driveshaft repair?
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From: rockdale usa
driveshaft repair?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Dec-02 AT 10:15 PM (EST)]I have a broken driveshaft, and am kind of confused as to what kind of driveshaft I have. I know it is not the CV type. It looks heavy duty having several u-joints with the grease fittings on them. They checked out good but on the front set there is this wierd joint with a ball like deal with a spring in it and it is toast. Where in the world would I find a replacment part like that?
Oh yeah it come off an 88 Eddie Bauer 2wd Bronc II
Oh yeah it come off an 88 Eddie Bauer 2wd Bronc II
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Connecticut
driveshaft repair?
That is a double cardan cv joint. If the shaft is "stock" part stores or even better a driveline/driveshaft rebuilding shop should be able to get one. They are a bit more difficult to replace than conventional u joints.
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From: Wilsonville Canada
driveshaft repair?
Your best bang for your buck have one made up to replace it, the CV type shaft was a poor design i know for the 4x4 bronc's u can get one ready made with normal u-joints i've seen it advertised in a 4x4 mag sorry cant help you as to which one..... If you have a UAP/NAPA store they can get em
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From: Connecticut
driveshaft repair?
If you get a conventional driveshaft like mentioned by "blacklightningf150" you will have to adjust the rear pinion angle to eliminate vibration. The angle at the t-case must be equal and opposite the angle at the rear pinion. I did this on my Bronco2, got the driveshaft from what used to be Connecticut Driveshaft, they are now called Fleetpride. If I remember it was about $250. Tom Woods is another source. This may be the best way to go as stated by blacklightning.
Mark
Mark
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From: UT
driveshaft repair?
>If you get a conventional driveshaft like mentioned by
>"blacklightningf150" you will have to adjust the rear pinion
>angle to eliminate vibration. The angle at the t-case must
>be equal and opposite the angle at the rear pinion. I did
>this on my Bronco2, got the driveshaft from what used to be
>Connecticut Driveshaft, they are now called Fleetpride. If I
>remember it was about $250. Tom Woods is another source.
>This may be the best way to go as stated by blacklightning.
>Mark
Expect to have to replace mine as well. Doesn't sound to difficult, but how do you adjust the rear pinion angle?
>"blacklightningf150" you will have to adjust the rear pinion
>angle to eliminate vibration. The angle at the t-case must
>be equal and opposite the angle at the rear pinion. I did
>this on my Bronco2, got the driveshaft from what used to be
>Connecticut Driveshaft, they are now called Fleetpride. If I
>remember it was about $250. Tom Woods is another source.
>This may be the best way to go as stated by blacklightning.
>Mark
Expect to have to replace mine as well. Doesn't sound to difficult, but how do you adjust the rear pinion angle?
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From: Connecticut
driveshaft repair?
You adjust the pinion angle by installing degree shims between the leaf springs and the axle perches to rotate the axle. The shims are manufactured at different angles, they look like a wedge. The u-joint angles at the transfer case and at the rear pinion should be equal on a driveshaft with one u-joint (single cardan) at each end. If you look at your driveshaft it will more than likely be angled down with respect to the flange/yoke at the transfer case, at the rear pinion the driveshaft must be angled up by the same amount with respect to the rear axle pinion flange/yoke. It may be close enough as is, but if its more than a few degrees off it will vibrate. I think I ended up installing shims that pointed the rear pinion down by about 4 degrees. You can measure the angles with a dial protractor. The one I used I purchased at Sears.
Mark
Mark
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
If you already have a double cardan style driveshaft, I wouldn't replace it with a single cardan one. From your description you don't have the stock Rezeppa style CV driveshaft, so that's good.
My best advice for finding that "ball" thing in the double cardan end would be to take it into Napa or a driveline shop and show them the driveshaft and say, "I need this part" and let them find it. They probably won't be able to look it up on the computer, because that's an aftermarket shaft, but double cardan u-joints are very common, and pretty standardized, so they should be able to find the replacement for it.
My best advice for finding that "ball" thing in the double cardan end would be to take it into Napa or a driveline shop and show them the driveshaft and say, "I need this part" and let them find it. They probably won't be able to look it up on the computer, because that's an aftermarket shaft, but double cardan u-joints are very common, and pretty standardized, so they should be able to find the replacement for it.
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