I have inherited my grandfathers old 1965 f100. Its been in the family longer than i have and i really love working on it. Having trouble finding info on it though since its not the most popular model. Anyone know the original paint colors for that model? Mine is kinda a light blue, almost like turquoise or something. Thanks for any help.

 

Welcome to FTE!
Here's a quick link to the correct board for your truck:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...splay.php?f=40
Every one of your questions will be answered by the gurus there.
Enjoy!
AL.

 

Welcome to FTE and the world of these great trucks we call "slicks".
Here's a link that should help answer a lot of your questions...colors and a VIN decoder.
Dane's tech page for 61-66 trucks
Also, the search function here at FTE works very well, don't forget to try it first as a lot of your probable newbie questions have already been answered.

 

Just currious to know why you feel it's not the most popular model? I would bet you will find it's just the opposite

Welcome aboard! --Mike

 

Only Reason I say not the most popular is it seems a little harder to get parts for than say the 53-56. Personally I wouldnt trade my old 65 for any other car in the world.

 

Post the entire warranty plate information, and we can decode it all for you - including the paint codes.

 

Thanks for that, but i just found it on the link from above. Looks like its called medium blue with a wimbledon white top. Thanks for your help.

 

There's alot more parts out there than you think! There's more and more being repo'ed every day in the catalogs from This site's store, Dennis Carpenter, LMC trucks, Sacremento Vintage Ford and many more.

Barry

 

Long as we're on the subject, anyone know where someone could find a new intake and exhaust manifold for an original 240? Like i said this truck belonged to my grandfather and its important to me to try to keep it like he had it. I just got the original motor completely rebuilt, but this old manifold has seen better days.

 

To the best of my knowledge you should be able to use either a 240 or even early model 300cid intake and exhaust manifolds as well; Where I live the local salvage yard is best for original style.
also check the above mention companies for parts as well.I also recommned Mac's Auto parts as a great resource as well.........
Mitch

 

Thanks for your help. I got her running with the manifold i have, but it leaks pretty bad. I am combing these websites as well as junkyards for a new one. Its been a while since she's been up and running. The old three on the tree is giving me a hard time but it sure is fun to drive!!!!

 

Macs is awesome!! found both of my manifolds brand new. Thanks for that tip, i've been looking for those for a long time.

 

Amoung the many things you will learn. The 1965 F100 has the power train of the later 67-72 and beyond trucks. You didn't even need MAC's for those parts. Likely you can get them for less from Autozone or where ever for even less.

The only hard thing to find for a 65 F100 is sheet metal. Other than that, most parts are very easy to find. The front suspension is the same till 1978, as is the steering box (manual at least). If you are into a power steering upgrade, there will be lots of threads to that effect as well.

I will admit, there are more rod parts (like brake kits etc) for the earlier trucks. But that's the beauty of a 65/66 -- you have a vintage looking truck with a quite "modern" twin Ibeam suspension, an upgradeable brake setup, and a 240 that is quite durable and can accept any mods that a 300 uses for some extra oomph if you so desire.

As an FYI, the original Autolite carb is reputed to be pretty poor. Mine ran OK, but I got much better performance and economy from the later Carter YF. It a bolt up, though the manual choke cable clamp may need a little modifying. And an upgrade of the distributor to a later "non-loadomatic" will be needed with the carb upgrade. But that's a good idea too, along with a Pertronix or duraspark.

Enjoy -- you have a great truck.

 

PRB01,
When you install that manifold use either no gasket at all so it's direct metal to metal or use an OEM steel shim style gasket for the engine.

Using Aftermarket, composition filled, steel covered, or composition type gaskets interrupts heat transfer from exhaust manifold to cylinderhead where coolant flow can disperse, or carry it away, reducing internal heat build up in cast Iron of the manifolds.

The culprit is the composition. It acts as an insulator stopping the heat transfer. Net end result is CI Manifilds crack where the greatest concentration of heat/ mass occurs.
FoMoCo issued several TSBs on this problem in the 60s & 70s. . . .

I usually have the cyl head(S) & manifolds planed [if used] and for-go using a gasket I also use A&N HiTensile Studs w/ Brass or stainless steel nuts, instead of bolts on my exhaust manifolds. I haven't broken a manifold in 40 years!
my $.02 on Manifolds

FBp

 

Thanks for that advice, when i get my new manifold ill use it. years ago, my grandpa let some guy work on the old truck, and when we got it back, he had broken all the ears off the manifold where the bolt holes go. also, he seems to have broken one of the studs that hold the exhaust to the intake and tried to fix it with jb weld!! As for my carburetor, the original one died years ago. The fuel inlet got stripped out and instead of trying to fix it, i just got a later model holley. I still have the old one, but thats one thing i dont mind not having original. Only thing im still lookin for is a dipstick. Cant for the life of me find one. Im thinking i may just have to make one. thanks again for your advice. by the way, anyone ever rebuild your own 3 speed column?