Air Conditioning problems

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Aug 21, 2004 | 05:12 PM

#16

Librac23

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Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 51

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From: Mason Wi.

when I jumped the switch, yes it stayed on, same as when I jumped from the batt. to the electric clutch connector

Aug 21, 2004 | 05:30 PM

#17

TigerDan

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Joined: May 2004

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From: The hills of No. Calif.

If you jumpped the pressure switch and the compressor stayed on, but you are getting a pressure of 45 psi at the low side, you probably have too much pressure, which will also kick off the compressor in order to keep from blowing out a hose or seals...or the compressor itself. You really need to get some high side readings, that will tell us more. To do that, you need a full A/C gauge set, not just the little low side gauge. Maybe a trip to a shop is in order. Here is a link to an A/C forum that has helped me a lot. -TD

http://www.ackits.com/forum/categori...id=2&zb=622553

Aug 21, 2004 | 05:41 PM

#18

Librac23

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Joined: Aug 2004

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From: Mason Wi.

Ac Prblms

thanks for the link,

The can that I used..obviously had the low side gauge...45psi is the max on its little "chart" they have to let you know if its full or over..or even dangerously over. @ first I had it in the middle of this little chart...about 30...nothing. put more in..to about 40..still...nothing...@ about 43-48 psi...the clutch for the AC kicked on...and it started to cycle..but it didnt get cold.

and when it did cycle...it was cycling the system rather quickly

I dont know...I think I will just leave it for now..and deal with it next summer

Aug 22, 2004 | 08:57 AM

#19

ol yeller

Elder User

Joined: Nov 2003

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it will cycle

it'll do that until it maintains the pressure. urs should take about 3 cans. it'll tell you under the hood in most cases. son's 89 took 3 1/2 too blow cold.

Aug 24, 2004 | 05:28 AM

#20

Librac23

Junior User

Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 51

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From: Mason Wi.

Ac Cycles but now leaks down

It cycles, but now I think I have a very slow leak. Cause now..it wouldnt kick on till I added more...

I guess I will try and change the hoses out and the intercooler to see if that helps fix the leak..and I will purchase some more new O-rings as well

whats the best way to lube O-rings for ac units? some lite 3-in one oil?

Librac23

Aug 24, 2004 | 05:30 AM

#21

Librac23

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Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 51

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From: Mason Wi.

Info under hood

3.5 cans you say?....Hmmmm will have to check into that...and where under the hood will it tell me?

Aug 24, 2004 | 09:50 AM

#22

TigerDan

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Joined: May 2004

Posts: 12,170

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From: The hills of No. Calif.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Librac23

It cycles, but now I think I have a very slow leak. Cause now..it wouldnt kick on till I added more...
I guess I will try and change the hoses out and the intercooler to see if that helps fix the leak..and I will purchase some more new O-rings as well
whats the best way to lube O-rings for ac units? some lite 3-in one oil?
Librac23

The A/C forum that I posted the link to has a very good online store for A/C parts, they recommend, and I tried and liked, a product called Nylog O-ring lube that is made for A/C. When you replace your O-rings, make sure you get HNBR rubber o-rings, not just regular o-rings. They are usually green, most parts stores carry them. When you open the system, plan on doing your o-rings all at once and then close everything back up again ASAP. When moisture gets into the system, you will have to replace the drier. It is recommended to replace it any time you open the system, but if you do it on a warm, dry day (do you have high humidity in your area?) then you should be able to get away without replacing it. Do one componant at a time, and be careful not to lose any oil out of the system. After you are done, you should take it to an A/C shop and have the system evacuated. They will hook a vacuum pump up to it and pull it down to about 29.9 HG and hold it there for about a 1/2 hour to an hour. This draws moisture and air out of the system and tests for leaks. Then charge it, and if you are lucky it will all work OK. A/C can be touchy. Read all you can in the A/C forums before you start. Good luck! -TD

Aug 25, 2004 | 11:53 PM

#23

Librac23

Junior User

Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 51

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From: Mason Wi.

Leak down Testing

well. I live in North West Minnesota...it can get rather humid....and that all depends on the day. but thats anywhere really...LOL

But thank you for that tidbit...it was quite informative...I forgot about having the system evacuated...and yeah..I am all to familliar with the special green O rings....a little on the spendy side...

But since I only replaced the canister..and Pump orings and didnt even crack open the lines between the cooler and the rest of the system...is it still a good chance there is a leak there? Cause I dont know if the system has ever been opened....cause I bought the truck used...and even then it didnt work

SO...I will have a tech do the evacuation test...I'm quite sure there is a crack somewhere.

Thanks again

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Jul 25, 2010 | 07:49 PM

#24

benbaronaa

New User

Joined: Jul 2010

Posts: 1

Likes: 0

1999 f 250 t diesel

my ac blows hot when i idle or decelerate. sometimes on the open road. how do i fine tune it to stay working more reliably?

Jul 27, 2011 | 12:50 AM

#25

OSSKOBRET433

New User

Joined: May 2009

Posts: 3

Likes: 0

Started truck . turned ac on .came back five min later . ac was blowing hot air , smelled something funny ,turned off motor poped hood saw a faint trail of smoke comming from area around compressor , had wife cycle control on and off while watching clutch and it does not seem to turn very fast. left it alone put a large can of 134 in and it slowly stated coming back. drove home from lake havasu and it worked fairly well , then today on a short trip it started to blow cold then hot then had the funny skunk smell again. any ideas ? 2005 6.0 psd excursion

Last edited by OSSKOBRET433; Jul 27, 2011 at 12:52 AM. Reason: added info