Rear Spring Hanger Replacement
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 432
Likes: 1
From: up state N.Y.
They are the same side to side but they aren't designed to saport weight upside down like your talking about.Go to Dunks paformance and they sell a heavy duty shackle flip hanger for this type lift.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
rear leaf spring replacement
Hello DJJ,
I recently replaced the whole leaf-spring assembly on my 1992 F150 4X4. Although I personally did not have to remove the fuel tank, it may be because I have dual tanks, and so my rear tank is not a full 30-something gallon.
Both of my shackles had broken free by the time I noticed it, and so the leaf-springs were against the bottom of the bed on both sides, which there are now dents there.
I picked up two farm jacks from Harbor Freight, and some long 1/2" studs and nuts from Home Depot, and lifted the truck up by the rear bumper. Be very careful and make sure you bolt the jacks together for stability.
I used a 4" angle grinder to get the rivets off, along with a good pry bar to remove the brackets from the frame. For a person who is mechanically challenged like myself, this got the brackets off clean.
I first bolted the brackets, then rear shackles to the brackets, then in went the leaf-springs, then the U-bolts. If I was doing it over, I might try doing it in the opposite order (U-bolts first, then brackets to the frame) because I really struggled, and still am not sure how I managed to get them on correctly.
One thing I did notice is the rust on the frame was all surface rust only, and so I got most of it off with a circular wire brush in a drill and covered that section of the frame on both sides with POR-15 paint.
Good Luck with your mission!
I recently replaced the whole leaf-spring assembly on my 1992 F150 4X4. Although I personally did not have to remove the fuel tank, it may be because I have dual tanks, and so my rear tank is not a full 30-something gallon.
Both of my shackles had broken free by the time I noticed it, and so the leaf-springs were against the bottom of the bed on both sides, which there are now dents there.
I picked up two farm jacks from Harbor Freight, and some long 1/2" studs and nuts from Home Depot, and lifted the truck up by the rear bumper. Be very careful and make sure you bolt the jacks together for stability.
I used a 4" angle grinder to get the rivets off, along with a good pry bar to remove the brackets from the frame. For a person who is mechanically challenged like myself, this got the brackets off clean.
I first bolted the brackets, then rear shackles to the brackets, then in went the leaf-springs, then the U-bolts. If I was doing it over, I might try doing it in the opposite order (U-bolts first, then brackets to the frame) because I really struggled, and still am not sure how I managed to get them on correctly.
One thing I did notice is the rust on the frame was all surface rust only, and so I got most of it off with a circular wire brush in a drill and covered that section of the frame on both sides with POR-15 paint.
Good Luck with your mission!
Last edited by burnse; Mar 7, 2014 at 10:33 AM. Reason: correction
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 99
Likes: 5
From: Lewisville, Texas
You guys are all so damn capable. I need to get this done but want to pay someone for it.
What kind of a shop should I search for? Welder, alignment? I'm in Dallas Fort Worth area.
Thanks,
Matt . 96 F-150
What kind of a shop should I search for? Welder, alignment? I'm in Dallas Fort Worth area.
Thanks,
Matt . 96 F-150
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
I didn't drop either of my tanks to do this, but if I had a Bronco of similar vintage with a what, 35 gallon tank in the rear only, I may have had to.
I cut the rivets off with a grinder and hammered the remainder out with a 3 pounder. Also, I used 2 farm jacks from Harbor Freight (which are mechanical) under the rear bumper because there was no @#$%ing way a floor jack was going to get the truck as high in the rear as I needed. Use some bolts as a safety and attach the farm jacks together with some 1/2", very long studs that you can get from Home Depot for stability, otherwise, it'll fall! You don't want that.
Also make sure your rear bumper is on good and solid!
Thank you for the compliment earlier, but if you saw me working on this truck, you might change your mind about the word 'capable'.
Personally, I use the word 'cheap'...
I cut the rivets off with a grinder and hammered the remainder out with a 3 pounder. Also, I used 2 farm jacks from Harbor Freight (which are mechanical) under the rear bumper because there was no @#$%ing way a floor jack was going to get the truck as high in the rear as I needed. Use some bolts as a safety and attach the farm jacks together with some 1/2", very long studs that you can get from Home Depot for stability, otherwise, it'll fall! You don't want that.
Also make sure your rear bumper is on good and solid!
Thank you for the compliment earlier, but if you saw me working on this truck, you might change your mind about the word 'capable'.
Personally, I use the word 'cheap'...
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
We got a place in Hamden, CT called Superior Spring. I got all the parts, including the leaf springs there, and the parts cost over $500.
The good news? Everything fit like a glove. Excellent quality! If you were in CT, I would recommend them highly! They will do the work also, but I chose self torture and did it myself...
The good news? Everything fit like a glove. Excellent quality! If you were in CT, I would recommend them highly! They will do the work also, but I chose self torture and did it myself...
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