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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Autolite 2100 2bbl idle problem

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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 09:45 AM
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Autolite 2100 2bbl idle problem

Help!
I cannot get this thing to idle in gear. Th carb was replaced and I believe the dashpot or carb is incorrect. 1970 f100 390 auto. Can anyone explain the dashpot, setup or supply a picture? Ive replaced ignition, all vaccum lines, and it won't idle when put in gear.
Reccomendations?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 10:28 AM
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Hi Rich! Did it die with the old carb. on it? What is the idle speed in park? Is the idle speed steady or does it "hunt"? Is it a big drop in idle speed from park to drive? Trying to rule out a vacuum leak first.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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I got the truck with this carb on it. I rebuilt it because it leaked. It had a bad Brake booster which I replaced and really thought would fix the problem. I have idle speed set at 800 rpm (i think). runs smooth of idle and strong. Put into gear it feels like it drops a cylinder and idles rough. Also noticed when messing with the mixture screws I can crank down the right one with no change in idle speed and If remember that should not happen. correct?
it does fluctuate in park a little. I have sprayed carb cleaner everywhere looking for vacumm leaks with none found. ??????????????
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 10:52 AM
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Which mixture screw is it, the drivers side or passenger (sorry I have to ask). It does sound like a vacuum leak.

Bubba explains the dashpot here:

http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250...b/carb02a.html
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 10:59 AM
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drivers side, ask all you want........and I agree it sounds like a vaccum leak to me also I just cant find it................
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 11:22 AM
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Try wiggling the throttle shaft while it's running or spray some carb. cleaner on the driver's side right where the throttle shaft goes into the carb. Seeing if the shaft and bushing are worn and that's where the leak is. Usually that's the side that wears out due to the force of the throttle level and return spring plus the mixture screw on that side does not work. Also spray at the base of the carb. where it mates to the manifold.

If that gets you nowhere, plug your PCV and see if it idles any better.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 11:45 AM
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thx, I will give it a shot tonite and let you know>
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 08:01 AM
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ok, I did the above, and still no sign of a vaccum leak. Looks to me like the plate has been re-bushed, its real tight.
But I did block off the PCV nad the idle seemed to smooth out and not surge as much.
The mixture screws seem to be more responsive also. Does this mean bad pcv valve?
Of course now I have a high end miss..........*&**&*&*
Someone else recommended that the pcv/coolant plate between carb and manifold warps.......can I just reroute the hoses and remove the plate, just a smog thing is it not?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 08:54 AM
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
""Of course now I have a high end miss..........*&**&*&*""quote

What size spark plug wires are you running. I had a high end miss that was driving me nuts. I went from 7mm to 8.5mm plug wires and it fixed it. Just throwing that out there.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 09:11 AM
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ya know, thats the only part of the ignition system I have not replaced.....
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 08:53 PM
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From: nevada
All ignition parts on a 30 yr old truck should be replaced. They are cheap parts, that someday one of them will fail and you will be stuck. Trucks like mine (72) are using very old technology, (points, simple coil, very few wires). So it makes for an easy maintenance job.
 
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