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I used Dynamat in my whole cab including inside doors, under headliner on roof, behind gas tank, and under dash wherever I could stick it. It really stops road noise and doors sound like a new truck when slammed. It cost about $80 for entire cab, but it is well worth it. I had my truck in sun many days and it never fell. Just make sure you clean wherever you stick it well with paint thinner or alcohol so it sticks well.
There are many brands of sound deadening material out there, Dynamat is the most expensive, but they are all about the same quality wise. I got some stuff at Lowe's called "Peal-n-Seal" it's asphalt/tar based product with the foil on one side. It's original purpose it patching gutters. It comes in a 12" roll and cost about $20, it already has a hell of an adhesive on it. Because it's so cheap I ended up using 3 rolls and putting three layers on the floors, roof and rear wall of my "off-brand" truck. It made a hell of a big differance on the highway.
There are many alternatives to Dyanamat that are just as good if not better and much cheaper. Check out these:
http://www.raamaudio.com/products.htm I personally know Rick McCallum, the owner of Raamat. Simply cant find a better guy to deal with. Best customer service bar none. His raamatt60 is 60 mils think and is way better than Dynomat and much cheaper. Dynamat Extreme is the comparable product but its way to expensive.
Book marked this thread. Lot of great referrals. Interested in a moisture barrier type insulation for headliner. The paint on material peaked my interest, one of the few products, so far, to mention moisture barrier feature. Coat of that, with sheet of the inexpensive insulation, none composit fabric, should be what am looking for. Now have to figure out what to do about a headliner, have the original cardboard and considering something different. May come in handy for a pattern.
Last edited by daveengelson; Sep 2, 2004 at 09:54 AM.
Hi Dave. Regarding a headliner plan: You and I seem to be at about the same stage on this. Yesterday I went to my local salvage yard and got the roof bows from a '65 and a '66. Idea is to put one forward and one aft of the existing centrally-mounted bow, thus providing better and same-level anchor points front-to-back for whatever ends up forming the base for the headliner. Also, with 3 bows, they can be tied together fore-and-aft to vastly improve rigidity and strength. I was going to make bows from wood, but why re-invent? Also, I'm thinking of bonding wood strips to the metal bows if neeeded to serve as screw anchor points for the whatever headliner. Incidentally, people I've talked with about the foam-bonded headliner cloths available from upholstery shops are skeptical about long-term adherence of the foam backing. Also, my experience with foam is that it can deteriorate fairly rapidly over a few years, losing resiliency. I'm more interested in a non-foam-bonded cloth material. Maybe I'll go with a heavy flannel. Plaid might be interesting and different. You read it here first!
Lil Bro-like the idea of the additional hangers. Not sure if referring to the wire type hangers/bows used in headliners on early model vehicles. The seams for the bows are sewn in the headliner keeping material uniformly spaced and taunt. If simular, wonder if sewing seams would eliminate need to use wooden supports. Have an ol car with this type headliner. Make sure bows are well coated, or use something simular to the plastic tubing used oil pressure gauge to ensure rust does not eventually bleed into material. Anyhow, intend to make decision about headliner soon but was given another contact who intend to meet with in next few days. If informative will post.
I know what you're referring to, the wire-type bows in cars of the 40s and 50s. But no, I'm using the sheetmetal bows, same as the stock one in the overhead of my '66. This should make the transition from roof panel to rear cab panel easier, sturdier and better looking. I have 3-point seat belts, so the headliner plan must deal with those mountings in the rear quarter panels. The wire-type bows with taut headliner cloth look really good when professionally done, but to my taste they're more appropriate to a car than a truck. In the same way, I prefer vinyl seatcovers to cloth, steelies to mags, and rubber mats to carpet. My inclination at this time is to use my original carboard headliner, but re-surfaced in some way. A roof mount radio may be in the plan too, as I hesitate to chop a hole in my uncut dash, but need a place to put an original AM radio.
That Trooper surround makes a nice enclosure. My truck did have a motorola hung under the dash when I bought it, but after whacking it a few times with the big ol floor shifter I saved its life and unhung it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.