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Are oil changes really this difficult?? I mean, come on! WHo in their right mind put the drain plug directly above the cross member??? Which side of the cross member will the oil run this time? Next time...ramps under front of truck for oil...ramps under rear of truck for filter... no no..wait...
Ok...enough ranting. Anyone have any tricks to help clean up this messy job? Last night I did my 3rd oil change since I have had this truck and I am disgusted at the oil I dumped all over my garage floor. Maybe I will just park it in the street next time and let it run down the storm drain!
I figured this one out yearssssssssssssssssssssssss ago.
I got a piece of sheetmetal and bent it down over the crossmember, then bent the sides up to keep oil from running out. This directs the oil down into the pan perfect
I keep my little gadget hanging with my oil pans for each time I need it. For the life of me I have not figured out WHY they put the plug in the side . I have had trucks with it in the middle, but it seems like maybe a couple "car" pans got put in the mix somewhere and it really makes a mess when it comes to changing oil.
Maybe if I remember tonight I'll take a picture of my "widget" and post it for everyone.
That would be great...although I think I know what to do...great idea. OR maybe I will us my "sucker" that I use for my Honda Aquatrax to suck the oil up through the dip stick. The shape of the oil pan is a bit bizzare, don't you think? With the sump being forward and so close to the cross member.. Oh well. Not like I can complain about it now..the truck is OLD!
Anyone use a remote oil filter re-locator on their older fords? Would be nice if the filter wasn't sideways. opening side up is the best....Upside down isn't even so bad because it will drain back into the engine... but this sideways sillyness just dumps oil everywhere.
Last edited by michaelbrainardatwor; Sep 15, 2004 at 03:36 PM.
I use newspaper on top of the crossmember and a Blitz alum drip pan under the crossmember/oil filter. No oil on the crossmember when done. Also put some newspaper under the oil filter. Think of the crossmember as a shield against damage to your oil pan/sump. ;-)
Cheers,
Will
67 F350 Crew - all original survivor
68 F250 CS
72 F250 CS - being restored
I have used a remote filter (use at least 3/4" hose) and I also removed the pan and brazed in a drain bung on the front of the oil pan. That took all the misery out of it immediately, and cut time in half.
well i dont know what im doing different here, but the oil from mine does hit the crossmember, but it all runs in the pan. i've never got any on the floor.
Just a few weeks ago installed a remote filter setup on my 390. A little over $40 for the whole kit. Used a 2"X2" 90 degree angle bracket to hang filter bracket on inside of frame behind crossmember. It is now in the upright position. Prob be a slight drainage of oil in hose over filter, but soon will change hose barbs coming out of top of filter bracket, to 90 degree barbs. That will keep hose level with filter instead of coming into the top of it. Last yr installed remote kit on daughters Honda. With supercharger hanging on back of V-Tech, oil changes were next to impossible. Brought filter out to front of radiator area.
I looked at that Fram Sure Drain plug tonight and may go that route myself. I've got the vertical oil filter adapter from a car which is great but you have to use a shorter filter to keep off the crossmember.
I put a 90 degree elbow from the plumbing section of Lowes into the drain plug hole and then extended it down at an angle with the plug on the end, so that now it drains out and over the cross member.
I did the same thing... believe it's 3/4" pipe fittings. 90 degree elbow out of the pan, 8" pipe nipple over the cross member and out the back, teflon tape on the threads, hand screw on a pipe cap. No mess, no drips, nor errors.
Total parts................. Under $5.00
Time spent building... 15 minutes
Ease of use................ Priceless
Originally Posted by Cracker289
I put a 90 degree elbow from the plumbing section of Lowes into the drain plug hole and then extended it down at an angle with the plug on the end, so that now it drains out and over the cross member.
I have a remote set up on my '69 F100 with the 428CJ motor. I use a Transdapt adapter that bolts right to block instead of oil filter adapter. I then used Aeroquip type braided hoses to connect everything. I bought the kit for my 302 truck, it had a screw on adapter for the smallblock. Once I put on the FE, I bought the bolt on adapter so NO leaks.
The "factory" hoses didn't last long til they blew out, so when I put on other truck I used braided hoses and now 12 yrs later it's still going strong.
I hung the filters right under/behind the front bumper...kinda like buck teeth if you will . Everyone thought I would tear them off, but 12 yrs later...still going strong. I don't off-road it so never an issue. When changing the oil I just slide a pan under the bumper and drop off the filters
The crazy part is........after I mounted the filters and everyone thought it was stupid...........I noticed that other people starting doing the same thing . Fads.......easy to start...
Oh, ya, as for oil on the crossmember. The first oil change on my '67 was done at buddies shop on a lift and I did not have my widget. The oil got into everywhere. A few months later I am cutting the old front shocks off and a couple sparks got blown under the crossmember. No biggie right?? WRONG. I soon hear this sizzling noise and notice the oil is on FIRE . It was inside the crossmember . A fire extingusher was used and no harm done. Since then I always make sure no oil gets inside the crossmember.
Last edited by Freightrain; Sep 16, 2004 at 07:49 AM.
Yeah, what a dumb design. When I got my '71 4x4, that was one of the best things about it (compared to my 4x2) since I no longer had to deal with it like on my '71 4x2. I was going to get one of those Fram kits, but never go around to it.
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