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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 10:22 PM
  #1  
RyanMiller's Avatar
RyanMiller
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From: Long island NY
Air compressor water separator

Hi, Who makes a good water seperator? i have a 60 gallon 10 cfm compressor and when i'm running a die grinder with a wire wheel the craftsman water seperator i have cant keep up and my hands get all wet. I have it setup with a 100 foot hose connected to the compresor running through a concrete wall, and that is mostly coiled up, and i use about 20 when im working. if i ran it hard pipe would that effect the water? also, should i keep the seperator close to the tank, or near the tool?
Thanks,
Ryan
 
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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 11:22 PM
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I own a couple of the emglo wheelbarrel type comps and never have problems with water. seperators mount right after the pump, I think they're about $30. Helps to drain main tank every other week or so especially if you keep it stored outside. If I remember I'll try to get a part # tomorrow
 
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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 11:35 PM
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There are a number of threads here on water separation. Some are in the archives. Your compressor tank and distribution line setup is important for condensing the moisture and trapping it for removal. Your tank design does most of the separation. Your coiled hose is probably full of water and needs to be drained and blown out.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 11:46 PM
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Bikeitswift
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From: Canyon Lake Texas
I installed one of the Harbor Freight automatic drains that purges your compressor tank each time you start it up (runs with the drain open until 20 psi, then snaps shut). All brass, all fittings, about $8.00 when they put them on sale. A really nice unit...I couldn't figure how to hook it up correctly with the instructions, but it end up I needed to "T" into the small line that goes between my automatic pressure switch and the unit. I installed 30 feet of galvanized iron pipe, water seperators at both end, PLUS 15 feet of coiled copper at the far end, PLUS, 1 foot drop downs with ball valves in the end...all for my Plasma Cutter's enjoyment...but I haven't gotten a drop in any of the drains because that little automatic drain valve works so well!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 04:04 AM
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I haven't figured out if one of those drains would work on my compressor either. Mine is pressurized all the time. The description and directions are typically poor.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 12:22 PM
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68torino
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From: South Dakota
At work with 75 horse twin screw compressors and refrigerated driers we still get a little water. So we use 1 micron filters with auto float drains. Water level comes up, water drains. Just need to clean them from time to time. You can also use the manual drain ones as they have a sight tube so you can see the level. Run any where from $30 to $100. Hard plumb in line to your output line. They carry all sizes to match the size of pipe you're running.
We also run coalasing filters to squeeze out oil mists these are any where from 1 micron to 5 micron, big filters that go for $150 a filter element but this is in a commercial setting.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 02:16 PM
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Mike W
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From: Central Kali
Use a separator near your tool location.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 04:40 PM
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From: Long island NY
I think i am going to run some hard coper pipe then after it comes through the wall ill put a water seperator, then my regulator. ill use my quick disconect for the regulator and hose. That shouldnt have problems with water pooling up.

when i run the hard pipe, do i NEED a rubber hose section?

i was looking through the search for water seperator, and it just came with a million things on car air conditioning. is there a way to tell the search to only look in this fourm?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 05:09 PM
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You need a section of rubber hose for a vibration isolator.

Use the advanced search for more search options.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 07:00 PM
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I run 30' of copper pipe along the wall off the air compressor, in a zig zag sloping (5 degrees) pattern on the wall. The copper is good conductor, and that amount of pipe the watrer separate out nicely. At the end of the run I have a drop leg with a ss ball valve on the bottom, I take my air off about 12" up from the valve and periodically (hand) dump the water out. I also drain the bottom of the tank too.
This trick I read about in a painting magazine.
I can take a picture if it would help?
Best,
 
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 07:24 PM
  #11  
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From: Long island NY
Yeah, it sounds intersting to see.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 11:56 AM
  #12  
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From: chicopee us
Ya send a picture, I'm setting up my new garage and need some ideas for dry air!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 06:37 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by RyanMiller
Yeah, it sounds intersting to see.
Originally Posted by tgregoire
Ya send a picture, I'm setting up my new garage and need some ideas for dry air!
Okay guys, I have set up three pics under "Garage - air compressor thread pics" in my gallery (until they make me take it down). I think I have about 25' of copper pipe actually, and I think the artcle said >30' for steel pipe and >18' for copper (disipates heat better). I have also separated the supply into two lines, one for painting and body work with a regulator, the other with an automatic oiler for the air tools.

Hope this helps!
 

Last edited by L-N-OR; Sep 20, 2004 at 06:46 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 06:40 PM
  #14  
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Bikeitswift
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From: Canyon Lake Texas
Cheap and Dry

Making no excuses for the shape my shop stays in, here is my setup and it runs BONE DRY here in humid south central Texas. I have yet to get one drop out of the two ball check valves I placed at each end of the 25 foot long iron pipe, or from the two water seperators. It seems the HF Automatic Tank Drain does such a good job none ever gets to the rest of the system I'll answer any questions.





Oh, well, I guess its not going to take my Photobucket pictures, sorry 'bout that!
 

Last edited by Bikeitswift; Sep 20, 2004 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 07:51 PM
  #15  
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From: Phoenix, Az
Your links have HTTP:// twice. Thats why they don't work.
 
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