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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

power window motor

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Old Jun 12, 2003 | 12:11 PM
  #1  
79bobcat81's Avatar
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Question power window motor

I HAVE A 93 F150 AND THE POWER WINDOW GOES DOWN BUT STICKS GOING BACK UP AND THE MOTOR SEEMS TO SLIP. i WOULD LIKE TO GET SOME INFO ON REPLACING THE MOTOR AND MAYBE EVEN SOME TIPS ON HOW TO GET IT OUT. I HAVE HAD THE DOOR PANEL OFF BUT WAS NOT SURE HOW TO GET THE MOTOR OUT.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2003 | 01:59 PM
  #2  
Ironpants's Avatar
Ironpants
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power window motor

Hey, my '88 F150 does the exact same thing.
I have taken the door panel off, however had not had time to look at this.
Same situation, window goes down, but only goes back up with a slight pressure on the bottom of the glass.

Can someone point us in the right direction?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2003 | 02:11 PM
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mgdhunter
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From: Spanish Fork USA
power window motor


I have an '88 F-250 that had the same problem. The gear can be replaced. The motor should still be good. I purchased a gear set at AutoZone. Works great now. It seems that the nylon peice in the gear set cracks, and then it will not lift the window. Going down, it has gravity to help.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2003 | 02:15 PM
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power window motor

that sounds like what I thought may be wrong but how do i get the motor out to work on it? Is it difficult?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2003 | 03:12 PM
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gasman6674
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power window motor

Try "Search" there have been numerous post on power window problems here. I believe there is a post that walks you thru R&R

Good Luck
 
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Old Jun 12, 2003 | 03:20 PM
  #6  
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78f3504x4
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From: Whately, Ma
power window motor

Mine was pretty easy. You need to drill 2 small holes in the metel panel to get to the nuts that hold the motor in. Took me about 45 min.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2003 | 09:20 PM
  #7  
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rebel_ford4x4
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power window motor

on my 92, i had the same problem, after removing the door panel, there was 4 rivets, which i had to drill out, then just slide the motor over to the opening in the door and remove it from the regulator. then just reverse all that to put it back in. i used bolts instead of rivets when i put it back in though.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 03:28 PM
  #8  
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power window motor

There are dimples in the sheetmetal where you have to drill the holes to get to the motor mounting screws (unless it has been changed before and the holes are already drilled). Also, I had to prop the window up by putting a piece of pvc pipe under it so that it didn't fall when I took the motor off. It much easier to get the motor out if you have small hands! I don't.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 04:12 PM
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power window motor

Yeah, just make sure if you buy the entire motor like I did for both windows to get the correct side.

The guys at the auto store are complete morons and gave me the passanger side motor for my drivers side...gave me the drivers side motor for the passanger side! I even told them three times the proper side each time I went there.

I replaced them about a year apart so needless to say it was funny and made me mad at the same time. All I did was just use the existing housing and replaced the big ring gear and motor off the new one onto my old housing.

I think I used a 3/8" bit to drill the rivets out of the panel. I used a nut driver to get the nuts out. The one on the bottom is sooo hard to get in as it keeps falling so I took some chassis grease and stuck the nut to the driver so it would not fall out.

I did get my arm stuck in the door trying to get the bolt out! I have a bear-claw for a hand, long arms, and the window fell down from its position. Once my arm was out, I had my brother hold the glass up while I swapped the motors out! lol

I wonder why Ford decided to use plastic gears for the heavy window glass...cheaper to produce I suppose.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 08:34 PM
  #10  
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aging_F150
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From: New Bern, NC
power window motor

Been there, done that....drill out the rivets and pull it all out, replace with SHORT bolts.

You may want to consider replacing the motor even if it is just the nylon gear, depending on the age and the motor condition. Unless you really like to take all that mess apart where its hard to reach and has to be done by feel. In my '87 I've replaced the gears in both sides but then had the passenger-side motor go. So now I have a extra slightly used gear.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2003 | 08:08 AM
  #11  
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power window motor

I took the motor off which was very easy thanks to the descriptions that you guys gave me. I opened it up which was also very easy and found that those plastic gears were gone. I found that I needed something to replace them with that was round and 3/8 of an inch thick. I saw where many people had used aluminum rod so that the rod would give before the other gears. I used .45 caliber muzzeloader ***** which are almost adzactly 3/8 and they are lead so they will give before the metal gears. If you look at this link you will see what I was looking at after opening up the motor. Where the pink spots are in the pic is where I put in the bullets.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 02:07 AM
  #12  
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power window motor

My window got stuck at the down position. Drilled the rivets out with some minor difficulties and removed the motor.Plugged motor back to connector and motor worked fine.However, I'm having a hell of a time getting the metal teeth on the regulator to align with the window motor.It seems that you have to use a lot of force to get this to fit back in the correct position.Does anyone else have this problem? Is there an easier way to do this. This Ford design sucks.Never had this much problem with power window assembly with my honda or maxima.Why do they even use rivets when to mount window motor when they know that it will eventually go out.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 02:30 AM
  #13  
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From: Vancouver WA
power window motor

Cheaper and easier to manufacture. Bottom line $$$.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2003 | 01:49 PM
  #14  
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power window motor

Finally got the time to check this power window problem out on my '88. Thanks to the excellent help found on this website, it was a real easy fix. On my vehicle, there was no need to drill out the rivets to take out the lifting arm for the glass. Just drill out the dimples and un bolt the 3 bolts holding the motor in place.
Real easy.

At first, I replaced the 3 plastic spacers (well replaced the chewed up remains of them) in the motor with a 3/8 steel rod cut approx 10 mm in length. That seemed to burn the motor out completly.

Went to the local auto wreckers, found a single F150 XLT. Took out both the drivers and passengers motors (door panels were already off, and the metal covers were already cut out exposing the motors - possibly they had been replaced before in that vehicle) in about 20 mins. Made sure they worked before I paid the $20 each.

Installation took all of about 20 mins per side.

Excellent help and advice on this website. Looking back, I should have NOT used steel rod for the spacers. Had I used 3/8 nylon rod or any plastic rod, I would not have had to replace the whole motor after burning it out.
 
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