mounted him a 1971 ford pickup manual floor shift in his, he said it was easy too..His name is Abe, your engine has plenty of power, it's ratio issues you need to be thinking about, you can also put a taller tire on the rear, that helps your ratio too, and even saves gasoline....Janet

 

I am assuming that the transmission you have is the light duty Ford 3 speed, which is a sideshift unit with a rectangular "door" cover on the side. Chekc the parts books and you will see many internal parts that are the same as those used in Flathead 3 speeds, a transmission not known for any great deal of strength.

The top shifting 3sp that has been mention refers, I believe, to the T87 HD 3sp that was used in delivery trucks and the like. Externally, it resembles the T98 HD truck 4 sp. It has large gears like the T98, and you would need that same bellhousing as the T98 uses to go with it. Being a truck transmission, this one will shift like a truck transmission.

There are two car based 3sp transmissions that will shift nicely and bolt to your bellhousing. The first one is the T89, which is the same internally as the HD car 3sp that Ford used. It was also the same box that Borg Warner based the T10 4sp on. I use one of these being my 239 and it works dandy, tho I installed a column shift because I converted from a T98 4sp.

The second car transmission is the one that is actually the modern Ford top loader 3sp. This one came on 63 and 64 pickups and would probably be the best 3sp to use, if you can find one.

All of the above mentioned transmissions will vary in length, so if you are going to swap, consider that you will have to have your driveshaft altered in length.

A final consideration in the 3sp catagory is the 3sp overdrive. Yoiu have to install the circuitry and cable linkage for it,a nd finding one in good shape can be a problem, but tthat will work great for driving on the hiway with your present gears.

In all of the above, I spoke only of transmission s that came in TRUCKS. If you decide to try a car transmission, then you have a different problem to additionally consider, besides those mentioned above, except in one case that I'll cover at the end.

There is a small spline input shaft and a large spline one that is used mostly on trucks, this problem can be addressed by swapping clutch disks for the appropriate input shaft.

Regarding car transmissions (which also includes trucks from 1965 and up, since this is the year Ford quit using rear motor mounts on the bellhousing) you will have two issues: the transmission bolt patttern and the input shaft length. The bolt pattern is easy, since there are two: the "tall and narrow" that ford used from 1949 to 1964, and the T&C, which Ford used since. The toploaders, both 3 and 4 sp, and the SROD overdrive that was based on the toploader 4 sp, all contain enough metal to have both patterns drilled in them, as indeed many do come that way from the factory.So, if you don't have the holes in these, you can drill them yourself. This is true of others, also: I have a T10 4sp from a Mustang, and it has both patterns drilled in it from the factory.

The input shaft will be your big problem. It is this: On Ford trucks with the rear motor mounts on the bellhousing, transmissions used an input shaft 7.125" long. On cars adn trucks 1965 and later, this input shaft is only 6.5" long. You CAN bolt a car trans to your trcuk bellhousing, and it will work, but inside, only the very tip of the pilot bearing journal will enter the pilot bearing (about 1/4") and only the very ends of the splines will enter the clutch disk hub. If you think this is OK, then I'd use the ball bearing pilot bearing. I didn't think that this was reliable enough to go with, and wouldn't recommend it, tho I've heard of other s who claim that it works just fine.

For all car transmissions and the latter truck ones, you will need to fabricate a mount for the right hand side of the clutch linkage cross shaft. The truck trnasmissions, like the one you have, come with a couple of bolt bosses cast on the cover, and cars, don't have this, so you will need to figure out a solution on this matter.

The exception that I mentioned above is the bellhousing and transmissions that came on later 5.0 Mustangs. These units DID use a 7.125" input shaft, so you CAN use them with your truck bellhousing -- almost.

Two transmissions were used in the Mustangs: the SROD and the T5 5sp. The SROD is a modification of the toploader 4sp. It comes with its own internal shifter that is mounted back on the tailshaft. This means that is will be close to the seat, if not under it, in your cab, but you can get a top cover from a Jeep version of that trans which iwill have the shift leaver come right our of the top, and this should be near the stock truck 4sp lever location. The bad thing about an SROD are the horrible ratios. First is 3:1, seond is 2:1. third is 1:1 and overdrive is .7:1. You will notice the big gap between 2nd and 3rd, which is the problem with these.

The T5 will work, but has a different pattern, one which requires a modification of your bellhousing. See John Mummert on this, as he makes up a modified bellhousing you can buy on an exchange basis from him.

One more item you need to consider: thats the Input bearing retainer hole in the bellhousing, which registers the tranmission in proper alignment with the engine.

On all of the old 3sp trucks and cars, like yours, this hole is 4.675" in diameter. In the later car transmissions, the hole and bearing retainer is 4.85" in diameter. On the big truck 4sp (T98 and T18) and the HD truck 3sp (T87) the hole is 5.125" in diameter. Within a manufacterer's family, you can swap input retainers, e.tg., I can use the retainer from my T98 on my T10. Otherwise, you are looking at a trip to the machine shop. When you turn down the retainer from 4.85" to 4.675", you will be close to the edge, so you might want to consider some allen headed bolts to hold the retainer on -- the heads of these are smaller than the normal hes headed fasteners.

If you are looking at automatics, you have 3 ways to go: Flatomatic has a swap bellhousing for a C4, Bentsen has a plate that allows you to use an AOD, and you can find the stock parts for using an Ford O 3sp cast iron unit, and that will include the FMX.

 

An FMX that has the center case cast iron is a good choice or a C6 or C4, what youneed tp be looking for is a salvaged 67 ford pickup from a salvage yard, that will give you a rear end that fits, or a good ol floor shift....Janet

 

Hey it looks like John Mummert can solve my Ford T-5 against a Flathead problem with a bit of machine work. I am a new/first time user of the forum and would like to know how to contact John. Help! Mike

 

If anyone wants a good 3 speed toploader, model 303, 1963 production, I have one.

 

Mike, welcome to FTE!

Try John Mummert here: http://www.ford-y-block.com/index.html

 

HEY HOMESPUN,

Thanks for the info leading to my T-5/Flathead problem being resolved. Have a great Ford day.