Finally did the CCV mod.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
This is how I would do it. I would get a piece of pipe somewhere that is the right diameter for the job and cut it at an acute angle at one end. Then cut out of the exhaust pipe downstream of the muffler a wide oval shape so that it would accept the piece of pipe in like manner according to the picture. It would be oriented in the exhaust stream at that angle to emulate a header collector on a gas engine and serve as a pseudo extractor using exhaust velocity.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Elverson, PA
Kwickordead - that's about what I was thinking about doing too. It sounds good but I wasn't sure if it would actually work. I was afraid it would still be pressure fighting to get back into the CCV hose which we don't want. Now that I've got stacks I was thinking about doing something like the picture you have above, into the exhaust after my splitter T to avoid all the exhaust pressure???
I wanna to something 'cause I'm still not wild about the oil fog wafting out from under my truck as it is now.....
Out of curiosity - and not to be dumb - what can happen if you would have pressure feeding into the CCV instead of it venting??
I wanna to something 'cause I'm still not wild about the oil fog wafting out from under my truck as it is now.....
Out of curiosity - and not to be dumb - what can happen if you would have pressure feeding into the CCV instead of it venting??
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by CAT_man_963
Kwickordead - that's about what I was thinking about doing too. It sounds good but I wasn't sure if it would actually work. I was afraid it would still be pressure fighting to get back into the CCV hose which we don't want. Now that I've got stacks I was thinking about doing something like the picture you have above, into the exhaust after my splitter T to avoid all the exhaust pressure???
I wanna to something 'cause I'm still not wild about the oil fog wafting out from under my truck as it is now.....
Out of curiosity - and not to be dumb - what can happen if you would have pressure feeding into the CCV instead of it venting??
I wanna to something 'cause I'm still not wild about the oil fog wafting out from under my truck as it is now.....
Out of curiosity - and not to be dumb - what can happen if you would have pressure feeding into the CCV instead of it venting??
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Elverson, PA
Ahh - I see. So I guess I'd know pretty quick if I screwed up with the "into the exhaust" idea?? 
Thanks Kwik!
I think I might try something like your picture on one side of my stacks. When I have it rigged up - then see if there's any pressure coming back out of the pipe - before I hook up the CCV hose. In my thinking (and hoping) - like you said - I think it would kindof create a vaccum of sorts.
Thanks Kwik!I think I might try something like your picture on one side of my stacks. When I have it rigged up - then see if there's any pressure coming back out of the pipe - before I hook up the CCV hose. In my thinking (and hoping) - like you said - I think it would kindof create a vaccum of sorts.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 466
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From: Fillmore Ca
You guys have the right idea but you have to have a check valve on your pipe you weld in the exhaust. The purpose of the valve is to stop unwanted pressure from going back up the pipe at low engine speeds. You need to put the pipe in like in the drawing but use a 1/2" threaded nipple about 6" long. The valve you need is a check valve used on the air injection pipes on a gasser. I use one for a big block motor home because they have 1/2" pipe thread so it screws right on and the 3/4" hose fits fight on the other end.
You do not get high CC pressures with this system because as the exhaust flows past the pipe you put in it causes a low pressure area at the end thus making it a very effective CC vent. This system is used on all types of motor sports that run a lot harder than we do for a lot longer period in time at a lot higher rpm's.
GENE
You do not get high CC pressures with this system because as the exhaust flows past the pipe you put in it causes a low pressure area at the end thus making it a very effective CC vent. This system is used on all types of motor sports that run a lot harder than we do for a lot longer period in time at a lot higher rpm's.
GENE
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by WeWeld
You guys have the right idea but you have to have a check valve on your pipe you weld in the exhaust. The purpose of the valve is to stop unwanted pressure from going back up the pipe at low engine speeds. You need to put the pipe in like in the drawing but use a 1/2" threaded nipple about 6" long. The valve you need is a check valve used on the air injection pipes on a gasser. I use one for a big block motor home because they have 1/2" pipe thread so it screws right on and the 3/4" hose fits fight on the other end.
You do not get high CC pressures with this system because as the exhaust flows past the pipe you put in it causes a low pressure area at the end thus making it a very effective CC vent. This system is used on all types of motor sports that run a lot harder than we do for a lot longer period in time at a lot higher rpm's.
GENE
You do not get high CC pressures with this system because as the exhaust flows past the pipe you put in it causes a low pressure area at the end thus making it a very effective CC vent. This system is used on all types of motor sports that run a lot harder than we do for a lot longer period in time at a lot higher rpm's.
GENE
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Elverson, PA
Originally Posted by WeWeld
You guys have the right idea but you have to have a check valve on your pipe you weld in the exhaust. The purpose of the valve is to stop unwanted pressure from going back up the pipe at low engine speeds. You need to put the pipe in like in the drawing but use a 1/2" threaded nipple about 6" long. The valve you need is a check valve used on the air injection pipes on a gasser. I use one for a big block motor home because they have 1/2" pipe thread so it screws right on and the 3/4" hose fits fight on the other end.
You do not get high CC pressures with this system because as the exhaust flows past the pipe you put in it causes a low pressure area at the end thus making it a very effective CC vent. This system is used on all types of motor sports that run a lot harder than we do for a lot longer period in time at a lot higher rpm's.
GENE
You do not get high CC pressures with this system because as the exhaust flows past the pipe you put in it causes a low pressure area at the end thus making it a very effective CC vent. This system is used on all types of motor sports that run a lot harder than we do for a lot longer period in time at a lot higher rpm's.
GENE
Thanks Gene, is this valve something you can pick up new at a parts store?? If so what is it that I'd ask for?? I actually started mocking it up already on a spare 4" pipe I had laying around the shop from doing my stacks, but it sounds like you definitely need the valve.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
From: Fillmore Ca
The valve you need is available at most all parts stores.
Tell them you need a Air Check Valve for a 1985 Chebby 454 pickup it is the valve used on the air injection rails on the exhaust manifolds , it stops the exhaust gases from entering the air pump.
The valve is needed to stop all exhaust gases from entering the CC which makes it a positive crankcase evacuation system. Putting the pipe behind the muffler makes the draw very long and very weak.
Hope this helps
GENE
Tell them you need a Air Check Valve for a 1985 Chebby 454 pickup it is the valve used on the air injection rails on the exhaust manifolds , it stops the exhaust gases from entering the air pump.
The valve is needed to stop all exhaust gases from entering the CC which makes it a positive crankcase evacuation system. Putting the pipe behind the muffler makes the draw very long and very weak.
Hope this helps
GENE
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 938
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by HeatStroked
And, 20% less air intake restriction.........
At first I thought, Screw the ccv mod why bother.But then I saw your post and it must mean more power!
If it means more power then ill do it. By the way I like your avatar.
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,362
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, NC
Stupid question...
Is it totally neccessary to have vacuum pulling on the CCV line at all times? Could you just run a plain line to the underchassis of the vehicle (to allow it to vent into the atmosphere) or does it have to have vacuum to help evacuate the gasses?
Is it totally neccessary to have vacuum pulling on the CCV line at all times? Could you just run a plain line to the underchassis of the vehicle (to allow it to vent into the atmosphere) or does it have to have vacuum to help evacuate the gasses?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by PSD 60L Fx4
Stupid question...
Is it totally neccessary to have vacuum pulling on the CCV line at all times? Could you just run a plain line to the underchassis of the vehicle (to allow it to vent into the atmosphere) or does it have to have vacuum to help evacuate the gasses?
Is it totally neccessary to have vacuum pulling on the CCV line at all times? Could you just run a plain line to the underchassis of the vehicle (to allow it to vent into the atmosphere) or does it have to have vacuum to help evacuate the gasses?
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,362
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, NC
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Most CCV mods are open vented under the chassis. And they work great. That's the way mine is. The issue in this thread is about safely connecting it to the exhaust system so it won't vent that oily smoke from under the truck while you are sitting at a light idleing.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by PSD 60L Fx4
Alright, thank you. We are working on this over in the 6.0 forum; check my gallery for some pics if you like. I am working on a writeup now...
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,362
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, NC
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
That is one MELTED engine.
Once I dig up a good deal on a stripped block, I can begin getting the rest of it back in operable condition and prepped for the twin turbo setup sometime in the next year to year and a half...
Hopefully I can keep the present engine alive long enough to keep the truck moving for that amount of time...
With the EGR disconnected, and now the crankcase ventilation dumping its crud elsewhere, it should at least operate cleanly...I'm pretty sure though, that I could set a record-breaking failure for both tailpipe and evaporative emmissions testing now
I use about 4 times the recommended amout of power service, too, so my injectors should last a WHILE in this motor...Maybe the tips of these won't melt off
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,773
Likes: 95
From: Phoenix, AZ
The CCV venting into the exhaust has been done by several PSD owners and it does work. You just have to find a spot to tap and weld into your exhaust, near the exhaust tip and try not to make it very obvious from behind.
I've seen pix of this type of venting and it seems that the hassle isn't worth it to me. I'll let mine wiff a few puffs every now and then. Isn't that what diesel's do? hehehe
To each their own, I guess.
I've seen pix of this type of venting and it seems that the hassle isn't worth it to me. I'll let mine wiff a few puffs every now and then. Isn't that what diesel's do? hehehe
To each their own, I guess.