This is kind of related to my other recent thread "Cardboard Headliner Problem," because now the headliner is off. Maybe stars fall on Alabama, but rust flecks smile down on me. Anyway, I was in the home improvement big box today and happened onto some heating duct wrap, which is a self-stick foil-backed roll of material about 1/4" thick, and is designed to keep the heat in heating ducts as it travels from the furnace to the rooms of the house. With a big rush of brains to the head, I'm thinking this might be suitable for the under roof of my truck cab. It runs about $1 a square foot. Has anyone tried this stuff? Think it would stay stuck in place on a hot day? Alternatives?

 

LB, The foil would go to the top if installed as designed.

John

 

Not sure I understand the premise. I'm thinking that the material's dead air space is insulating regardless whether the material is applied outside, inside or flip-flopped on either surface. Also, with the foil surface facing the interior of the cab, is it reflecting heat whether or not there's a fabric-covered cardboard headliner intervening, thus retaining cab warmth in winter?

 

I don't know about being able to explain it, but I do know that the foil is always supposed to be towards the "outside".

I bought some of the usual insulation, comes in like a 48x72 role. One side is basically ground up old clothes, the other a foil that has some re-inforcement in it.

I too had the headliner out, and I decided that I ought to put some insulation up there. So I cut out some strips, about 18 wide (better measure yourself) and glued them up with spray on contact adhesive. The proper stuff that everyone recomends.

Well let me tell you -- don't do this!!! First, the adhesive will only get MOSTLY on the underneath side of cab, with considerable overspray on the dash, seats, steering wheel etc. Then, at least in my case, on the first hot sunny day, the darn stuff fell off! Luckily, I had NOT put the new headliner in, so I saw the problem.

Solution -- REAL contact cement. The stuff you apply with a brush. I had the remnants of the spray on to hold it in place, but you might want to use a couple strips of double sided tape for positioning. Then you do half at a time, pullingit down, and applying the contact cement to the backside (foil) of the insulation, and the underside of the cab. Let it dry, like it says, then gradually work it back out from the middle. Get all the air bubbles out with a wall paper roller or the like.

When working with real contact cement, you will have no second chances, and it will NOT fall off. That's why you must position the insulation carefully in advance.

I would not trust the pre-applied adhesive -- it will probably fall off eventually, then you'll have it weighing down your headliner, you'll ahve to remove the headliner, bugger it up etc.

 

Assume as others, moisture in cab an issue in winter. Decided to avoid composit backed insulation because of the moisture issue. Came across article about product made by 3m called Thinsulate Acoutic Insulation. Comes is different grades and reportedly has the heat, sound, and moisture resistant qualities that appear ideal for headliner applications. Understand auto industry has been using for that purpose but have not been able to locate thru local dealer. Not sure if available to consumer. Has anyone used, and or found a distributor? Would like to try it out this coming winter.

 

Suggest finding a 3M product with an 800 number and calling them about availability. Maybe there's a 3M website with a lead to the information? Good luck; I'd like to know more about this stuff, too.

 

After posting decided to email them and will update when get a response. Also found some info on their web page. Ran search on the 3m site under 'moisture insulation' .

 

Hey Dave,

This site sells it by the square foot. From what I found on the 3M site...you gotta buy a case.

 

I have visited both the orange and blue big box stores looking for the above mentioned insulation unsuccessfully.

I did find a 2" foil backed fiberglass duct insulation 12" wide and 15' long. I need a starter blanket so I got a roll of that.

I have had another starter failure and should have done this a couple years back.

John

 

Thanks for the info. Looks like there is no minimum customer can order. Intend to email and request sample of material, color selection, and confirm if there is a minimum.

 

watching americian hot rod on tv last night they used somthing like this on the aluminimum tub car looked to have foil on both sides.

 

ok its a product called ( Dynamat ) they have a web sight just serch the name.

 

Not sure if same but used product referred to as dynamat that comes in 12"X12" sheets with adhesive backing. Have seen them in Eastwood catalog, imagine if you go to their web site should be able to get info on them. If same, used them inside the door panels. Trying it out for insulation and acoustic purposes, not sure how it would work for obsorbing moisture. Probably added few extra pounds to each door. Have couple sheets left over and thought about testing on inside cab roof until decide what to do about the headliner.

dave

Not sure why Eastwood seems to get edited out when making referrence to their catalog.

 

yota's thread re: the dynamat is different than what I was referring to in my previous post and more inline to what may be looking for. Anyhow, certainly got moneys worth out of this thread.

 

Whatever material(s) turn out to be suitable, it occurs to me that an appropriate adhesive might be whatever's used to attach door and trunk rubber moldings. For sure it will adhere to metal and withstand heat of the sun. I don't know what it is, a kind of contact adhesive I suppose.

Incidentally, as to insulation in general, house insulation is always installed with vapor barrier (foil) to the warm, i.e., inside of the house. Don't know if this has any relevance to the automotive situation, but I'd welcome education.