better than a 10k mod.
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From: Roaring Branch, PA
better than a 10k mod.
I remember reading somewhere about a mod that was like the 10k mod but it makes your truck not run at a rough idle but I can't find the thread
. It said what to use and how to do it. Can anyone help me out with this minor dilema?
. It said what to use and how to do it. Can anyone help me out with this minor dilema?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 7
From: colorado
YOU MAY BE TALKING ABOUT THE "CLAMP"...whoops "caps lock", i'm not yelling. try searching "clamp" or "clamp mod"
ps. i do remember people saying they had problems with that mod
ps. i do remember people saying they had problems with that mod
Last edited by wlihntr; Aug 31, 2004 at 02:16 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,005
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I did it on my 95 and saw a difference when the engine is not warmed up yet but very little once warmed up. I put it on a switch in the dash.
I am going to put in a potentiometer instead of the resistor so I can play with it.
Most of what I have seen says it makes more difference on the 99 and up trucks.
Cut and paste of instructions below:
**********************************
***********************************
Hope this helps out.
Dave / Believer45
I am going to put in a potentiometer instead of the resistor so I can play with it.
Most of what I have seen says it makes more difference on the 99 and up trucks.
Cut and paste of instructions below:
**********************************
OK, I've finally come up with a sensor-safe modification of my modified 10K mod.
The problem with the original clamp circuit, a 470ohm resistor and
three diodes in series connected from the ICP sensor output to ground, was potential damage to the sensor due to overloading when it senses
maximum pressure when backing down from full throttle at high RPM. Without access to the sensor specs I thought it better to err on the safe side than take any chance of turning your Ford into F.O.R.D.
I'm basing this redesign on the fact that lots of guys have run the 10K mod probably for years, some with even lower value resistors, and, to my knowledge, no one has reported a sensor problem. The new circuit
actually produces less sensor load than the 10K mod.
The bad news is that we have to cut the wire from the sensor to insert
the series resistor which protects the sensor. The good news is that
sensor-safe clamp (#2) works just as good at idle, not affecting it at all, and measurably better (9.9s) in my 0-60 tests. (9.9s is the same time my SCMT ran on +70 HP). Note that programmers and chips can also change automatic transmission shift schedules, my circuit can't.
Stock ------ 12.6s (2WD)
Stock ------ 13.1s
10k mod --- 10.6s
Clamp #1 -- 10.1s
Clamp #2 -- 9.9s
Parts list, as available at Radio Shack:
1 5.6K 1/2W resistor # 271-1125, (could be 1/4W)
1 1.0K 1/4W resistor # 271-1321
3 1N4001 diodes # 276-1101
1 pkg heat-shrink tubing # 278-1627
I recommend all connections be done by soldering and heat-shrink tubing be used on all exposed wires. Connect the 1K resistor and the three diodes in series with the banded ends of the diodes in the same direction. (If you made the 470ohm version, replace the 470 with the 1K.)
------ 1K -------->|-------->|-------->|--------
Locate the ICP sensor "output to PCM" wire, it's either BLU/GRN or
BLU/RED.
(If you unlatch the connector from the sensor and look at the
connector, it will be the center pin.) This is the wire you'll be cutting, so I recommend untaping the plastic conduit and pulling the wires out for more working room. If you're neat about it you can make the cut under the conduit for a "who me?" hiding job. Cut the wire and connect the 5.6K resistor in series.
(The resistor does nothing by itself so it can stay in permanently even if you remove the rest of the circuit later.)
Connect the 1K end of the 1K/diodes circuit to the PCM end (not the ICP sensor end) of the 5.6K resistor. Solder.
The banded end of the third diode connects to ground. If you connect it at the sensor, use the GRY/RED wire. (You will not be connecting to the BRN/WHT (5volt) wire.) You may also add a Clamp/Stock switch instead. If so, attach a length of wire to the end diode and run it thru the firewall to an SPST switch in the cab. (I've seen "customer use" wires dead-ended under the dash and hood that could be used.) Connect the other switch terminal to a frame ground under the dash. To find out which position of the switch is ON or OFF, push that pedal under your right foot down and flip the switch.
You'll know!
The installation on this circuit a little more complex, but I guarantee it'll put a smile on your face and keep your ICP sensor happy too!
toptuner
The problem with the original clamp circuit, a 470ohm resistor and
three diodes in series connected from the ICP sensor output to ground, was potential damage to the sensor due to overloading when it senses
maximum pressure when backing down from full throttle at high RPM. Without access to the sensor specs I thought it better to err on the safe side than take any chance of turning your Ford into F.O.R.D.
I'm basing this redesign on the fact that lots of guys have run the 10K mod probably for years, some with even lower value resistors, and, to my knowledge, no one has reported a sensor problem. The new circuit
actually produces less sensor load than the 10K mod.
The bad news is that we have to cut the wire from the sensor to insert
the series resistor which protects the sensor. The good news is that
sensor-safe clamp (#2) works just as good at idle, not affecting it at all, and measurably better (9.9s) in my 0-60 tests. (9.9s is the same time my SCMT ran on +70 HP). Note that programmers and chips can also change automatic transmission shift schedules, my circuit can't.
Stock ------ 12.6s (2WD)
Stock ------ 13.1s
10k mod --- 10.6s
Clamp #1 -- 10.1s
Clamp #2 -- 9.9s
Parts list, as available at Radio Shack:
1 5.6K 1/2W resistor # 271-1125, (could be 1/4W)
1 1.0K 1/4W resistor # 271-1321
3 1N4001 diodes # 276-1101
1 pkg heat-shrink tubing # 278-1627
I recommend all connections be done by soldering and heat-shrink tubing be used on all exposed wires. Connect the 1K resistor and the three diodes in series with the banded ends of the diodes in the same direction. (If you made the 470ohm version, replace the 470 with the 1K.)
------ 1K -------->|-------->|-------->|--------
Locate the ICP sensor "output to PCM" wire, it's either BLU/GRN or
BLU/RED.
(If you unlatch the connector from the sensor and look at the
connector, it will be the center pin.) This is the wire you'll be cutting, so I recommend untaping the plastic conduit and pulling the wires out for more working room. If you're neat about it you can make the cut under the conduit for a "who me?" hiding job. Cut the wire and connect the 5.6K resistor in series.
(The resistor does nothing by itself so it can stay in permanently even if you remove the rest of the circuit later.)
Connect the 1K end of the 1K/diodes circuit to the PCM end (not the ICP sensor end) of the 5.6K resistor. Solder.
The banded end of the third diode connects to ground. If you connect it at the sensor, use the GRY/RED wire. (You will not be connecting to the BRN/WHT (5volt) wire.) You may also add a Clamp/Stock switch instead. If so, attach a length of wire to the end diode and run it thru the firewall to an SPST switch in the cab. (I've seen "customer use" wires dead-ended under the dash and hood that could be used.) Connect the other switch terminal to a frame ground under the dash. To find out which position of the switch is ON or OFF, push that pedal under your right foot down and flip the switch.
You'll know!
The installation on this circuit a little more complex, but I guarantee it'll put a smile on your face and keep your ICP sensor happy too!
toptuner
Hope this helps out.
Dave / Believer45
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Originally Posted by 96ford4x4turbodiesel
hey believer45 how would you compare this to the 10k mod or 5.6k mod worth it or not?
At under $10 including wire and a two switch set it can't hurt to try.
Dave / Believer45
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