Power Window Woes
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Power Window Woes
Mine is a '95 AWD Aerostar. Recently the DS power window motor/mechanism started skipping and jumping teeth. I pulled the door panel to get a look at the motor only to find it stuck way down inside a sealed door frame. There are no obvious attachment points. I felt around down in there but couldn't get a sense of how to dissassemble this beast. Anyone have a clue as to how to get the motor and mechanism out of the door?
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Joined: Sep 2004
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how to get the power window motor out
Your not gona like this if it's the same as my 91 Aerostar!
Only way I could see removing my pwr window motor was to drill out 4 pop rivits that held the arms and crank that raise and lower the window. The motor is fastened to that with three 5/16 bolts before it is rivited into the door.
Here's hoping yours isn't the same.
Only way I could see removing my pwr window motor was to drill out 4 pop rivits that held the arms and crank that raise and lower the window. The motor is fastened to that with three 5/16 bolts before it is rivited into the door.
Here's hoping yours isn't the same.
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More info
Just found an old post that indicates you may not have to remove the whole window track to unbolt the power window motor. It was posted as follows:
"I pulled the motor on my 94 Aerostar. I had to drill three holes. There are some small dimples in the metal. Just drill them out. Then you can take a socket set and remove three bolts. The motor comes right out."
So maybee that's a better way. Now, as I said before the three bolts are a 5/16" socket (8mm is the same). You will need to drill your holes large enough to fit the socket in.
I'm gona take a closer look at my van tomorrow and see if those dimples are there. The one I removed the motor from was my parts van so I didn't mind drilling out the rivits for the track.
"I pulled the motor on my 94 Aerostar. I had to drill three holes. There are some small dimples in the metal. Just drill them out. Then you can take a socket set and remove three bolts. The motor comes right out."
So maybee that's a better way. Now, as I said before the three bolts are a 5/16" socket (8mm is the same). You will need to drill your holes large enough to fit the socket in.
I'm gona take a closer look at my van tomorrow and see if those dimples are there. The one I removed the motor from was my parts van so I didn't mind drilling out the rivits for the track.
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Thanks Gunner,
It's great to have someone to chat with about this. Do let me know if you see these target "dimples" on the panel. I noted the rivets and was afraid of having to drill those out and then coming up with a new fastener for the mechanism. The toothed gear of the mechanism is steel and the teeth seem to be in fine shape. I assume the teeth on the motor gear are shot since when I push the toothed mechanism towards the inner door panel it grabs and runs pretty smoothly. The motor otherwise runs strong. I hope when I get it out that I can simply replace that blown cog.
I put it all back together with new fasteners for now since it's about to turn rainy here soon and my wife (the primary operator), prefers to have the car buttoned up, so this'll have to wait until a get another free day.
It's great to have someone to chat with about this. Do let me know if you see these target "dimples" on the panel. I noted the rivets and was afraid of having to drill those out and then coming up with a new fastener for the mechanism. The toothed gear of the mechanism is steel and the teeth seem to be in fine shape. I assume the teeth on the motor gear are shot since when I push the toothed mechanism towards the inner door panel it grabs and runs pretty smoothly. The motor otherwise runs strong. I hope when I get it out that I can simply replace that blown cog.
I put it all back together with new fasteners for now since it's about to turn rainy here soon and my wife (the primary operator), prefers to have the car buttoned up, so this'll have to wait until a get another free day.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Dallas, Texas
The gear's are plastic I thought? At least mine were. The Dealer seals the kit for $15.00 and it comes with new Rivits. Also make sure you put that tube of Teflon on it or it will burn-up in 3 mins. flat.
I used bolts and teflon locking nuts just in case I had to remove it again.
I got a 3/8" hole saw from a snap-on dealer that is used to cut tack welds to make access holes to the bolts inside. Made it nice, clean and fast.
I used bolts and teflon locking nuts just in case I had to remove it again.
I got a 3/8" hole saw from a snap-on dealer that is used to cut tack welds to make access holes to the bolts inside. Made it nice, clean and fast.
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Just an update
I took a look at mine and the target dimples are there. One access hole is already in the doors and the other two spots are marked with these dimples.
By drilling the dimples out to access the bolts the window track will stay in position holding the window up ( incase of a rainy day before the job is done
).
Yes the gear on the motors are plastic. He was refering to the "steel teeth" of the window track.
By drilling the dimples out to access the bolts the window track will stay in position holding the window up ( incase of a rainy day before the job is done
).Yes the gear on the motors are plastic. He was refering to the "steel teeth" of the window track.
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