The instructions in my carb. (2100) rebuild kit stated that for a '73 with a 360 the little diaphram should be adjusted to open the bottom edge of the choke plate 11/64" immediately after the engine starts. That is evidently way too rich for my stock '76 F250 4X4 360 because it ran like crap during warm-up and it wouldn't idle at all because it was way too rich. I adjusted the screw regulating that diaphram to open the choke about 1/4" immediately after start-up and my truck now runs much, much better during warm-up. NE1 else have a similiar experience or an explanation?

 

It's probably too warm right now for the choke to be closed that much. This winter, you may have to adjust it down a little bit for easier starting, if it gets cold out here again this year.

 

Thanks Jared. I guess I'll make those adjustments depending on how it runs during warm-up. I'm debating whether to put a new EGR valve on (my old one was stuck slghtly open and I spent a ton of time before discovering that that was a major driveability problem) or leave it blocked off as I have it now as it runs very well. I think I'll also convert to an electric automatic choke to get rid of that tube from the exhaust manifold to the choke. NE thoughts?

 

How Did You Block Off The Egr..and After You Do That Can You Get Rid Of The Other Smog Stuff??

 

I blocked off the EGR by installing a 1/8" aluminum plate between the valve and the carb. plate it bolts to and then plugged the vacuum hose that went to the EGR valve. I didn't change anything else. My truck is '76 F250 and has, as the only other emission device I am aware of, a pcv valve. I did this because my truck ran like crap and after much screwing around I determined the cause to be a stuck open EGR valve. I may put a new EGR valve on it so it will run cooler, at least that is what one of my Ford books says.

 

Does That Make Your Truck Run Hotter???

 

No, my truck doesn't seem to run any hotter with the EGR valve blocked off but I might put a new one on just to see how it runs since it is supposed to create cooler cylinder temps. I'll have to eat my words. My '76 F250 4X4 360 C6 Motorcraft 2100 carb. truck still runs very crapy when it is cold, i.e. almost no power. I think it is too rich during warm-up.. Once it gets warmed up it runs great.
Since I'm pretty sure the EGR valve, which I blocked off and which improved the driveability alot, only gets vacuum and opens after the engine is warm, it doesn't seem likely that that is the problem. I'm not sure what to try next. I rebuilt the carb, set the float, installed a new coil, cap, rotor, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel filter, air filter, checked the timing, checked the plugs and wires, tested the vacuum spark advance and adjusted the plunger which opens the choke part way as soon as the engine starts to about 1/4" open instead of the 11/64" the carb. rebuild instructions call for. When I first start it in the morning I depress the accelerator to the floor to set the choke, take my foot of the gas and it starts right up and idles fast, as it should, but when I depress the accelerator and let it up and attempt to drive up my driveway it has zero power. If I get a good run at it I can make it but it really struggles. It's as if the choke needs to open wider sooner and I have allready made an adjustment to accomplish that. I thought that solved the problem but I didn't. HELP!

 

Egr valves not working right will make your vehicle run like crap.

My 82-460 has had issues idleing twice. Both times egr valve. 1st time I replaced it. Second time, I took the egr off I noticed a little piece of metal (the egr plate is rusting and flaking off pieces of metal) holding the valve open.

I need to take off the egr plate and bead blast out all the little rusty pieces....

 

Thanks for the reply, Dave. I'm going to do some of the same.