Trouble shifting 5 spd
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Trouble shifting 5 spd
Has anyone had any trouble shifting ZF 5 spd transmission, especially into first and reverse after the truck has warmed up. It's like the clutch does not want to release. Could syncronizers be going bad at 115,000 miles? Clutch does not slip and have replaced white bushings and clutch lever at fire wall. Thanks for any help!!!
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Forest Hill, MD
Are you still running the original fluid? If so you may want to drain it and top off with some fresh stuff. I don't believe reverse is syncronized in the 5-speed but I am not sure. At 115,000 you may have some worn syncros but it really depends on how hard you are on the tranny.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
The pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft is siezing up, grabbing the input shaft on the trans. That is why it feels like the clutch is not releasing. The only way to fix that is to remove the transmission. Might as well replace the clutch while it's out.
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
You don't state the year or configuration of your truck - mine is a 95 F250 Power Stroke and two things caused this in mine. First off the plastic bushing that fits inside the eye in the end of the rod that goes into the clutch master cylinder was bad, replacing that took care of 80% of the problem. Second, the shaft that the clutch pedal rides on, mounted under the dash on the firewall, needs rebushed which involves rebuilding the pedal box under the dash. Not something I will be doing real soon, the bushing made it so I can live with it a while.
Ford part number for the bushing on mine is E69Z*7526*A and I would get a couple. List was $7.29 on 4/23/03, cost me $4.02. White plastic, just pry the end of the rod off the lever pin and replace the bushing, snap back on.
Dave / Believer45
Ford part number for the bushing on mine is E69Z*7526*A and I would get a couple. List was $7.29 on 4/23/03, cost me $4.02. White plastic, just pry the end of the rod off the lever pin and replace the bushing, snap back on.
Dave / Believer45
Fleet Owner
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by psdpower
Man they don't call him Kwik for nothing, I didn't even think about that. If the pilot bearing is going out they usually squeal or chirp pretty loud.
Thanks. He was writing classic symtoms. Fixing cars for a living for 22 years and you pick up on a few things.
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Kwick may be ultimately right, but Believer knows about what he speaks.
That goofy $5 plastic bushing will cause all sorts of trouble. I tried making one out of copper for mine. Didn't work very well. Go buy one of the white plastic ones and install it. Takes about 5 minutes, and you might be surprised.
Skipper
That goofy $5 plastic bushing will cause all sorts of trouble. I tried making one out of copper for mine. Didn't work very well. Go buy one of the white plastic ones and install it. Takes about 5 minutes, and you might be surprised.
Skipper
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Fleet Owner
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Kentucky Skipper
Kwick may be ultimately right, but Believer knows about what he speaks.
That goofy $5 plastic bushing will cause all sorts of trouble. I tried making one out of copper for mine. Didn't work very well. Go buy one of the white plastic ones and install it. Takes about 5 minutes, and you might be surprised.
Skipper
That goofy $5 plastic bushing will cause all sorts of trouble. I tried making one out of copper for mine. Didn't work very well. Go buy one of the white plastic ones and install it. Takes about 5 minutes, and you might be surprised.
Skipper
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Thanks for all of the help. I started replacing the white bushings at around 90,000 miles. They would last 3000 miles or so. Found out that the lever/arm that bushing fits on was really worn out. Replaced it, now I think the bushing problem is solved. Whats, funny about this problem, the truck shifts really well cold, then gets hard to get in gear. I'm the original owner and only driver. I've replaced fluid every 50,000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic. Forgot, the truck is a '97. I just started driving it again after sitting for two years. I started it every month, but did not have tags and could not drive it. If the pilot bearing is frozen, would it be making noise. There is no noise when the clutch is out, or in. Thanks again for all of the help. Also, if I do have to drop the transmission, are there any improved aftermarket clutch/pressure plate kits that you would recommend?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Buckeroo, the more collaboration that goes on here the more I am convinced that your pilot bearing is going out. In my experience they always work better when cold. Get the engine fully warmed up, crankshaft nice and hot, transferring it's heat to the pilot bearing and it will start to bind up. And not necessarily making any noise. A good way to tell is to turn off the motor, depress the clutch and try and shift. If it works just fine, go ahead and put it into gear and start the motor. If it's the pilot bearing it will start acting up again. A real good sign for the pilot bearing is sometimes it will be ok and then the next minute will be trouble again.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Oh and pony up the cash for one of those LUK single mass flywheel/clutch conversions. I hear that they very good and it does away with that problematic dual mass flywheel. Get a new throw out bearing carrier too.
Posting Guru
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Kwikkordead, as more information comes to light I see the pilot bearing on the horizon as well, although you are experienced enough not to need my backup. I just thought a quick/cheap try was worth the effort.
Synchronizers can cause a similar problem but they get better as they warm up not worse. Mine is at this point. I have a transmission in the tool shed to install when I get the time, will do the LUK conversion and a downpipe at the same time. My clutch only has 74,000 miles on it but is a factory style and I want to get rid of the dual mass. I found out about the LUK two weeks AFTER I replaced mine - bummer. Could have saved $1000 and had a better clutch to boot. All this is to agree with doing the clutch again while you have it apart - I am doing mine that way.
Dave / Believer45
Synchronizers can cause a similar problem but they get better as they warm up not worse. Mine is at this point. I have a transmission in the tool shed to install when I get the time, will do the LUK conversion and a downpipe at the same time. My clutch only has 74,000 miles on it but is a factory style and I want to get rid of the dual mass. I found out about the LUK two weeks AFTER I replaced mine - bummer. Could have saved $1000 and had a better clutch to boot. All this is to agree with doing the clutch again while you have it apart - I am doing mine that way.
Dave / Believer45
Posting Guru
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Did it make your pedal have a lot of free play? Just wondering what the symptoms were.
Dave / Believer45
